Mark

yep, potting compound is the resin that you set the circuit in to protect it. 2-part epoxy (ie araldite) is sometimes used, but as roger says, it gets hot when curing, which isn't a good idea for soldered things. Mark

I changed the Lighteweight from 24V military spec ignition to a ducellier dizzy and Lumenition (Optronic) ignition - I got the whole lot secondhand (although still new in boxes, etc) reasonably cheaply, so it seemed like a good way forward. The lumenition kit worked faultlessly, for several years and I can only assume still is (Steve M has the car now...). I have to admit I didn't look too hard at the other systems, as this was what was offerd to me, but I was very pleased with it! Mark

Roman, The overdive has a separate filler plug on the top (accessable by removing the panel under the middle seat) which needs to be topped up with EP90. They are notoriously noisy anyway, but it is definalty worth checking the oil! Mark

When I bought mine (disco), I bought a RR one as well and the two were indistinguishable - the only difference is that the RR one is about 3/4" narrower than the disco one. Other than that, they are identical. Cheers Mark

Yep, that is who I got mine from (although with a modification to put the number plate in the middle). They were reasonable and very quick to get it to me. Mark

Cool, thanks for the confirmations guys. best order some TREs now then... Mark

Bought some sumo bars at billing, but I need to order some TRE's. Can anyone tell me if they are threaded as per the factory trackrod - ie one lefthand and one righthand thread, or if they are both righthand threaded? ta Mark

Mo means Si, as in simonr of x-eng. He is at billing at the moment, but it might be worth dopping him an email or a pm. Mark

surely the scrapIRON bin??? Mark

To be fair you have to look twice to realise it's not a land rover, by which time you have waved, got waved back to and passed them! Mark

I have 125' of 12mm Dyneema on my 8074, and I can't fault it. Came from Bowyer at Sodbury, - One note: the sleeving he sells to go on it dosn't fit over the splice, but it seems to be good stuff. Mark

I don't think that the picture in my post is what Nic has broken, i was merely suggesting that this is what he should be fitting! The one in the picture is held on with lots of bolts! The standard bumper only has two M10 bolts holding it on. Mark

Nevermind detailing the undercarriage, update the website - we need pix!!! Mark

As I understand it a lot of thier fabrication is done by a company whose board of directors are common to scrapirons board these days... I am planning to get the discoparts rear bumper at billing, not least because it seems to be the only one that uses more than just the standard 2 M10 bolts to hold it on (see here: Installing a discoparts rear bumper). I have had prompt responses to my emails to them, and they seem nice people. Mark

I am not going to defend scrapiron in anyway shape or form (see my sig...) but I have to admit to having one of their Discovery winch bumpers. I bought it third hand through eBay, but it came from them originally nonetheless, and I am very pleased with it. It dosn't overhang the front like so many others do, and is generally very neat. I have managed to bend it, but that was the driver's fault (not me at the time) not the bumpers fault. If I could have found who they copied the design off, I would have bought it from them, but I have to admit that their winch bumper for discos is OK. I wouldn't rate their suspension, but as has been said, some batches are good, some are bad - which dosn't say much for thier quality control. I plan to buy stuff from discoparts in the future (Mmmm new rear bumper) and not from scrapiron, but I am all for a bit of balance. Mark

My IIA doens't have them on either, and I removed them from the lightweight, and never had an issue with MoTs on either. Mark

Depends on you shockers. Do they have internal bump stops in to stop them destroying themselves on full compression? I would say generally, yes, you should have bumpstops... Mark

I would be inclined to take off the broken straps, and screw the retaining plates back into their location. It is not something you would know about unless you knew Land rovers intimaly, and even so if you have shocks with internal bump stops in, you don't need them anyway. Screwing the plats back in at least stops there being a large clean bit where 'something' has been removed... Mark

Bit too much like a physics lesson for you I would have thought. Pantrey has them all on video from when they were on the first time (and he has the fact sheets too!).... Mark

Time for one of these then nic??? Mark

From a buyers point of view, not knowing the reserve can be a pain. It gives you an idea of the seller has a realistinc idea of what the item is worth - or atleast if you both have the same ide aof waht it is worth From a sellers point of view it does no harm to tell the potential bidder. If they ask you if you will end early for the reserve, you can still say no (it is afterall the minimum you will sell for). I will generally let people know what the reserve is if asked. Some people even add it to the listing, which can be useful. Cheers Mark

Darth, some really good pictures there! I especially like the random 'series one in a field' pictures, and the fact that the 'zuk just looks like a toy in that company! B) Mark

ta will aim for around 9 ish then.

As the title really, anyone know what time day visitors are let in? ta Mark

Nice Find Simon! Does it have it's tailstock with it? You will find you will need it! 3 phase motors are easy to come by, and by running it off an inverter you can have infintly variable speeds - much better than trying to find a huge single phase motor to use with it. Cheers Mark ps - shouldn't this be in tools and fab?