Mark

Thats fuggin brilliant! I like that a lot Maybe we should give Mr Warne a copy for christmas too....

Not really off the wall Nige, but one of the best solutions IMHO is a Loop made from a piece of 20mm is Bar. It can come through the front surface of the cross member, and be welded rond the hole, but behind that can be 6"+ of Bar welded to the side of the chassis leg. That gives you over 2' of pretty meaty weld holding your recovery loop to the chassis. Not complicated, and it needs some heat to bend the bar, but simple is good... Heres one I did for Orange on the front of his rangie - not the same, but if you welded through the face of the crossmember and then down the sides of the chassis rails... well you get the idea... Cheers Mark ps, I can't claim any kind of credit for any of this idea - but I have read about it a lot...

I would imagine that since the diffs they go into are the same, then there would be no difference in the truetrac either.... I am sure an actual expert will be a long soon though. Cheers Mark

I remember finding those pictures just after I bought the disco... and thinking you had got off lightly! I did a lot of that on mine, but didn't take pictures My rear arches however, are not really a problem, but this is probably cos mine is a 3 door, not a 5 door. Mark

Indeed, don't even go there....

not a problem. What are the files you are attempting to upload?

Yeah, the waffles had plenty of use, but my problem was more to do with driving along the ruts than getting out of them (although that also proved tricky!) No complaints, as it gave me some excellent (and much needed) winching practice. Oh yeah, and we came 11th out of 30, which I was more than happy with! Mark

I would say that the ply will stand up fine to pretty much anything you would do in a workshop. Ally skin seems overkill to me. As Jez says, make a cover or a curtain or something to cover the viewing window though... Mark

Firstly, I would suggest using the classified forum for this, and secondly when you make a new topic or reply to an existing one there is a box below the 'post options' area that allows you to attach files directly. I would suggest this is the easiest way to get pictures into your post. Cheers Mark edited to say that I just noticed your post in the classifieds (doh!) but that typing it all in capitals makes it really difficult to read!

Have you looked a Frosts? They also do a DIY version. Mark

Oooh I almost look like I'm enjoying myself! Did a lot winching through those sort of bits as I couldn't reach the bottom of the ruts, and I seem to be running on slicks! Cheers Mark

Some neat solutions there chaps. I think I will have to go raid the local exhaust place's skip to see what bits of bent pipe I can find! Cheers Mark

Managed to bend the exhaust on the disco on sunday, so I started thinking about removing tha backbox and routing the tailpipe to somewhere less prone to damage. However, I have some questions... 1) Will the centre box be anough to keep the noise down to a sensible level? 2) Will there be any issues with backpressure into the turbo? 3) does anyone have any pics of what they have done to thier disco??? Cheers Mark

Are the bearings OK? Don't know the XD9000 so I don't know if or how you would knacker them... Mark

I didn't get tugged out of that many holes!!! I had to tug my self out of most of them! Mark

I use a solar top up charger which just trickles the battery when it is connected. It works for me, but I have heard that it ages the battery prematurely. Mark

£500 disco's are excellent aren't they :D Mine had already failed the MoT on Sills, but the boot floor isn't MoT'able (as it isn't structural. Still I replaced both sills and boot floor and one inner wing. Check your rear body crossmember and mounting points too... Still, superb value if you can find them! Cheers Mark

Went to the Kent ORC fun punch challenge today, and had an excellent time! The event was designed as a punch safari type thing, with 30 punches which were split into the 15 'Drivable' and 15 'Winchable' and were aimed at all levels of skill and vehicle. After the rain we have had for the last couple of days though, the site was very wet, and very muddy! The site is pretty heavily rutted, which meant we spent quite a lot of time getting caught up our diffs, but it was non-competetive (ish) so people were more than happy to give a helping tug or pull with a winch as and when required. All in a very friendly lot. After my premature exit from the forum punch challenge at Bures, this was my first real opportunity to use the winch in anger, and I was very impressed. We did some long pulls up steep slopes, and through some quagmire that my tyres just wern't touching the bottoms of the ruts in, and it pulled all day without fault. Glad I did the brake modifications to stop the circlip disappearing! We lowered out and winched in for quite a lot of the day, and it behaved faultlessly. Only took a few of photos, but here is a taster: Attacked this backwards, lowered in and winched out: This was the next one, the punch was in the middle of the bridge: My biatch for the day doing whatever it is that they do: I know there are a few KORC people on here, so hello to you chaps, thanks for an excellent event. Cheers Mark

Duck oil is more of a protective oil - ie you spray it onto machinery to stop it rusting, and it has a bit more 'goo' in it to make it stick to metalwork. The best one I have found, and this probably isn't news to anyone, is Plusgas. It comes in liquid and aerosol and seems to be a bit lighter than wd40, so penetrates better. Cheers Mark

Blimey, I thought this was more porn, what with that title, and being in the defender forum....

I believe Bill is on holiday at the moment for a few weeks but a pm from here once he returns will almost certainly put you in contact. Mark

It's like a big powered folder, rather than a guillotine...

I am no expert, but I would have thought that unless your crossmember is also stainless steel, then I would stick to Mild Steel for the recovery points. I would also go for 18 or 20mm diameter bar... cheers Mark

Moved to the Int forum, as this doesn't seem too t&f related. Incidetally, I asked a very similar question about the 3.5 carb to efi swap earier this evening too! Mark

OK, I know very little about V8's, but I have been talking with my brother about the possibility of changing the tired, and terrible sounding 3.5EFI in his rangie. We have seen a couple of carbed V8's and wondered what you needed to do to turn one into an EFI one, given that we have all the EFI stuff already there? So, how hard is it? Is is just a case of swapping the carb inlet manifold for the plenum chamber off the old EFI or are there a whole raft of other small things that also need changing? NB. I have already repeatedly shouted that he should fit a nice 200TDI at him, but to no avail... Cheers Mark