Jump to content
abosely

69' Series IIA Build

Recommended Posts

Upside down getting the spring & shackle hangers welded into place. Just about out of welding gas, today so just heavy tack welded them in place.

Did lots and lots of measuring, remeasuring, double & triple checking and setting up a clamped in jig to hold everything in position for welding, paid off.
Everything is within 1/16”/1.5mm or less position! :-D Whew!

I’ll get more welding gas Friday and over weekend finish weld everything. 

When finish welding things I’m using angle metal clamped tight and not welding very much in any one area at a time, to help prevent things from moving on me.

0D3A7DFF-7123-4716-A995-4CC2079DF132.thumb.jpeg.6c4737d163afaeb84cb26e97e40536f4.jpeg

Upside down, looking forward.

BE7DC3CD-BE81-41F8-9BA7-85DF20D4B835.thumb.jpeg.be584ace2b88c53bd9e1155ec2c67fa9.jpeg

Upside down rear spring hanger front, looking aft.

DB037F09-9C17-4DF3-853C-73F5750C2BAB.thumb.jpeg.90dd320b7546134bd1230baf0cbf0079.jpeg

 

Upside down rear spring hanger bracket and hanger, with two holes to apply Buzzweld coatings & drainage holes.

Cheers, Allen 

662669E1-FBCD-490B-AE46-2A9FAC65D20C.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

6A57B3C1-9F9D-40DC-9393-0461F56304EE.thumb.jpeg.4ec09c9ea321af0b42d502da84b3fdf2.jpeg

Bottom view inside of the front spring hanger bracket. The joint between the chassis rail & hanger side plates were completely welded before the bottom cap went on. 

That is an old SIII rear spring leaf I set there to see what it will look like, (well sorta anyway) when the RM parabolics go on. 

6B4CB828-6E8E-4137-AF85-61458A877DC6.thumb.jpeg.d0a0abb695e5536a757a887d2bcbc15d.jpeg

Same view, with the bottom cap & spring hanger tacked in place.

Was running low on welding gas so did heavy tack welds and will finish weld everything this weekend, using angle metal bracing clamped to hold things in position and only weld small sections at a time to keep things from trying to move around on me. :-)

Cheers, Allen 

 

Edited by abosely

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Flipped the chassis right side up and cleaned some of the flash rust off. Have some Purple Stripping Discs to remove all the rust off everything.

Then I will finish the welding after I get more welding gas Friday.

Going to use rattle can primer to keep rust away for the time being.
Then when ready to start coating everything with Buzzweld coatings, will strip & sand blast everything down to bare metal so nothing will come between the Buzzweld coatings and the steel. :-)

75DB7864-4B9D-4CB3-BDC0-D326E6060060.thumb.jpeg.1819c9d9aa233837ef40cf05933f90fb.jpeg

Right side up now, with the 6 outrigger locations all marked and outriggers sitting In relative positions.

Openings in front of chassis rails will be capped with ¼” like the rest of the spring hangers.

AD87EA69-118F-4E2D-B833-EE790FFEC4C1.thumb.jpeg.417278c73120b6875e54be7a24f9534f.jpeg

Rear looking forward.

F664FC79-C426-4492-8179-2758340A3189.thumb.jpeg.ea3000fb7b7c29847ce7f9dc000a5e8c.jpeg

Rear spring hanger with access holes for Buzzweld coatings application & drainage.

D47114EC-7892-4042-AB55-D9E2C42E4F8E.thumb.jpeg.664308544eed1bff093bfc39dab9225e.jpeg

Rear spring hanger side view.

Cheers, Allen 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

055629B4-8F24-4915-906F-93C8596AACF6.thumb.jpeg.f25cf067f11efd48a8317d6f91d581e3.jpeg

Side view of front spring hanger outside reinforcement plates. 

Waiting to be derusted and finish welded.

910915D3-13AA-472E-841A-288935021D67.thumb.jpeg.f5fb2f738b93e7b3719f23305c758b2a.jpeg

Front shackle hanger tacked in place with shackle. 

53F2AC1B-D450-4A5D-B14D-52520427AC8B.thumb.jpeg.3756281dcfccb34606301833535c19a8.jpeg

Rear shackle hanger & one shackle. 

The weld in the upper right corner of pic will be cleaned up and finish welded, it won’t stay like that! :-)

i have a FB page, 69’ Series IIA Build that has more in progress pics if anyone would like to see them.

Cheers, Allen 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you going to blank off the two holes in the spring hangers once the insides are treated?  Big grub screw would do a neat job of preventing mud and water ingress.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure yet, don’t know if it would be better to leave holes open so anything can drain out or try to plug them.

If I plug them and some moisture gets in, it won’t be able to get out. 

So a bit on the fence on this.

Cheers, Allen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well chassis is basically built. Have a few brackets & such to go on it but nothing much really.
Things like tub supports, hand brake brackets, radiator brackets.
Some of which will get welded on as fitting various components to know where the exact locations are.

They are already made and ready to weld in place.

I guess ready to set tub on there & start figuring tub mount locations.

Got the corner gussets welded on on one side, ready for the other side now.

9EC291CF-9E18-46FF-9080-8DF98F451775.thumb.jpeg.34056905fe87a0fcde6def512f003b05.jpeg

Well it kinda looks like it has for a while, but she’s all finish welded.

Have to drill the holes for the Buzzweld application & drainage yet.

i guess I can weld on the chassis horn caps too.

 

6625ECDA-9C03-4DC6-96E5-04A10A7A8A07.thumb.jpeg.886d921689a0fb0c7d13dd2499a4938c.jpeg

The 4”x 4”x 3/16” corner gussets that tie in the rails & rear cross member together.

Plus the bottom of the rails have the 3/16” x 3” wide plate that goes all the way over on the cross member, welded on all sides and runs several inches forward of the shackle hanger.

2CF51F5F-8814-4923-84E4-6FEC96A99652.thumb.jpeg.2c6e6bb910a3ee78845f3fb4515384fa.jpeg

The top sets of gussets weld onto the 3/16” cross member and directly to the chassis rail sides right next to the built up weld on rails seams.2CF51F5F-8814-4923-84E4-6FEC96A99652.thumb.jpeg.2c6e6bb910a3ee78845f3fb4515384fa.jpeg

The bottom gussets on each side of both rails weld to the 3/16”stiffener plates of the shackle hange assemblies and weld onto the 3/16” rear cross member.

Cheers, Allen 

1D285088-2012-4787-9427-A8B8D671E66E.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Crumple zones?  That'll be everything else in a 500yd radius, including the ground underneath at that weight!  Just as well you've uprated the engine and transmission!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s not that much heavier than the stock one, I mean yes it’s heavier, but I can lift the front off  the saw horse easily enough.

the rear is heavier of course, but people put bumpers & things on the back of some.

Its going to be a rag top.

With the tuned 300Tdi, Stubby R380 & LT230 and lowish gears she should move along fine.

Compared to some of the loaded overland 200/300Tdi 110s  I’ve seen, she’ll be almost light weight! Lol

But yes, if she hits anything other than an immovable object, it’s going to crumple and hurt what she hits! 

Wsit till you see the Camel Trophy style bumper & bull bar she’s getting. It’s going to be a bull bar, no brush bar here. ;-) Well trianglated bracing to handle front impact from pushing bumper or bar back.

Cheers, Allen 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The chassis is basically done. Few little things to do after the engine, gearbox, TC & springs get here to determine location of motor mounts, under bell housing & gearbox bolt in cross members will be.

The two bolt in cross members are finished & I threw a coat of primer for temporary, they will be sand blasted down to bare metal when prepping for Buzzweld 2K Armor, CIO & WAR.

0C68CE43-1F0C-486D-A3AD-A5B4AB072164.thumb.jpeg.b0de33257a7cf583367d73326cfb8e0f.jpeg

8F0FB155-CEDA-486E-B9AC-53317663FAA5.thumb.jpeg.449f4c88cc3dad3cd3214d37ab746a83.jpeg

The extended shock towers are mocked-up in approx location. Shocks will be 12”- 14” front & rear. After springs arrive & can check range of articulation.

9DFA4C3E-F2C3-4E24-A1D6-BF7945495306.thumb.jpeg.b918d4cd336fd77ffcca2ac1c56f8d17.jpeg

I cut the sheet metal diff cover off the front housing. It incorporated a thin reinforcing ring in it. 

So I made a reinforcing ring out of 3/16” material and welded it around inner & outer perimeter. This gives a bit extra material so when the diff ring is ground dead flat have plenty of material. This also give more material when it is drilled & tapped for the Ruff Stuff diff cover. It makes it about a 1/16” thicker than the rear one, I don’t mind as the front is going to take more hits anyway.

CCF800D6-5064-4F95-A4B8-93ACB8A24CD0.thumb.jpeg.a2f7b919d48b5cbdff7edb4536193ed2.jpeg

This shows the housing extension sleeve on the short side & reinforcing ring where was machined, the long side just has a reinforcing ring on the machined part.

My FB page, 69’ Series IIA Build, has more informations & pics about all of it.

Cheers, Allen 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I got everything removed from the tub, ready to be soda blasted to bare metal.

All brackets, braces, cappings, stiffeners are removed. The only places that I won’t be able to strip down to bare metal is the factory lap joints, and there isn’t any corrosion in them at all.

Using all YRM parts for rebuilding the tub, except for cappings being stripped & regalvanized.

The floor is all new YRM parts  underneath and their 3mm floor. All the stiffeners, braces and such are new HD YRM parts. Getting their tub liner in smooth (no checker plate!) but not using the tub liner kits floor because have the HD 3mm floor.

The two rear quarter panels are being replaced with pair of Paintman Panels ones.

1D8D3BB9-E673-4CC7-A616-579F36FF9B89.thumb.jpeg.f1b0aeda235874f9896279995c1df78d.jpeg

2803F35C-A4A3-453F-9E2A-ABA9CADB0593.thumb.jpeg.7a107cd4b488e9af8f4b82e23c800504.jpeg

9F2D7443-F0D2-412B-B455-917732090ECF.thumb.jpeg.ee596fb88cc2a953342ac0e018b7f4d3.jpeg

Reason for removing and using all new braces & stiffeners, is when I took them off they were packed full of mud & sand. 

There was no provision for the debris to get out. So will make drainage openings for everything that has any kind of a cavity. Plus each piece will be coated with Buzzweld coatings on all sides before riveting on and the mounting surfaces will likewise be coated first.

2158866D-A1D6-4755-B377-142FBA6D8511.thumb.jpeg.c493b2e8fccd31ba4375b40a1f3ca24e.jpeg

Defanatly will eliminate the possibility of this happening again.

More on FB page 69’ Series IIA Build.

Cheers, Allen 

 

1D8D3BB9-E673-4CC7-A616-579F36FF9B89.jpeg

Edited by abosely

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A small but exciting progress, the footwells, pillars & feet for my bulkhead that Dave Marsh is building have arrived at his shop.

The laser cut parts for the bulkhead was supposed to be delivered this week also, but the laser cutting place is behind. So will be next Wednesday or Thursday before they can be picked up.

Dave will be spending the last week of this month working like a busy bee on it. So will be able to be put in the crate with everything else and start its journey the the Big Island! :-)9D413824-55DD-4A05-A191-79A566ACB9B4.jpeg.563c815333cf463aae8c4fdc17a2a12c.jpeg

Cheers, Allen 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, secondjeremy said:

"Look - no steering relay!"

Yep, using FJ60 power steering box, mounts on outside of left rail, 4 bolts through rail with crush tubes and ¼” plates on both side of rail. The ¼” plates are also front spring hanger components.

Cheers, Allen 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, how have I missed this thread before now? Impressive stuff!

Slightly OTT on material thickness in places :lol: but lovely work. It reminds me of some of Dirtydiesel's fab work.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is what the lazer cut out pieces for 4 SII/A bulkheads look like.

B5E3E664-32CD-4F27-82B8-9C19A5973BCF.jpeg.c83784d2f14209481ad906404f7afdf0.jpeg

Here are a few parts made from those pieces Dave Marsh of Westlakes All Wheel Drive, this morning.

8C3C934A-CBF9-4687-9260-74463C7476DC.jpeg.102d31f0ac7e14bb305ad90213e1e385.jpeg

It’s happening! :-D

Cheers, Allen 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I started a thread about the bulkhead build. Thought it might be helpful if there was a thread just about the bulkhead being built for future reference.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

There has been a bit of a design drift since posting the pics of the rear tub being disassembled. :-D

I originally wanted to build it as a 100” , but when I started this project there were so many unknowns (for me anyway) that I didn’t want to add to many design changes. But as the build progressed & I learned more, figured things out decided to build it as a100”.

Rather than cutting and extending the chassis I built, which is finished. I’m just going to build another chassis as a 100”. 

I learned a few things building the first one and enjoyed building it. I figured out a lighter and easier way to build the rear cross member. 

This time I’m having the parts plasma cut, instead of me cutting everything out with angle grinder & cutoff disc. Saves a lot of time & effort and won’t cost much to have it cut for me, from my patterns.

The other big design drift is the engine. Decided to use a Mercedes OM603 6 cylinder diesel. I found one (actually an 87’ 300D car) real cheap. So going to sell the 300Tdi.

The OM603 fits nicely in the engine bay and is being rebuilt to new specs/tolerances & with a few mods & upgrades. the pump is being rebuilt with 7.5mm elements, custom exhaust manifold, & hybrid k14 fast spool turbo. It will make 270hp-280hp and 325ft/lb 440Nm torque.

The rebuilt to new specs/tolerances & strengthened R380 Stubby shouldn’t have problems handling the torque if driven with a bit of common sense.

I’m starting a thread in the Modified Vehicle Builds and Special Projects forum here,  about the OM603 engine build to go into the SIIA  100” 

Cheers, Allen 

Edited by abosely

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just found this and love the work,... also love the transition to 100"..... all good from this perspective,..... look forward to the next instalments....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I made a FB new page that focuses on the build as a 100”.

facebook.com/built100inch/

It will be a bit before I get it written and have pics up. But check it out & let me know what you think.

Cheers, Allen 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/14/2018 at 7:36 AM, abosely said:

It will be a bit before I get it written and have pics up. But check it out & let me know what you think.

I think I'd rather lick my own armpit than log into facebook. :SVAgoaway:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I think I'd rather lick my own armpit than log into facebook. :SVAgoaway:

Same here!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

See, that’s why I post pics & info here, so you guys don’t have to decide between logging into FB or licking your armpits! 😄

Cheers, Allen 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/14/2018 at 7:36 AM, abosely said:

I made a FB new page that focuses on the build as a 100”.

facebook.com/built100inch/

It will be a bit before I get it written and have pics up. But check it out & let me know what you think.

Cheers, Allen 

What's face book? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy