Mark

I just built a snorkel for the disco... I found that Southdown have been selling seconds of their tops and the wing pieces reasonably cheaply on eBlag Southdown eBlag Shop. Personally, I think the Southdown tops are much nicer than the mantec flowerpots... As I happened to have a piece of 2.5" stainless tube in roughly the right shape I used that and some bits of samco hose to join it all up, and it actually looks pretty neat... Cheers Mark

Personally, I like Chris's suggestion of turning up a press fit, or maybe a even shrink fit pin which is crossdrilled. Nice and simple

Having found the fault at about 11 last night, I was not inclined to pull the pipe off in order to get it fixed today, however, the local stealers in Guildford have one on the shelf with my name on it! Should get them swapped over tonight so all is go again for saturday As ever, the problem is not insurmountable, it just always happens at the point of maximum inconvieience... Nah, it was due to it rubbing on the pipe from the reservoir - One of them is wrapped in spriawrap, and the other one isn't - guess which one wore through??? seems like a design fault to me The new one is going to get wrapped in spriawrap too, so they should then just slide over each other.

It would appear that my disco dosn't want to go playing on the plain this weekend as it chose tonight to let it's power steering fluid out. So can someone tell me the part number of the pipe from the power steering pump to the steering box as it seems to have worn through against the pipe from the reservoir... It is a 1991 200TDI disco... unless I can get a new one tomorrow, and fit it tommorrow night then treasure hunting could be difficult.... Grrr... :( Mark

Will, I gave up with trying to drill and tap the shaft on mine, and went down the route of drilling and tapping the outer plate of the brake disc and using 3 button headed stainless M5 screws to hold the circlip on. It isn't the most elegant solution, and there isn't a huge amount for room to do it, but it has worked very well... I havn't done any pictures as it is so similar to the 8274 fix it didn't seem worth it. I believe Lewis had some success tapping the shaft with some uber-expensive unobtaium tap.... Cheers Mark

I will call the pub to confirm, but can you put me down for camping on friday night and for 2x food on saturday and friday nights.. Cheers Mark

Andy, have a word with Rocker, as his 4 door, 4 seater Bobtail is up for sale..... Cheers Mark

One Albright will indeed do the job of all the solenoids in your current pack (either 2 or 4).. Check the Tech Archive for a wiring diagram. hth Mark

Chris, Can I have the last place please? Wasn't sure what the plan was for next weekend, but it now loks like some laning is in order! Will contact the pub today and arrange camping for friday night... Cheers Mark

Well, I appear to have got a pass out, so I will have one of those places if they are still available... will check the other thread.. Cheers Mark

Al, Is the stop switch on an interlock of some sort? Some you have to turn the stop to get them to release fully... just a thought.... Mark

They do indeed twist - you should ask equipe about that....

As has been said, you should be OK, but you will probably need to trim the back corner of the rear wheel arch a touch - known as a camel cut.... Cheers Mark

We welded both the edges of the patch inside the car, and the edges of the hole to the patch inside the arch as well. IMHO this gives a stronger join, and seals the outer edge from the ingress of crud into the join. To be fair it's probably unnecessary... Is there a good reason not to do this? It's how we did all the lap welds on the patches - the floor patch, the side of the footwell, etc..

Since No-one seems to have mentioned it so far.... Make sure you check for the odd bit of rust...

Mark, That looks really neat! Will you hurry up and do a build thread for your truck??? :P Mark

Walro, I remember this topic coming up a while ago - a quick search revealed this post which might be of interest.. hth Mark

I have a khyam too, and I would happily pay the money fif I needed another one...

I have found that the screwfix ones are almost disposable - ie use once and chuck, however, touching them on the bench grinder does liven them up a bit. I think there is a post from a while ao by simonr about a good method of sharpening drills... When I want the hole to come out round, and the correct size I generally use Dormer TiN coated drill bits though. They are reasonably priced (I think I got a set of 1-10mm in 0.5mm increments for about £25) and are just so much nicer to use than the cheap chocolate drill bits. At the other end of the scale though, I bought for my dad a set of cobalt drill bits (again 1-10mm x 0.5) recently as they are supposed to be indestructible. He had tried a couple, and was really pleased with them, hence he wanted the set, but at £100 for the set they aint cheap, and I shall stick to Dormer! As has been already said though, the right speed, some lubrication, and not applying too much pressure when drilling will really help prolong the life of your drills though.... hth Mark

Mr Orange and I were considering it, depends if we get his rangie stuck back together in time really. Got any Duck tape spare Jon?

In the continuing saga of Orange's Rangie, we need to repair the rear inner wing where the wheelarch and the wing have parted company. Due to the slightly complex shape of this we were looking at getting a repair section but I can only seem to find inner wing repair sections for 2 door cars... So, are 4 door ones available? If not, can 2-door ones but cut down (presumably at the c-pillar point..)? Lastly, are the repair sections any good, or should we just get on with it and make some... ta Mark

Having been around this place (and its previous incarnations) for nigh on 7 years, I have had oppotunity to meet a good few members... as a fringe member of the Horsham crew, I know them quite well... I know a fair few of the west country crew, White90, Hobbit, JST, western, etc... and have done some events with Shires club members. Been to Bures and done a few events/laning days with Kent Off Road Club too - a number of which post on here. Have sat around a fire discussing VW's with Fridge at Slindon, parterned up with DarthDicky and Jon for seven siters, and have sold bits or bought stuff from Nige, Turbocharger, Moglite, Jez and any number of other random forumeers.. The best way to meet up is go to one of chris's laning weekends, or a challenge event, or pretty much any of the events advertised in Getting out there.... There is usually a good forum attendance. Strangely, there are a good number of people on here that I have never met in person but have chatted with on PM or whatever, and would still consider them friends. Is that odd? Oh, Orange is my brother too, so I guess I have known him a little while too...

Good Write up Mr Orange... Just a couple of things to add... Firstly, the welding is not the prettiest, but it shold be fairly effective. It was all done using my 175A Butters Mig which I have been really pleased with, and performed faultlessly throughout. Of the 6 settings on my macine, I didn't go above 3, as this is all pretty thin material - the thickest being the 3mm wall of the box section. Used a fair amount of wire and about half a 'Y' sized bottle of gas over the course of 4 days... As has been said, we were going for function over form, and I can vouch for how effective using box section is. There were a lot of patches involved, and some of the pictures above show some slightly dubious patches around the footwells - we are planning to do some more remedial work in this are soonish! :o As well as adding strength, we were also trying to reduce some of solihull's in built mud traps, hence bringing the box section right forward beyond the A-post. This also gave us something good to weld the bottom of the a-post to! The floor patch in the drivers side was added and tacked in place before inserting the box, and has a return on one edge to mimic the rest of the floor that we had removed. It meant we could tie it into the box section a lot more effectively... Unfortunately, along with the rear floor, we also need to add the rear body cross member, both footwells, and both inner wings to the list of areas that need some considerable attention.. More updates at some point no doubt... cheers Mark

D-Rings are fine for recovery, and are sold as such by the likes of David Bowyer. The lifting rings for slinging undeneath a helicopter look like this: ...and are definitely NOT for use as recovery points. Mark

This will be the second time I have posted this picture this evening, but hey... I would say that D-rings are a good option as well. They mean you don't have to go grockling around underneath when you are stuck up to your bumper in mud. I would be inclined to use a bridle with them though.. hth Mark damn you ralph, getting there before me... :P