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Mark

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Everything posted by Mark

  1. It would appear that Myself and Nigel (Hybrid from Hell) are now the mods on the Tools and Fab Forum, and Chris (GBMUD) is a mod on the Getting Out There forum. B) Thanks for everyones input, it is appreciated. There is a vacancy in the Military forum if anyone has any suggestions please could you add them to the post in that forum... Cheers Mark
  2. Thought this was a useful reference so now pinned... Mark
  3. I believe the head gasket is known for going on 200s. Mine has done 160k and I strongly suspect the gasket may be gone too. I don't think it is a huge job. Sounds like it is time to give me the SV (non-runner and all, can't be worth much ), and buy a nice TD5 d2 or the like. I have it on good authority that they tow very well - Well graham seems to like it anyway, and we are off to play in my brothers one this weekend... Mark
  4. I take it the cossie V6 is different from the ford 3.0 essex V6? there used to be a conversion for the essex engine to a series gearbox, but I don't think it is still in production. Might be a good place to start though??? Mark
  5. Not sure I like the sound of the vetting but I wouldn't mind a look! It might give me too many ideas on what to do with mine though! Mark
  6. I would agree with Andy generally, but here are my opinions, vaguley in order of preference; Mod the front Bumper untill you get a winch, when you should get the bumper to fit the winch - I didn't and whist I ended up with a decent result, it was a PITA to do! Rocksliders are definatly worthwhile - can't suggest where to get them though, I am in the process of making my own... I think discoparts do some reasonable ones. Rear bumper - defiantly next on my list - again I think I am going to get a discoparts one as it attaches with more than just the two bolts the standard one uses and allows attachement of a decent rear recovery point. I spoke to them, and am planning to get one at billing to save on the postage. I think they are doing a show price too - worth emailing before hand to get your order in though. I have QT slider diff guards, but havn't used the truck in anger since I fitted them. They are not silly expensive (although if you get the eBlag copies they are chaeper still - can't vouch for the quality though) Steering protection is a good idea - I have a bent track rod at the moment! Relocating the steering damper to the front arm (a la defender) would also stop the squished damper problem that I have. There are various schools of thought - uprated bars or big protection plates. I am undecided... A Tank guard is also on my list. The southdown one with the removabble tow hitch I feel is the best choice around at the moment, but it is quite pricey...(~£350 i seem to remember). Springs and shocks - I went the cheap option of using RR HD (red/White) springs all round. I would say there are better setups out there, as they are really too tall for the front, and to nearly tall enough on the back. I added 2" spacers and 2" dropped shock mounts on the back to bring it up to the same level as the front. I am running standard length (koni - so not that cheap) shocks, and am fairly pleased with it so far. I think I need to drop the front shock mounts a bit though... My setup was a cheap(ish) setup using what I had. If I was going to spend money I would probably go for an old man emu setup, probably with 2" lift. I notice you have ATs - is a set of MTs not on your list? I would have thought that would make more difference to off-road ability than anything else, and was certianly the first thing I did on mine (apart form welding the sills and floor back together ) Cheers Mark
  7. That looks superb. Really liking the whole disco trayback thang... Wherabouts are you guys? Someone has put your steering wheel in the wrong place... Mark
  8. At least you can get a car in yours... ... and take it with you wherever you go! Mark
  9. Yep. There are a couple of good write-ups on using aircon pumps for OBA in the tech archive... Mark [must get round to installing mine sometime....]
  10. I would guess there are other issues from a production point tof view that you or I take for granted - Dimensional changes, fettling of holes and threads, and the time and labour required to do that probably adds up to quite a bit more than £100 per vehicle. Plus, as you say, if they lasted forever, why buy a new one....
  11. The zinc will be a different colour to the steel. It is a lighter grey, and the steel is a dark silver colour. You shouln't need too much wire brushing to get through the galve, and it won't hurt the steel too much if you over do it, but stop regularly to check. Don't forget to do both sides of where you are going to weld. Cheers Mark
  12. It is Stephen I would be apologising to....
  13. I like the look of that via ferrata too. Might have to plan some sort of expedition to try that out... Mark
  14. ...Just quoting my sources... Not sure about Nige, but that was the impression I got from his post. Don't get me wrong, I would be happy to see nigel as the mod. Cheers Mark
  15. Well, I am very flattered to be thought of as mod-worthy, and would happily contribute to the forum by being a mod. It is something I have thought about (given the amount of time I spend on here), but wouldn't be so bold as to suggest it myself.. I would agree that specialist knowledge on a particular forum is not necessarily the best qualification but it certainly helps. Level headedness, and time to look what is going on is more important IMHO. Chris on the getting out there forum sounds like a good plan to me. Seemingly all the other nominees for Tools and Fab have withdrawn? I only have a small tool fetish after all... Cheers Mark
  16. Charles, I got one of the Northern tool ones when that thread was first posted. I havn't used it loads, but I have been very pleased with it when I have. For the money, and for someone who isn't using it all day, every day I think it is good value. I don't rate rolson tools that much, but as I said this one is pretty good. Impact sockets - it comes with 4 (including LR wheel nuts - 27mm) but I wouldn't know where to get more from - I already had some imperial ones, but I can't remember where thay came from! eBlag? Cheers Mark
  17. Yep, I have always been under the impresion that it is the tread that must be covered by the wheelarch. The sidewall and/or rim protruding is not an issue. Mark
  18. I keep one in the bottom drawer of my tool box. Perhaps I should add that as as handy hint in the tools and fab. forum.... :P Mark
  19. Alternatly, undo the two plastic wingnuts that hold the unit in place, and remove the whole thing. I found this much easier than trying to change the bulb itself. Mark
  20. I would be inclined to agree with Les, but make sure you use some big spreader plates when mounting the seat to the tub. I would have thought any after market 3-point belt would be fine. I think exmoor trim sell britax ones, but I am sure there are cheaper places to get them. Cheers Mark
  21. I have to admit that I quite like it too. Not sure about the front end - it's a 200, why make it look otherwise? and the towbar is daft (having put all that effort into increasing the departure angle). However, the bobtailing actually looks quite neat. Mark
  22. Well spotted - looks like a useful site! Mark
  23. The Normal (Defender/RR/Disco) X-Eng caliper will happily lock wheels up I would have thought! (From personal experience of just how much torque it will stand up to...) Mark
  24. Whatever you do, Don't use ParcelFarce! I have spent half of today on the trail of an order that was apparently refused by the adressee (my work address) but that never even got near the building! Grrr! </rant>
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