secondjeremy

My original spec 1978 S3 SWB diesel states 2 tonnes on the serial number plate. My 1982 S3 109 (originally 4 cylinder petrol) is silent on the subject.

All 90's and 110's (even 2.5D's) use 3.54 diffs as fitted to Range Rovers - and with the 200TDi you will have enough power to take advantage of the diffs - in fact it will of course be geared the same as a later vehicle. Its a straight swap for the Rover diff (be a little careful over the number of splines - your S3 will have 10, some 3.54 diffs may have multi-splined diff wheels.) Your speedo will need re-calibrating - indicated 22MPH is about 30MPH on 205 x 16 tyres.

I agree with what's been said about adjustment - but be a little careful - the worm is cut so that its tight in the centre and slack at the ends - to assist with light steering. This means that there's a slight 'peak' at the centre of the worm and so over adjustment could cause a high spot - which means that the thing won't settle with the wheel in that position. Just check that all is smooth after adjustment before lowering the vehicle is all that's needed.

I think there's a method for adjusting gas struts by letting gas out - may be worth a few minutes on Google.

Which way up are your shocks? I think the correct way is rod at the top. I know someone who fitted them the other way up and I could see the thing jarring from about 100 yds away.

Not what I said when some of the bolts on the cylinder head on my 109 undid rather easily!

Sounds like an axle off an 'Airportable' otherwise known as a 'Lightweight'. The things were designed so that the Military could travel them in the Blackburn Beverly or something and the standard vehicle was a little too wide to get 2 abreast or something - so Rover designed the 'Airportable' the Military got C130 Hercules which were wider and then bought the Airportable.

Steering boxes last well which means there's a plentiful supply of second hand ones - especially for S3 with the locking tongue. First I'd have a look for a good used one - just be a little careful over the type which means looking at wheel fastening (secured by pinch bolt or nut, securing bolt size (old ones are smaller) and column length (again older ones can vary.)

5 amp is far too low. There should be a rating plate on the motor - which will give a motor rating in watts or Kw or something. 1 kw is 100 watts. 1hp is 750 watts watts = volts x amps - so you can work out what you need (its just over 4 amps per kw) 3hp (only about 2250 watts) is generally considered to be the largest compressor that can be run on a domestic supply.

Try CALVIN http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html

The various selector shaft holes are supposed to be line-bored - which means that the tops are fitted to the case then the machining is done. This means that the 2 parts must always be kept together and not interchangeable with parts from other boxes. Did you dismantle this box - and did it work properly before?

It was an old trick to get a reluctant plug to fire by holding the lead a little way from it an allowing the spark to jump the gap. What's happening is that when the points open the spark is generated by the collapse of the magnetic field in the primary winding. This isn't a precisely controlled process - and basically enough HT power will be produced to jump the plug gap. Increase that gap - and a bigger voltage spark will be needed to jump the larger gap. There were 'miracle tuning' devices available (Spark enhancers) some of which were simply a cylinder with 2 screws to fit the leads and a gap between the heads inside the tube!

I simply use an ordinary 5mm drill. Sometimes I use a larger one if its handy - but have to be a bit careful only to remove the head and not damage the surrounding metal. I'm talking about 3/16 - 5mm rivets of course.

As Phil says - the middle hoop which sits on the side members is used on the 88 3/4 tilt as well - but the side bars are longer with a full hood. The components are available from Exmoor trim and no doubt others as well as the normal spares stockists. You will also need the 2 little rope fittings behind the doors on the tub (fix them very close to the door aperture edge) 2 loop/cleats for the back and 2 strap fittings above the antiluces (use existing rivet holes.)

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=2&pgCode=070&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Gauges&agCode=0613&agName=Smiths+Classic+Gauge+Spares

Replacement shafts are freely available from the usual specialist suppliers. Trouble is they're all different - well there are 4 models (at least) of S3 box - A, B, C and D and the layshaft is one of the component which changes. The S3 gearbox number is on the transfer box - on the forward edge of the arm leading to the transfer gears. As we all know the transfer box (and its number) will fit many main gearboxes - so try and verify the identity of the box from its components (presence or lack of bearings on reverse, style of machining of teeth) before ordering expensive layshafts.

Sounds like an air leak between the carb and the engine - carb mount? manifold? manifold gasket?

Will the shaft sound different if tapped with a spanner or light hammer? - like a brakedrum which rings if uncracked and sounds dull if it is. (Good old fashioned railway safety check!)

I think the station wagons had head linings - certainly the S3's did and come to think of it I have a S1 truck cab that has one as well.

I think the thread in the windscreen brackets on the bulkhead is M8. I was completely surprised by this when I went to clean the thread before fitting a windscreen as I'd assumed it would be 5/16 UNF but an M* nit fitted the thread and the tap went through as I'd expect a correct fitting one to do - ie rust and paint came out - not shiny chewed up thread.

Sounds like a tooth problem - if you drain the oil you may be able to find it. Tooth could have come off the layshaft, one of the 2 gears on the small reverse gear shaft or the large gear on the outside of the synchro unit. Some of these parts are rather expensive - and the reverse gear varies considerably with models of gearbox (It was strengthened from A to B, and some of the later ones are chemically machined which means that precious little is interchangeable) Yes the box will have to come out - 1st/2nd/reverse is right at the back of the main box.

Is it a Series 3? I ask as if its a Series 1 with the worm and nut box it may be possible that the relay top arm and the steering box drop arm have been swapped. This CANNOT happen on a S3 as the S3 drop arm is secured by a nut and the S1 drop arm by a pinch bolt which fits into a groove in the splined shaft like the relay arm. Series 2 and I think S1 88 / 109in or with the recirculating ball box will be the same as S3.

The answer is actually quite simple. All Series (1, 2 and 3) have galvanised windscreen frames. Series 1's have galvanised door frames with alloy panels riveted to the outside of the tops. Series 2's had an excellent styling job done on them which meant they got steel door frames with an alloy cladding all over - so they should be painted - and apart from the catches there's no galvanising in the doors at all. Most sliding side windows fit from the inside and so are painted. Some have alloy surrounds which are left bare. The rear door glass is fitted behind the skin and again its all painted.

Your Station wagon will have the black dashboard with the key-operated starter and flick switches for the lights - and the warning lights in the bottom of the speedo. Its in fact the last 'proper' Land Rover with the headlights in the centre - the headlights moved to the wings in late 68 or early 69 and at the same time the deep sills were changed for narrow. Then the plastic dash and synchro gearbox was introduced shortly after - and was it still a Land Rover?

Thanks for your answer concerning the ball bearing. I had to replace the switch on a PDWA and there was no ball bearing there. My early S3 workshop manual referred to the ball - so I thought it may have been lost before I got there! Wonderful things - make 2 separate circuits and join them with something that can leak!