Nonimouse Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 What state is your intercooler in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 17 hours ago, Badger110 said: Not sure on the laws relating to either the visual side or whether it affects the emissions test. I'm sure someone with experience in this field will be along to give some more information Can't claim any particular expertise, but I think you're disabling emissions control equipment* which isn't allowed. However, as long as the MOT tester can't tell from a visual check and the vehicle still passes the required emissions standards nothing is going to happen. * Don't know what effect it has on more modern vehicles - blanking the EGR on my 300Tdi made the exhaust visibly less smokey... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted November 17, 2020 Author Share Posted November 17, 2020 8 hours ago, Nonimouse said: What state is your intercooler in? Probably as bad as the rest of it, especially as it's the lowest point Will strip it out at the weekend. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted November 19, 2020 Share Posted November 19, 2020 On 11/17/2020 at 8:35 PM, Badger110 said: Probably as bad as the rest of it, especially as it's the lowest point Will strip it out at the weekend. Be interesting to see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted November 21, 2020 Author Share Posted November 21, 2020 Not to be at the moment as the works van is still in the garage, so the truck is being used daily. I may bite the bullet and upgrade the Intercooler when i do the air intake, move this job forward before the diffs. I have begun ripping out the rear again, i'm happy with the seating but i can't get to grips with how i want the NS done. It was a kitchen area with a sink and foldaway Sears petrol cooker, but it wasn't feeling right. I also noticed i was getting some damp spots on the ply flooring so i ripped it out to find the culprit. With it being a Saturday evening, i ended up getting too ****faced to make any sensible decisions, i'll take another look tomorrow oh and i'm going to look at a Snatch complete rear end in a field, apparently if i can get it out of the field, it's mine.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted November 22, 2020 Author Share Posted November 22, 2020 The field can keep the Snatch body, it was halfway down the field and included the front floor panels, door surrounds and roof, all of it upto the bulkhead/windscreen. It would've been an interesting idea, but there was no way it was moving without some big machinery involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share Posted December 6, 2020 Nevermind the local weather talking about snow, i've snowballed an idea this week which has me now removing the front of the Landy and a dent in my wallet. As per the sticky oily carp in the inlet pipe, i looked at getting this all cleaned up and to remedy the issue but what was supposed to be a simple weekend's work has turned out to be a tad more....about a week's work so far and we're still not up n running yet. Before i get to that, let's start at the arse end of the Landy..... I have an auxilary tank to fit to the rear OS wheel arch, bought from Faceache on the basis it looked the right shape and anything after that is gonna be an angle grinder and welder scenario to get it to fit Last weekend ( we're in the past, present and future for this thread, so hold on to your hats folks, it's a bumpy ride ) i began by dropping the main tank as i have a webasto fuel feed to fit. I also needed to replace the breather pipe on the main tank as i suspected it was leaking when the tank was topped up. With an aux tank, it'll be well below the upper fuel level so it's got to be super tight, abit like a yorkshireman at christmas Sure enough it was split, so a replacement was ordered as well as some 10mm ID fuel hose for the top tank and a reducer to take the 19mm id fuel line to 10mm id fuel line on the breather line. The filter housing on the 2.4 is made from the same stuff that yoghurt pots are made of, ie it breaks when you release the fuel lines...that is if you can actually get the fuel lines released. Having the filter housing in close proximity to the rear wheel was one of JLR's finest **** ups in that the push clips get full of dirt and carp and are impossible to release. So a new housing was ordered. Waste of time as the old pipe broke in the main feed beyond the filter housing and i can't get the little fecking bit of pipe out I'm thinking of using a Series filter housing which is metal and can take barbs so i can fit the fuel lines with clips, i need to confirm the filter specs for the 2.4....although i can't see it being anything special... The aux tank outlet is 70mm id and the inlet for the main tank in 60mm id...i never said this was going to be easy I've ordered some more fuel line, this time 70mm id and i'll have to increase the inlet size of the main tank somehow... The balancing pipe from the aux tank is right at the bottom, for this i have fitted a barb and will use this as a feed for one of the webastos in the cab. The aux tank holds about 4-5 litres below the main oulet so it should do a few nights of fuel supply for the webasto. The next few days will see the 70mm id pipe arrive, i'll order a replacement filter housing in the meantime and by next weekend it should be fitted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share Posted December 6, 2020 As for the other news from the front, it began with a mission to clean up the inlet and other associated areas. Before i got to that i wanted to stop it happeneing again. Once i had that solved, i could do the cleaning and go from there. I ordered a Provent 200 Capture Can and fitted that with some clear hose so i could keep an eye on it and make sure it was doing the job. I fitted it where the AC system was located. I purchased a EGR blanking plate as well but haven't fitted it as the nuts have become one with the studs and it's going to be a reit fookin nightmare to get the buggers off It was at this point that a conversation i have had with myself on a few occasions sprung to my mind as i wanted to upgrade the air inlet to the airbox as well as a few other ideas. The inlet on the 2.4 & 2.2 is fit for purpose but isn't the best design if you want a little more low down ooomph from the motor. The genereal idea is that instead of using the side mounted inlet, have a short larger diameter pipe going from the wing top to the airbox inlet and working something from there. I ordered some 100mm air ducting, 2 ply reinforced,a new filter and an inlet end in shiny red as i do have a dark side...or i'm just not normal Fortunately for me, they didn't have the size i wanted in red so i was saved from having to talk to folks in souped up corsa's outside McDonalds on the weekends, and instead received it in el natural colour, ie aluminium. To add insult to injust they sent the wrong size too...so not only was i mouring the loss of a shiny red inlet, it was too small for the purpose First test fit once i'd mullered the original inlet pipe trying to get it out, i fitted the 100mm pipe work and it was snug. there were some issues though. Firstly, it was a sunday we were having omlette for dinner. Now i like an omlette, believe me i do, it's good to throw in some garlic, onions and some teriyaki sauce, cook for a couple of minutes then add some mushrooms, peppers, courgettes and then add the eggs and voila, job's a good 'un. Just not on a Sunday though. It's baked potatoes and something on a Sunday. Anything and baked potatoes, but baked potatoes none the less. Other than that little issue i found the bolt from the alternator was touching the ducting. This is going to rub a hole in this i can see after not very long so i need to protect it somehow. I grabbed a exhaust bandage kit thing which is thin aluminium with a jubilee clip attached and wrapped that around the ducting. It does the job for now although not sure how long it'll last and it will need something a little tougher to protect it. The same issue happens at the brake servo tank as that touch's it too. So i made up 2 for now. Got it all back in The pipe sticks out of the top wing vent at the moment. The airbox has been modded by removing the fan and making the inlet hole upto 100mm. This gives a rough 100mm from the inlet on the wingtop to the airfilter with no restrictions. So how to finish at the wing top? My idea is to finish the ducting at the aluminium (not red ) outlet and cap it off with a snow cowl. Over a coffee and a kitakt i did some sums and worked out that financially i'm ok for the rest of the year as long as i stop buying stuff and subscribing to pornhub, but i also worked out that with the bends in the 100mm pipework i probably have about an 80-90mm diameter inlet on average (85mm for the maths ), so it should give me an area size of 78sq cm. The snowcowl inlet area is 195mm x 40mm, that being 78sq cm as well. The original air intake pipework is 50mm x 95mm giving a 47sq cm area size, although i believe the pipework as it turns into the wing is smaller still, but i can't get it out of the bottom of the wing where it fell down to measure it The airbox inlet has been increased in air flow by a decent percentage ( i'm not going to try and work that out! ), so what is next? The expensive bit is next. I will try and make something if i think i can rather than spend lots of money, however i can't make intercoolers, but i can make a good vodka and coke! After a few V&C's i managed to persuade the wife to buy a BAS intercooler and tune for xmas The good news is i don't need to clean the intercooler already fitted or the pipework as it's being changed as well as the radiator as that's looking abit shabby too. The bad news is i got an omlette for sunday dinner 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 1 hour ago, Badger110 said: I have an auxilary tank to fit to the rear OS wheel arch, bought from Faceache Is that a "mass produced" aux tank or a "special" that you've picked-up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share Posted December 6, 2020 4 minutes ago, Peaklander said: Is that a "mass produced" aux tank or a "special" that you've picked-up? I have no idea It looks professionally made ( although i haven't leak tested it yet! ) and it's kind of the right shape and size and will fit with some fettling and swearing, that i can promise you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 Great stuff, I look forward to the fettling and swearing (and seeing the tank). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 Just for you @Peaklander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 Another side line to the truck is an idea which was shown over on Def2 by 2010Blackdefender90, it's based on the Wifey air system which allows you to inflate and deflate all 4 tyres at once. 4 compressor points at 4 areas of the truck, plug in your whips from there to the tyres and it'll balance them based on whether you release a valve to deflate or engage the compressor to inflate. Individual tyres can be done by just using one whip to that particular tyre. Thinking ahead to the locker set up, i wanted to get this installed whilst the fuel tank was out and i was rummaging around under the truck. However i'm running a Tmaxx compressor and not an ARB, whether this is upto the job, we shall see. Black did a test with his twin ARB and got 20psi to 38psi in 2 minutes. I'm not bothered with speed of inflation etc, it just makes life a lot easier deflating/inflating tyres. I've still got a few bits to arrive ( US purchase ) by the end of December, in the meantime i can get the airlines installed under the truck to the outlets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Curious how the tank extends below the outlet pipe to the main tank - how that fuel below the outlet is meant to get to the Mai tank without a pump I don’t know. Surely it’d have been better to end the tank at that level to save a bit of dead fuel weight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 The outlet with the barb on it is the balancing outlet. The idea is you then ' tap ' into the main tank at the bottom as it's the only flat spot where it can be done. This throws up a few issues, one being you need to tap into a plastic tank and two, protecting it. Some have done it with no issues, some have done it and built a guard around it. The 3rd option is how i shall use it. It'll be a feed tank for one of my Webasto's ( the airtop ). It holds approximately 5 litres below the main outlet which is plenty to run an airtop for some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 I don’t see any advantage to the air system? You’re never going to want all 4 at the same pressure? And any differences in corner weights of the car will change the pressure as it will settle down more on the higher weighted corners when any two are linked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 I believe the advantage is in making the job of inflation and deflation easier and quicker, but the later isn't what i'm doing it for. Deflating is fairly quick with standard adjustable release caps, but inflating means pumping each tyre individually in a normal set up. It's not neccessary, most things aren't if you look at them objectively, but as i've learnt from having to deflate and inflate all my tyres after scenarios, this is a good system and saves some time and effort, especially at the scene. Afterwards you can individually apply pressures when on a nice level road, and even then, the system allows you to have the compressor hard fixed and lines used when and where needed. I want to permanently fix my compressor for the locker duties when they arrive and so i've been looking at systems that allow this as well as be able to use it for tyre duties without having to disconnect and carry the compressor around outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Still hard mount the compressor, but you then can just have a coiled hose to go round and air up. Mine's a 90 I know, but the hose easily reached out of the back door to each of the 4 tyres, with the ARB compressor mounted right behind the driver's seat on the wheelbox. Just thinking it's a whole lot less bits to carry round all the time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 Fed some airlines in and fitted the valves this afternoon and then tested it for leaks. At the front i fitted the valves on the outriggers with some copex to keep them somewhat protected. At the rear arch i fitted them to the arch angle, again copex where exposed. Fed under the rear tub and up into the rear area sleeved in copex. I'll finish these off with stuffing glands to make it neat and then onto the compressor set up. I connected them all into pairs and then those 2 pairs into a single outlet. Connected this up to the compressor to check for leaks, one or two which were sorted and then tested with all 4 wheels connected for speed of inflation. From 20psi to 38 psi took 6 1/2 minutes which isn't too bad for the T Maxx ( twin ARB does it in just over 2 minutes ) I want to change the vavles as they're schraider valves and it's not a perfect fit, the ends of the whips wobble abit and can lose air. There are more secure fittings which i'll look into abit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 12, 2020 Author Share Posted December 12, 2020 Aux fuel tank in and boy was that a nightmare Intercooler in, new rad and guess what? It fired up first time with no issues....i must've done something wrong somewhere, that is unheard of! The plastic shround for the viscous fan fell apart on removal, it's not going back in, bloody thing's a pita. BAS intercooler is very nice, looks lovely but they didn't have black silicone hoses, so i bought blue but managed to grab a new black set from Def2 for £50 so they're going on early next week when i strip it all back again to do the timing chain. I'll post some pics later 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 Sounds good! what did you do wrong for it to fire up first time . Worth noting the viscous fan won't be very effective at all without the shroud. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 You definitely need the fan cowl. Firstly it stops you shortening fingers when under the bonnet. Secondly if you don't have the cowl you might as well bin the fan to. They are roughly half as effective without the cowl. Mike 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 12, 2020 Author Share Posted December 12, 2020 I will be replacing the timing chain in the coming weeks, i may re install the cowling and fan then, It is unnerving watching the fan whizz round when checking on the engine bay but i did notice on the run out this evening that the temp guage was slightly lower than normal. For the past 3 years the gauge has sat horizontal, never moved regardless of what i'v been doing ( towing, hot days in town driving, high altitudes ), but it was a little lower this evening. The temp guage isn't a perfect way to work out the temperature of the engine so i'll run some live tests with the BAS remote tool to see what the engine is doing in different scenarios over the next week or so. It's an interesting bit of kit Pics coming soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted January 9, 2021 Author Share Posted January 9, 2021 Right it’s time to mount the compressor and I’m coming up with some questions someone will know answer to hopefully. The compressor is connected to the manifold which has 2 outlets for the solenoids to control the lockers and a spare outlet for tyre inflating duties. compressor to manifold then to inflation distribution. my question is, do the lockers have to be under constant pressure to work? Does the solenoid open, pressure the locker and shut keeping it ‘ locked ‘ or does it open allowing the compressor to pressure and keep the pressure? I ask because if I activate the locker with the solenoid, then use the tyre inflation system, will this cause the locker to ‘ unlock’ ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 9, 2021 Share Posted January 9, 2021 Lockers need a constant pressure or they'll start to loose pressure over time. That time dependent on how leak free the system is. Nigel did a video on the lockers pressures and they will actuate at a lower pressure. I can't say I ever had the need to run the lockers and pump tyres at the same time so I wouldn't worry about it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.