secondjeremy

I have a 3 ton Clarke jack without quick lift - and its not the raised saddle model you show. I've had it for about 3 years now and it seems fine. When I chose it I was looking for width as an aid to general stability - and chose the 3 ton loading on the basis that things tend to perform best when not pushed to their limits. A 2 ton one may pump quicker. The 3 ton had a good lift height which makes lifting Land Rover chassis less hazardous. Having used the thing I doubt if a pedal operated quick start jack would be any advantage as most of the times I use it I wouldn't be able to get my foot on the as it would be under the vehicle.

Drive a SWB S3 with delux seats for a while then get into the 2109 and the thing will feel very spacious. Cheaper flat seats would give a bit more room. The adjustable seat is raised on the runners - removing them and using the basic seat rails might improve things.

Peugeot / Citroen managed to eventually get 71 BHP from 1905 cc in their naturally aspirated diesel as fitted to BX 19's, ZX 1.9D's and equivalent Peugeots (as well as Fiat Vans, Rovers . . . .). This is an entirely conventional engine in that it uses 2 valves per cylinder, Ricardo Comet combustion chambers and even shares a 3.5 in stroke with the Land Rover engine. If the Land Rover engine were of comparable efficiency you'd expect it to produce about 85 BHP - a considerable increase - and remember the Citroen engine's output was measured in the beefier German Din units rather than the SAE conditions which were used to measure the Land Rover's 67 BHP output. I mention the Citroen XUD as it was about the last production N/A diesel to be developed and tuned by the manufacturers before being replaced by electronically controlled direct injection engines. So what did Peugeot/Citroen do to this engine to make it more efficient to the Rover one?

The switch unit unscrews and comes off the back - enabling you to replace it alone if its an electrical problem.

The difference is the size of the studs - S3 have 16mm studs and larger nuts. The double-ended S1 nuts will nearly go through the holes. However I think late S2a's have the small studs and a larger single ended nut - which is about the outside size of the later nuts - however they would be relying on the cones on the nut to locate the wheel.

S3 heater motor is behind the hole in the wing. There's a circle of foam to seal the 4 in gap to the vent. There's then a large diameter thin plastic hose (4 in diameter?) connecting it to the heater element box which sits roughly where the accelerator/brake pedals would be on LHD vehicles. This lines up with a squareish hole through both bulkhead skins. On the inside is the heater distributon box which is inside the crash padding - this runs across the dash and sprouts the footwell and screen vents - and it contains directional flaps above the footwell vents. Looks like the hole is behind that metal box.

On the old-tpe sender I think the gauge and fuel level light terminals stick out of opposite ends. Off hand I wasn't aware of a 3rd terminal but this will be earth I'm sure. I have a gauge in my workshop still attached to a tank and will have a look on Monday if needed.

There are 2 different regualtors you're talking about. The original Land Rover dynamo charging system had a charging regulator which controlled the dynamo and was mounted on the top of the bulkhead in the engine bay rouhly above the steeering column. This cannot be used with an alternator and its up to you if you try and conncet parts of its function into the circuit or just bypass it altogether. Personally I'd feed the alternator output straight to the battery as there's no point in passingthe heavier current through the dash wiring - which may not be heavy enough anyway. Then - the gauges. With the advent of the black dash S2a in about 1967 Land Rover introduced the slow-reading gauges which had been first seen on other vehicles several years before. These functioned at a reduced voltage (about 10 volts) for stability reasons - produced by the voltage regualtor. This system is recogniseable by the replacement of the ammeter in the segmental gauge by the temperature gauge - so if the vehicle is working on has an ammeter (and a fast-reading fuel gauge (with a tank unit with a raised top rather than a flat pressed steel top) there is no need for the volatge regulator for the gauges as the coil arrangement inside the unit does the job instead.

Exmoor trim sell them - but not directly - I think you have to go through an agent like Craddocks or Nene. They are not expensive. They also sell the other bits like the stick clamps (made by Britpart - plated not painted) and the little hooks to go behind the cab door (at a reasonable price - others can be rather expensive) Look on their site under S2/3 hoods and the sticks and components and you'll find pictures. Craddocks site refers you there as n doubt do others.

What about selling on here: http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/ Free and works! To sell - think about what a purchaser is going to want. If there's work to do it'll appeal to some - who either want to do the work and make a profit - or someone who wants a project - which may well mean it goes into his garage and stays there of years slowly being dismantled. (To be fair some do get finished.) Are these purchasers going to pay the best price? Many purchasers would prefer something they can use straight away - even if they need to get odd bits sorted. _ So it must have an MOT and be a decent drive. Tyres - there are some 600 x 16 crossply off road tyres available at reasonable prices - google may be your friend.

Are the 3 tub supports (SWB - 6 for a LWB) there or have they rusted away?

There's remarkably little on an 80 in that fits a S1 86 or 88. The reason is that the 86 S1 was a redesign to take advantage of the first 5 years or so of Land Rover use and to presumably reflect the uses to which they were being put. The 86 in is 6 inches longer overall that the 80, with fundamentally the S2/3 dimensions. In about 1949 the driving position of the 80 had been improved a little by narrowing the tub front bulkhead top rail and partly sloping the front of the tub - and for the 86 the tub was lengthened to 4 ft, the back of the cab was re-arranged with straight-backed doors, the footwells were pushed forward under the wings with the familiar angled footwells ahead of the floor panels and so on. The 80in doors end level with the seat backs - the later vehicles have more room there. 86 truck cabs were really for 107 LWB vehicles - and like S2's there should be a filler plate to fill the gap between the base of the cab and the top of the bulkhead.

Had the dipstick problem on my 2.25diesel engine - which seemed to go quite well but kept popping the dipstick up in its tube and blowing oil out. I removed the gauze from the vent - as it seemed to lift when I blew compressed air down the outlet, but the main improvement came when I changed the injectors for a less bad set. I think the uneven combustion was forcing gas past the rings. I did replace the O ring at the top of the tube (think its got 2 now.)

As has been mentioned the reason for the S1 88in was so that there was enough room for the 'New' diesel engine to fit without the front end striking the diff under extreme conditions. The engine was (approx) 2052cc, an all-new OHV design (rather than the ioe 2 litre petrol engines) and was a wet-liner design. Its output was about 50BHP - ie about the same as the petrol but it didn't rev much over 3500 rpm due to the lack of advance facilities on the pump. The engine wasn't really Rover's finest effort - although the 2 litre diesel continued in production for the life of the S2. The S2a saw the use of petrol 2.25 blocks for the familiar LR diesel engine we all know and love. Its actually quite rare to find an 88 still with the 2 litre engine. Even more unusual to have the original one as most were replaced with Rover overhauled engines - which have the original number removed and a brass plate screwed to the crankcase.

It'll run perfectly well with the air cleaner disconnected - obviously not a good idea in dusty fields on hot days - but that apart you can leave it off and apart from being a bit noisy it'll still run perfectly well.

Or mount a standard aerial on the bulkhead behind the seat - pointing upwards so as not to be a hazard.

or cheap front linings that are a different radius to the drum and only touch at the ends . . . Assembly problem? Non- working servo wouldn't help

All series 1 doors (86 and 88) have galvanised frames. 809's are a bit different - alloy on the bottom and rust and galv frames on top. 80 in doors have a sloping back - 86/88 are straight or square - with recessed handles which look a bit like S2/3 ones but smaller. Early 80in (basically 1600's) have no external door handles, 2 litres have a thin pressed steel handle on the outside. The handle projects forward and no doubt could be wrenched off easily by bits of hedge and the like so on the much improved S1 they recessed them. 1600's have internal handles (same as 2 litres) but the back lower corner of the door top is cut away and covered with a canvas flap to give access. I think 88's have a glass front window - on the earlier ones the windows are all perspex (now known as acrylic)

Its not condensation is it? Unlined roofs collect it in buckets. Get in on a damp morning - and the roof looks a bit damp on the inside. Set off down the road - put the brakes on for the first time - they'll grab - its a sign of health that they haven't gone oily - as the rust pulls the leading shoe on - and all the water globules run along the inside of the roof - getting steadily bigger till they let go - usually into your lap.

In about 1967 Land Rover revolutionised their electric system by installing a black instrument panel with flick switches for the lights and wipers and a key switch for the ignition and starter. Among the more revolutionary innovations was the installation of a temperature gauge rather than an ammeter and a change to the slow-reading type of fuel gauge. Both temperature and fuel gauge in fact operate at about 10 volts and are controlled by a voltage regulator which is a small rectangular box bolted to the back of one of the instruments (On S3 its the speedo!). The tank units have a different resistance and the corrrect one must be used to get the accurate reading. All SWB gauges are fixed by 6 screws - and the tank mounts are the same for both types - so they are interchangeable. The later units have a flat top, the earlier ones are raised. Later ones are freely available - earlier ones may be unobtainable. Diesels have a terminal for the low level warning light. A diesel sender can be used on a petrol - simply leave the terminal unconnected. The terminals are marked with letters - T is the gauge and W is the light. Later LWB's have the tank under the floor at the back - and have a bayonet fitting sender unit - as well as a different (shorter) float arm as the tank is shallower.

Yes the early low plugs are wired in series - so one out-all out. The Rover recommended procedure for fault finding is to start at the front and test everything - ie take terminals off the front one - check continuity of the earth lead - then check for power to the plugs - then check the plug itself for continuity (resistance should be extremely low) Obviously you may be able to speed the process up a bit - I'd feed power to the battery end of the resistor - then test every terminal working from it for volts. If one plug has gone the chances are the rest will go soon as they've been operated for the same time and were probably made in the same factory at the same time. They can suffer from bad connections - I had this the other day - taking No 2 apart and refitting the leads seems to have solved the problem for the moment.

I had a Stag with strombergs on it - and it really did pull well when I got it all right. I recall that in fact only one carb was adjustable and that it was only meant as a trimmer to get them balanced. The Strombergs had the float chamber underneath the needle - while the SU's had a separate float chamber - Rover used SU's for their cars but Strombergs on the Range Rover and many 6 cylinders as its less affected by operation on inclines than a carb with a separate float chamber. Some Stromberg setups have a choke control on one carb only. The Stag had a double cable and chokes on both. The adjusting tool was a hollow tube (quite thick walled) with a small roll pin close to the shaped end which engaged with a slot in the piston - and a long allen key to engage with the screw adjuster for the jet. High lift cam - should improve breathing - so need bigger carbs if you're going to use full revs. To get the best you really need to have the thing set up on a rolling road - then someone will probaly say they can't get the needles for the strombergs . . . Burlen make SU's and bits for other carbs - may be worth a look at their site.

The PDWA has both hydraulic circuits passing through it - with a shuttle valve which moves (and operates the light) if the pressure drops in one circuit. The theory is that if one circuit collapses it does not affect the operation of the good circuit. I does not affect the operation of the damaged circuit. There are 2 reasons for this - 1 being that the thing can only be centred by opening one circuit - so if this was not done then one circuit would not function, the other reason is that if there was a partial leak - you'd like the light to come on to inform you that you had a problem - but would like the benefit of whatever braking the damaged circuit could provide (which could be considerable) rather than having a light and no front brakes as the valve had decided that it was more important to put the light on than save your life. Makes sense to joint 2 separate circuits with a warning device doesn't it!

The channel is held on with numerous spot welds. I think the best way to get it off would be to cut the back panel away all round then grind it off from behind. I think drilling the spot welds out will damage the channel to much. They're rather difficult to paint round - especially underneath and so some crafty priming and sealing before spraying may help preserve the new one. Repairs round the vents are what condemns most rusty bulkheads. If I were doing it I'd bend what I could and try and loose welds in the folds where possible. (I'd also be happy to swap my MIG for gas welding for that job.)

I think the difference between LWB 80 + and earlier dual master cylinders is really the use of metric fittings. be careful metric will screw into imperial loosely - which is obviously dangerous. What makes you think the 2 master cylinder pistons have different diameters? - its not a BMC MIni.