Mark

You should be able to check with a voltmeter. One of the thin wires should be at a constant voltage, and the other should vary with the engine rpm. You want the one with the constant voltage. Mark

I have been thinking about OBA again. I am planning something based on an air con compressor and wondered what sort of size reservoir I should be looking at. I want the OBA setup to run the odd air tool (rattle gun), inflate tyres and air beds, and possibly at some point power an ARB (or 2). I have aquired a couple of very nice stainless air tanks but they are only 2 litres each, so using both would give me 4 litres, but this dosn't really seem enough, so I wondered what everyone else is using... Cheers Mark

tony, it would need to be! It's not the wood rotting that worries me.. Mark (still suffering from disco tin worm)

Rhino liner was the one I was trying to think of, but it does seem kinda spendy - $350 - $500 per application???? I have actually used the protectacote on the parents-in-laws narrowboat, so I don't know why I didn't think of it. Might investigate that further. Plywood lining was my original plan, but I am trying to get away from anything that might hold water since the car leaks like a leaky thing with big holes in! The old floor was pretty much non-existant when I got it, and still had carpet and the rubber matting in which had held the water against the floor. Having watched the torrent that comes in from various places in the bodyshell, I think leaving it free of absobant things is best! Cheers Mark

I need to paint the inside of the disco boot. Usually this would be covered in various layers of matting and carpet, but I have removed these as they just seem to hold water against the metal work. The inside of the boot then, is just metal, and I need to paint the new sections I have let in (ie most of it!). I have seen some of the american sites use special paint for the inside of thier pickups - does anyone know of a similar type of product available here? I guress hammerite would work, but seems to be quite brittle. Loading boxes of kit and various other things that get thrown in the back, whatever I use needs to be pretty tough. Anyine got any suggestions? ta Mark

Another option is the Ashcroft High Ratio transfer box conversion. This leaves your low ratios the same but spreads out your high ratios. It was designed for V8 conversions, but our lightweight had one wih a tweaked 2.25 and 235/85's. Just an option... Cheers Mark

Jez, I have to agree with Les, the finish isn't great - I can still see some brush marks... They would have got much better coverage (splatterage?) with a roller / bigger hands / small firework dropped in the open tin of paint Mark

You could certainly get a couple of Kegs on it, if not full size barrels! Mmmmm... Mark

Toast rack for mansize slices of toast?

cool I'll try them tomorrow! Cheers Mark

It wasn't that bloke from shropshire with the court case trying to prove how carp the freelander is offroad again was it? "See how it is easily stopped by just a little bit of flat mud..." Mark

I already know, so felt it would be unfair to enter! Not that I could anyway cos I can't get hold of a copy of TOR!!!! Mark

Nick (RogueVogue) used a Steering link from a Bedford lorry for the panhard rod on the back of the rogue vogue. I think there should be some pictures of the setup somwhere on this forum, but it certainly looks up to the job. Not sure of bushes or any of the details really, but it might be worth an ask, or at lesat a search for the pictures... Mark found it: Pictures of Nick's rear setup

Wrong Simon (you would be after simonr) but I am sure he would be pleased with the sentiment! Mark

Will be coming up for the friday. If there is a daytime meet that would good... Mark

Not really sure what you are asking, and I am not sure if this is stating the obvious, but you will need to drill the hole and then tap the thread into it. The hole should be the correct tapping drill size for 1/8th BSP which is 11/32" or 8.8 mm. If you are asking why use 1/8th BSP rather than say M10 then 1/8 BSP is the thread on the pipe connectors, and is easy to obtain, so it seems like the logical choice really. Hope that helps (and isn't stating the bleeding obvious...) Mark edited to note that tonk already covered it...

If only the spindle bore wasn't 5/8" id!!! I know of a nice big colchester that I could do it on though - anyone got the appropriate taps? If fact what are the appropriate taps??? Mark

I was poking about today on the web and noticed Simon has put details up of the series X-brake I have to admit that I have had one for a while now on my IIA, testing it out before the full launch, and am very happy with it. I kniow a couple of other guys on here have one of the rare preproduction models, but they are being launched at Billing so everyone can share in the novelty of a series that stays still on a hill! Cheers Mark

Oooh good point. Might I already know who passed the handbrake or would that be someone completely different??? Diff, ta for the pointer I had hunted for them and not found them! Mark

Am after some information on steering bits... 1) How many TRE's of each thread do I need for a D1 (Track Rod & Draglink) - I don't have either the car or the book in front of me so can't go and count! 2) Looking for upgrade options for draglink and track rod. The ones that have been suggested are Danbars and Sumo Bars (seeminlgy equally popular) but several people have mentioned paddocks do some hd steering bits, but I can't find them on thier website - has anyone used them / got an idea on price / know which bit of thier website they are on? 3) is there anyone else that does strengthened Steering components or should I just weld some box section over my currently banana shaped track rod? ta Mark

I would go with about £150 - £200 at the most on the M-type. Why not use an inverter instead? You can then keep the 3phase motor (smoother) and get the speed infinatly variable at the same time. Also means you won't have to change the coolant pump motor. Have a look here: www.homeworkshop.org.uk It is a free calssifieds for model engineering stuff, but there is usually a guy selling second hand inverters for quite sensible money. I bought one off him to run my milling machine, and it works a treat. Cheers Mark

lol, I know that feeleing!

Could you get round the problem by adjusting the steering stops? I know you lose some lock, but that is what I did on mine running 255/75s. Adding spaces could give you issues with the wheel fouling on the bodywork - especially running 255/85s. another option for the same effect would be rims with a different offset. Mark

poo! I already have the throttle pedal one, and just need the brake and clutch ones for the whole set! I'll be quicker next time...

sounds like a nomination to me.