secondjeremy

I was wondering if you were connecting the earth jump lead directly to the engine - if you were it would point to an earthing problem. Its possible that the vehicle isn't charging properly. Alternators tend to charge at about 11 volts when a rectifier diode fails - and while everything works it does so rather slowly (wipers are slow, heater feeble, lights dim, flashers very slow.) Dynamo systems can suffer as well - it may be possible to re-set the regulator but this needs a voltmeter and the detailed instructions. Its also possible that something electrical is staying on - in which disconnecting the battery may prove the point. Have you got a multi-meter? If not I'd recommend buying a cheap one for less than £10 and getting a few voltage readings.

I appreciate that in the event of one circuit failing the pedal shouldn't hit the floor - but when it did happen to me there was a very considerable increase in travel and the pedal was very close. (back brake on a Renault 21 stuck and boiled the fluid I think - as after pouring water over the wheel and leaving it for a bit all went back to normal apparently) My personal opinion is the the PDWA is an expensive and quite useless complication - which curiously doesn't seem to be fitted to foreign cars. (The Renault 21 didn't have one nor have my Citroen ZX's. My BX was rather different - having decent fully powered brakes, probably spoiled by ABS)

So it cranks rapidly when you jump it - where do you connect the earth lead? Is it to the engine - in which case your problem is an earthing one. Otherwise is the thing charging properly? Rough test is do the indicators sound lively when flashing or slow and dead? Much the same with the wipers. After standing overnight a good battery should be about 12.6 volts, average 12.5 and poor 12.4. When running and settled the voltage across the battery should be 14 - 14.4 volts.

You'll have found out anyway as the PDWA won't operate on a slight leakage or weep - and so will only tell you what you've just found out as your foot sinks to the floor. I don't think it actually restricts the fluid flow to the damaged circuit - I can see this as being far more dangerous that a leaky wheel cylinder which still functions reasonably well.

There are 2 seals in the PDWA - which if I recall correctly from my Triumph Stag were in fact simple 'O' rings. I was able to buy a repair kit for that - seem to remember it came from BL rather than a brake supplier. As has been said the later vehicles have 2 outlets only - with the front one going to a 'T' piece. Do you know what size the ball-bearing is under the switch? There is apparently supposed to be one which had disappeared on my S3.

From the sound of it you have the later panel with the flick switches and warning lights in the speedo. The ignition switch should come out when you undo the ring on the front - it has 2 slots in it. The barrell may be retained by a spring loaded pin accessible from the bottom side of its mounting tube. The later panel was always black. The earlier one with the light switch (and generally ignition key except for some diesels)in the middle and warning lights in the panel was always body colour.

The original glowplugs are wired in series with the resistor - and so if one fails the whole system stops working. The warning light is a 6 volt bulb wired across the resistor - and so it actually only glows when the plugs are working rather than when power is supplied. If a plug fails, power stops passing through the circuit - and hence the resistor - which means the light won't come on. If the light won't work, disconnect the earth wire from the front plug and see if there is current available - using a bulb from that terminal and earth. Then work your way back to no 4. (no magic - you can start at no 4 which is probably better and work your way to no 1 - testing each in turn and replacing the wire as you go. If a plug has failed - replace all if they seem to be the same age as they've all operated for about the same time and will fail at about the same time. There are more modern plugs available - which have the advantage they're wired in parallel and will fail one at a time. They may work better but the engine should start well with the original system.

The spacer at the front of the layshaft comes in a number of sizes - and what you're supposed to do is to fit it and do it up and then see if there's a tiny amount of play in the layshaft. If its tight use a smaller one. If you haven't got one you've got a problem but I'd buy the standard one and see what happens. Loss of drive in ALL forward gears cannot be a layshaft problem - as top is simply a clutching of the 2 parts of the mainshaft - so when the layshaft snaps you have top only (and get home using the transfer box!)

Looks like some splines in there - which suggests the centre of the 1st/2nd synchro hub. Is it a diesel? (Just the beginnings of a theory of mine) I had to replace one - pattern part was awful - with the holes for the springs drilled off centre in the flats.

The shafts are the same length on an 86in S1 - with the front shaft being lengthened when the front axle was moved forward 2 in to allow for the longer OHV 2 litre diesel engine (which was the origins of the 2.25 engine we all know and love.) and the wheelbase became 88in.

http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/products.php?cat=255&pg=2

Certainly for the 2.25 you don't need the special tool - and can follow the instructions for the early version of the pump without the mark on the base - ie line up the 'A' mark with the flat end of the circlip inside the pump and the appropriate mark on the flywheel.. When you've done it you'll understand why Rover discontinued this method - as the marks are very difficult to see and the pump drains when the cover is removed. If your pump is properly timed and the thing isn't smoking I'd start by making sure the throttle really is opening fully then the maximum fuel screw (throttle stop). Rover's instructions were to see if blacksmoked at 48 in 3rd - and if it did - shut the screw down till it didn't quite. May be worth checking your electric fuel stop is opening properly.

You have a vacuum pump - its that thing where the injection pump would be on a 2.25. (S3 2.5 diesel have a butterfly valve in the inlet which provides the vacuum when the throttle is shut. They also have a tank reservoir.) The servo itself should hold some vacuum - generally enough for 1 - 3 brake applications. I wonder if there should be a non-return valve somewhere and its been ommitted on the conversion. However even with no vacuum you should have a firm pedal - even if you're not strong enough to apply the brakes.

I agree - sounds like hydraulic. If the servo system is working it should hold vacuum for weeks if undisturbed. Are you now running it with a pump on the engine rather than relying on manifold vacuum?

The top picture shows the bottom of the under seat tool box. There should be another sloping bit which covers the chassis member. Original was plain steel, sometimes with a battery box let into the bottom - so if yours is something else its not original. Early S2's may have had alloy panels. Replacement: http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/023--ns--under-seat-tool-box-20-p.asp The 2 plates are part of the top of the seat box (and I think are shown in the S3 parts book) Sorry its a case of juggling them around till you find out where they come from (or indeed if they are spare) I'd have thought there should be more of them.

http://www.namrick.co.uk/ Also worth looking at some of the regular specialist suppliers - like Blanchards, Craddocks, LR Series and Dunsfold who may list the bolts at good prices. You may be able to work by description but the part no would make life a little quicker.

Have you got an 88 or a 109? 88's were fitted with 600 x 16 crossplies as standard. These are commonly replaced by 205 x 16 tyres whcih are the original Range Rover size. (Usual radial rules apply if changing - not mix on an axle and if you must have 2 of each (get advice from fitter) radials must go on the back. SWB's have a turning circle on normal tyres of about 38ft. 109's have wider rims and were originally fitted with 750 x 16 crossplies. To make life simple there are radials made in the same size which will work fine but you MUST examine the tyres carefully to find out if they are radial or crossply. (As you'll have worked out cross ply are always sized in imperial units (6.00 = 6 in tread width) and radials are usually sized with a metric tread width measurement (205 = just over 8in). LWB's have a turning circle of 48ft. Many 88's have the wider 109 wheels and run on 109 sized tyres. So if its a SWB with standard SWB rims 205 x 16 Range Rover sized tyres will be fine. (rolling radius is very early the same as 600 x 16 and so speedo stays correct. (1536 turns per mile. 7.50's require a LWB speedo with 1408 TPM))

Sometimes the bearing shells have the part number on them - this would give the size. (If you haven't the part book use one of the on-line shops or possibly the Bearmach part finder (download from their site - handy thing as it gives all the numbers for a part))

Sometimes the bearing shells have the part number on them - this would give the size. (If you haven't the part book use one of the on-line shops or possibly the Bearmach part finder (download from their site - handy thing as it gives all the numbers for a part))

If the bearings are tight there's a risk of severe damage on startup - and at other times. I've even heard of shells rotating. You shouldn't need to turn the engine much when fitting it if you get the clutch aligned properly - and if you don't spinning won't help anyway.

The Series 2/2A gearbox has NO synchromesh on 2nd or 1st gear. Series 3 boxes have full synchromesh. If you want to overhaul it the best thing to do is to take it to bits, examine the components and replace whatever is necessary as well as the 3 flat springs in the 3rd/4th synchro unit (they fall out and jam the synchroniser, get in the oil and damage the gear teeth and so on.) You'll probably find that you can obtain good quality bearings (if needed) from specialist bearing suppliers (take your old one in) You need to get the official workshop manual - it'll tell you how to get it to pieces. Have you had a look at the end of the gearstick? Its possible that the end has worn and is slack in the end of the selectors. This may mean that sometimes the selectors don't return to the centre properly and will not allow the gear to be selected.

My cheap and nasty (and excessively noisy) wood cutting saw has some small adjusting screws in and around the hinge mechanism which are used to set the thing accurately. When returning it to a pre-set position (eg vertical)it helps to check there's no dirt or swarf in or around the bolts. Interesting to know presets on expensive ones aren't accurate!

Flap discs are superb for cleaning off after welding. You can grind most of the excess off with a normal disc if you like but the flap disc will help you achieve a really tidy seam as it'll remove the ridge without damaging the job itself. Well worth trying!

Its vital that proper Rover pins are used in the clutch cross shaft. They are very hard and will survive and do the job. Bolts will NOT do - and will quickly shear - which is not necessarily visible until you dismantle it. I've seen the slave cylinder fitted the wrong side of its bracket on the bellhousing to get more travel. Not recommended but it worked!

Basically 1958 SWB production had the old 2 litre inlet over exhaust engine - and this amounts to 7500 or so vehicles. 109's were all diesel or 2.25 petrol. 1959's were all 2.25 litres. The model year started after annual holidays in August.