secondjeremy

You'll be running the compressor at 35 - 40 psi while spraying. Are you sure you've really got a problem? Why not connect your spray gun up and see what happens - if necessary by spraying your vehicle with water to get some idea of what you're going to need. It may be the thing collapses totally - in which case you may need more than additional tanks. I have a friend who gets excellent results with a 2HP belt driven compressor with what I think is a 25 litre tank (its certainly smaller than my 50 litre)

Its a 9 digit number - so 1955 + 1 - Land Rover (Type) 7 - Land Rover (Model) 0 - Home market 6 - Late 1955 (Sanction period - Rover started model year at annual holiday in August) Rest - serial number. There are 2 bellhousing bolt patterns - which strangely are dependent on the engine valve positions. The original engine was overhead inlet, side exhaust with 4 cylinders. The 6 cylinder engine was ioe as well (roughly the '4' with 2 extra cylinders) - and fits the same bellhousing. The all overhead valve engines (which started in 1957 with the 2 litre diesel) have a different pattern.

You'll find nylon (black and white) and acetal rod (aka delrin I think) offered on e-bay. I'm sure its cheaper from major suppliers but if you only want 6 in or so they may not be the easiest to deal with. eg: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4634.m570.l1313&_nkw=acetal+bar&_sacat=See-All-Categories

I think there should be a flat plate at the back to fill in the gap between the bulkhead top and the cab bottom. Certainly there is on S2's - as the front rail of the back tub is set further back for LWB's I helped fit one once and think the brackets at the outside of the screen at the top had to be reversed to fit the hard top.

Clean it with a needle scaler. Cleans well and finds the weak spots at the same time. http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cat51-air-needle-scaler?da=1&TC=SRC-needle%20scaler

Fitted a Bearmach one on Friday without problems. I was dreading it as I've had enormous problems with the thing before but no trouble this time. The Genuine one from LR direct may well be for a bag of the things - hence the price.

So little more torque than the 4 cylinder which I think is sometimes quoted at 124 lb ft.

Yes someone's been at my gearbox before. I think I've seen other examples of his work which is why I've stripped the thing - which generally seems very good. So its all new bearings, gaskets, seals, springs and the reverse gear and it'll go back together again, hopefully to be swung into my S3 one fine day next week. I think it must be the synchro spring which has done the damage to the reverse gear, somehow I think other parts have been replaced before as the synchro cones look very good as do the the 1st and 2nd engagement teeth. Also (which is quite rare) the 3 3rd/4th synchro springs were all in place.

I'm in the course of rebuilding one at the moment - I'd just convinced myself that it was a suffix 'C' - when I found a large 'C' stamped on the primary shaft. Might be worth a look. Strangely my reverse gear has a badly damaged tooth - I've bought a Bearmach replacement which looks excellent and comes compete with the needle bearing.

Harness: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/ Fuel pumps: http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Fuel_Pumps.html Zenith Stromberg carb - from recollection the brass plug at the bottom may be sealed with an 'O' ring which is probably a general engineering part - ie available as part of a lavatory cistern repair pack from B & Q or in a box of all types (possibly an imperial one. Otherwise : http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Carburetors.html Spark plugs - try one of the same reach - if it oils go for a softer one - pinks - try harder. My own experience is that otherwise it doesn't make any difference. (never run a LR 6 cylinder)

It all depends on condition and what you want to do with it. I think the starting point is a list of requirements - like body condition, chassis condition - do you want something to improve or rebuild or something that's clean, smart, sound and immediately useable? How much would it cost you to get a scruffy one repainted? Chassis repaired? Serious mechanical work? In UK the starting point for vehicles with no MOT is about scrap value - £250 +. Its very easy to buy something that looks reasonable at say £1500 (or more!) with an MOT and then find that the whole thing really is little better than scrap. There's a lot to be said for buying a really good vehicle in the first place. £4300 won't go far if you've got to do major work!

On some diesel setups a get-you-home measure when the stop solenoid fails is to remove a plunger or something under it which operates the appropriate bit of the pump. So has someone been tinkering?

Its probably got a date stamped in the centre somewhere near the part number. There may be an anxious S1 owner dreaming of matching a set for his pride and joy - you've just got to find him! I'd suggest a long listing on e-bay.

Garden sparayer for me. Bit slow but it'll do until I find something better.

Have you adjusted it? (Adjuster on back of box accessible from under middle seat) Did you check its bearings for wear? Suffix D should have an unburstable reverse as LR strengthened the thing at least once during S3 production. Sounds like one set of teeth deflects (ie due to slack in the bearings somewhere) and loads the thing endwards as it were.

So - shouldn't we be asking you those questions?

Just because you can do something doesn't make it a good idea. Sounds to me you should discuss the viability of the whole thing with someone who's an expert in cross country vehicle design. Some colleges run courses in the subject. http://www.harper-adams.ac.uk/undergraduate/201016/eng/off-road-vehicle-design

Sounds like a wheel bearing has siezed - and freed off by the time you got home and it all cooled. I'd take the whole thing down and have a very good look at what's been happening.

Wear on the outside of the tyres is a sign of excessive toe-in - adjusting the tracking should cure that problem. Unless there is slack in the swivels the camber is fixed by the axle construction. If the axle has been damaged its likely to affect one side only in which case hard to one side ALL the time.

Air cleaner hose collapsed internally - take it off the carb and see if its any better. Firing order correct ? - check leads on distributor cap and direction. - Go back to basics take no 1 plug out and find compression stroke - it will be the 'missing' one when you crank the engine over - and stop at what would be the maximum compression. Now check rotor arm really is pointing to no 1 lead - then check the other ones are in the right place (sorry think it goes anti-clockwise but would have to check) Incorrect rotor arm - probably not as came with distributor. Sure you're not using a ballasted coil? What age of Jaguar - All XJ6 and onwards may have ballasted - I don't think my 1969 Daimler V8 did. My 1971 Stag did.

The value for scruffy S3's without an MOT starts at about scrap value. Generally when they've deteriorated to that state there's usually loads to do to make it a nice vehicle. Obviously if its got something going for it - smart straight bodywork, excellent chassis, good bulkhead etc its value starts to rise a bit. However if you partially strip it and stick it on e-bay with a hard luck story and describe it as 'rare' (whatever that means) it'll probably go for more than a decent one with a new MOT.

I think the bumper is intended to be sacrificial to some extent - and if its too strong rather than bending it may damage the chassis itself.

Just think - If I'd seen this first I could have saved £30 + VAT!

Rover used the same battery size for 80in , s1, 2 and 3 petrol through Range Rover Classic . . Its 069 or 072 - I think they're the same size. GSF (German Swedish and French) may do a good deal - I think they're listed on e-bay. This battery is considered to be of an old fashioned configuration and its terminals are the other way round to more modern ones. I tried to fit a different one to a RR Classic and the leads were too tight to fit and there was too much 'superstructure' to get the things on.

Land Rover set out the problem in the workshop manual. The problem with the CB cylinder (one with the nut on the end) is that the outlet isn't at the end of the bore. This is no problem normally but Land Rover installed the thing with the nut end higher than the outlet - forming a perfect air trap. Their procedure is to raise the front of the vehicle high enough so the sylinder lies flat - then bleed. I suppose if you're using an esibleed - and can get the thing to seal you could unbolt the pedal box from the bulkhead and tip it so the cylinder is level.