De Ranged shop projects

[De Ranged]

5 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Has your tool post got a lock pin? That helps massively to keep it from loosing pressure. 

never thought of that (my personal one I've removed it) but the work one has one.... I'd just have to mount the tool on the "backside"  of the tool post as our pin has a sloped ramp one side..... I'll have more stick out from the chuck but I can beat that with the travel steady 
Cheers for that idea ..... now I need to think up something to knurl lol 

 

[landroversforever]

48 minutes ago, De Ranged said:

never thought of that (my personal one I've removed it) but the work one has one.... I'd just have to mount the tool on the "backside"  of the tool post as our pin has a sloped ramp one side..... I'll have more stick out from the chuck but I can beat that with the travel steady 
Cheers for that idea ..... now I need to think up something to knurl lol 

 

Got a picture? Can’t see how a lock pin would stop you mounting it normally? 

Also for rigidity, having a live centre in the back end also helps. 

[CwazyWabbit]

4 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Got a picture? Can’t see how a lock pin would stop you mounting it normally? 

Also for rigidity, having a live centre in the back end also helps. 

It'll be one of those four sided tool posts, they rotate one way but not the other (like a ratchet). 

[landroversforever]

5 hours ago, CwazyWabbit said:

It'll be one of those four sided tool posts, they rotate one way but not the other (like a ratchet). 

Both of ours had lock pins and one way definitely a ratchet type tool post with a locking pin.

Im talking a pin that drops down from the tool post through into the slide. Sometimes they’ll only lock with the tool post in one orientation. 

[De Ranged]

17 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Both of ours had lock pins and one way definitely a ratchet type tool post with a locking pin.

Im talking a pin that drops down from the tool post through into the slide. Sometimes they’ll only lock with the tool post in one orientation. 

Cwazy is right, we just have the ratchet pin that is there to stop the tool getting forced back as you advance the tool along the bedways 

I removed mine on my little lathe because I champer with my TCMP tools and it was a hassle to turn it all the way around.... in my case the lathe is small enough I get enough tension on just the toolpost bolt 

 

[De Ranged]

Decided to finish off a bit more of the scooter (while I wait on a Panel repair inspection on a car I'm fixing for some one else)

So its wireing..... I really don't like wireing, it took half a day to get to this level.... stripping, shortening and lengthening, following (to work out what does what and how lol)

and that was just the front section sorted it took me another whole day to get it all done.... it didn't help they did a couple of colour changes, the front half the main power wire is Orange the back half it is dependent on the component.... with a couple of interesting colour changes mid loom just to keep you on your toes and this is just a scooter lol

Removed all bar one of the interesting colour changes in the process.... the one I left is the coil, because it has colour cast plastic markers on it to wire it correctly, it was the worst lol power from the CDI is black (every where else this is the earth) and earth is green 

I even removed the super fine wires that the cheap LED indicators and tail light came with and replaced them with 15amp automotive wire. With the tail light I had to remove the solder pull the wires out of the circut board, then drill out the holes, feed the new wire through and solder to the board 

But this is what I ended up with 

Now its just sort the mirrors (legal requirement), re-kit the chainsaw carb that was on this, to do this I need to workout what it came off lol and there are no identifiers. Then come up with a better cable management for the throttle at the carb end, it was just tied on with lacing wire even the end of the inner to the throttle arm lol
Then the seat, which I've formed the leather to shape and tooled the back I need to just trim it and stitch it 

Almost there 

Edited October 30, 2022 by De Ranged
One day gramma good will be

[De Ranged]

After a fair bit of time on the internet.... I think I know the model of Carb and the saw it came off (A Jonsered 49sp - 66e same carb all the way through the range from 49cc to 66cc) so I'll order a kit this week 
The best option for mirrors arrived in, I wanted something retro and round so but keeping with the rest of the theme.... cheap lol 

So this is what I got 

lol they are kinda overkill on a small scooter 

So I came up with an idea to change the mounting to the ends of the bars and I'll shorten up the shaft so it sits just above my hands

So machined a insert bar clamp, I'll cut some triangular bits to weld to the rim of the mount and transition to the stem of the mirror 

[De Ranged]

Doing a bit of contract work at the moment so don't have much time in the shed 

But I have managed to finish off a few little bits 

Had another go with the knurling tool, tried mounting the tool in the backside of the quick release so I could use the ratchet pin to push against...... it was a neutral gain lol I got more pressure but, had issues with deflection and the extra distance from chuck too tool means I'd have to think about extra material as a "handle" 

I went back to adjusting height, now I'm aware of how to tune it.... I had it tuned within 5 mins, I'm slowly advancing pressure till i have a good pattern formed then backing almost off traveling a tool width and advancing pressure and repeat 
Body is 304 with an insert from a piece of shaft from an old Claas silage conditioner.... it flattened off my center punch at work leaving only a smudge lol so I enealed an offcut of it machined it down to an insert, heat treated, then machined it too an interferance fit into the handle..... the only bit I'm not happy with is I ghosted a mark from the chuck jaws onto the knurl when I clamped it to grind the point 
The piont is a 2 stage and it leaves a beautifull locator for a drill bit, yet I can tilt it over slightly and I can see the point easily to line it up on a scribe 

 

Finished making a set of stretching dies for the bead roller..... depending on how you bead roll a panel (patern rolled, the style of the roll's used or the shape of the panel) it can cause the panel to "tin can" where you get a stretch in the panel that causes it to pop from one position to another and doesn't want to sit flat...... If I had the english wheel working I'd run a light stretch in the panel to give the bead some material to form from (I'm pulling it apart to make a smaller frame) so these will do.... I also needed a flat anvil for tipping (where you bend against a sharp top roller) I haven't been able to do that since I sold my old manual bead roller 

you can see the E wheel frame in the background.... it takes up too much floor space so gets buried when not in use and it wasn't strong enough for the louver press I want to be able to do with it 

 

Got one more thing done as well a set of hammer dies for the air chissle/hammer for hammer forming.... I seen a guy making stainless car trim on utube and it got me thinking, I'm going to see if I can emboss a panel.... they are 35mm dia smoothing hammers that I machined a press fit tube for, I dropped a couple of Tig welds on because even a .15mm interferance fit the tube went on way to easily
The yellow one is Nylon the black is 20mm bridge rubber 

Both projects I want to try these on a bit away so they are just up on the shelf till then ....

Now back to the scooter lol 

[landroversforever]

20 hours ago, De Ranged said:

Doing a bit of contract work at the moment so don't have much time in the shed 

But I have managed to finish off a few little bits 

Had another go with the knurling tool, tried mounting the tool in the backside of the quick release so I could use the ratchet pin to push against...... it was a neutral gain lol I got more pressure but, had issues with deflection and the extra distance from chuck too tool means I'd have to think about extra material as a "handle" 

I went back to adjusting height, now I'm aware of how to tune it.... I had it tuned within 5 mins, I'm slowly advancing pressure till i have a good pattern formed then backing almost off traveling a tool width and advancing pressure and repeat 
Body is 304 with an insert from a piece of shaft from an old Claas silage conditioner.... it flattened off my center punch at work leaving only a smudge lol so I enealed an offcut of it machined it down to an insert, heat treated, then machined it too an interferance fit into the handle..... the only bit I'm not happy with is I ghosted a mark from the chuck jaws onto the knurl when I clamped it to grind the point 
The piont is a 2 stage and it leaves a beautifull locator for a drill bit, yet I can tilt it over slightly and I can see the point easily to line it up on a scribe 

Have you got a live centre for the tailstock? That will stop the issues of it being so far out of the chuck. I'd also suggest leaving the pressure on when you expand the knurling along. Just got to move it slowly. 

[De Ranged]

Well I've moved almost all of the stuff out of my leased shed..... been there for over 10yrs lol, got a few things still there just so I can finish a resto panel job on a classic car for my old land lord 
Finished the gantry and only used it to lift the lathe onto a home made load skate.... its currently in bits outside my home lol. I lucked out and got the use of a tilt trailer from work that has a winch so I managed to drag everything on and roll it off even the lathe and mill 

Currently dealing with all the resourse concents (part of that is getting approval from the neighbors) to build my shed.... its looking positive at this stage, once I've got that its the building concent process and I'll be able to start building lol 

Where I want to build the shed, it got flooded in winter.... had over a meter of flood water through my storage container that is sitting there, its also common for the ground water during winter to rise to ground level so I want to put down a 500mm pad of GAP65 compactable material so I get my toys above most of the floods, I'd like more but building height is proving an issue with the neighbors and the cost of all the material is going to be a bit painfull so I'm limited at 650mm (500 compactable base coarse and 150 reinforced concrete)

Bought a toy to level out and compact the base coarse 

Not the flashest, but the price was right and it all the functions work, the bucket is going to need rebuilding and I'm going to have to convert it to a standard quick attatch so I can run a hired compaction wheel. There are a few other issues mostly engineering I may do to it if I keep it as I've picked up a set of forks so I might keep it as a fork lift 

Got one kinda big problem is while it happens to have a cat logo on it..... the local cat agent can't find a model , its old enough boom and bucket are on foot pedals, the motor is an Isuzu light truck motor and I suspect is a repower.... I've spent nights on google searching and can't find anything that looks like it 
Any one here got a guess as to what it is ?

 

[bishbosh]

On 11/13/2023 at 10:07 PM, De Ranged said:

Any one here got a guess as to what it is ?

Yellow? 😛 

[muddy]

Thomas, Belle, Gehl, Mustang? It certainly doesn't look like a bobcat.

Im sure you are aware but plan/test your quick attach conversion carefully they can play havoc with the crowd geometry. 

[landroversforever]

On 11/13/2023 at 10:07 PM, De Ranged said:

Any one here got a guess as to what it is ?

Does this help? 

https://lens.google.com/search?ep=cntpubb&hl=en-GB&re=df&s=4&p=AbrfA8qCrafa_Pw-FieHVwfF2A6Fk9JXN7I4H4XfvazXkHJl-4LHWcN8KtYADazcsVNLmpiXSpjSBVqxOCM-3pMCj3AU0DtCzcGc-dJGeFzEwwQEjiKrIz0I97zT-rqqzhBwdQ-JbNekbr0bswDRifGULHO_ABtt1YwtJqr6rN5iODsjBRW_1AhqnzgKBdWUcsw9mheH4KU8XSAlWSn0PgTWNrA9Bq482xB-Zk65q86HTSyDx4AzL6uRCy8OJoDaTOgj4KDQrBvwrsDzzRitc5SOJ3oDgHanL_dnoGCI5XkWYVsgUno0aBTwhW8VJ7neDT7NRijfA52tJS2yFoMKRfy5YXDX4e4hKopZE-O3jlFr02c3B7u27qdc25g5w0voVASdxihd8JBjOF4o0N-qcffqKtNVaA%3D%3D#lns=W251bGwsbnVsbCxudWxsLG51bGwsbnVsbCxudWxsLG51bGwsIkVrY0tKRGhpT0Rkak0yUmtMV001T1RRdE5HSTNPUzA1TmpGa0xUZzRZVGN6T1dZNU9UazVZaElmTkRCM1IwUkpVWFJwYnpSYVRVbG5SM0JuU1V4dVVEQTBUVzVPZW5aU1p3PT0iXQ==

[De Ranged]

The best guess at the moment is an early Bobcat I've found some that are similar but its only similarities lol till I can find some identifier its just a guess 

3 hours ago, muddy said:

Im sure you are aware but plan/test your quick attach conversion carefully they can play havoc with the crowd geometry. 

lol got hrs of CAD so far.... crowd geometry is just part of it, unfortunatly where the quick attach lock pins is a conflict with the ribs that hold the crowd ram and boom..... I'm just playing dimensions to limit conflict and the potential loss of strength 
 

[De Ranged]

A little update after alot of time wasting on the internet and chatting to a couple of older (my age lol) speedway boys, there is a very good chance this is a NZ made skidsteer called the Halidig made by Haliday Engineering from the 1970's-90's sadly little to nothing on the internet and the company no longer exists 

kinda cool to have a bit of NZ engineering history 

Any not much else to show for it yet..... I've wasted hrs more time at night stearing at the CAD screen trying to solve the conflicts in this Quick Attatch lol I'm always like this with my stuff.... if its for someone else bfffft.... theres your answer lol might have to sit down today and sort it hmmm

[landroversforever]

Got a better picture of the wording on the side?

[De Ranged]

On 11/26/2023 at 10:59 AM, landroversforever said:

Got a better picture of the wording on the side?

Managed by luck to track down one of the engineers who built the NZ Hallidig, sent him a picture of the machine to see if he could identify it... this is his reply 

"Hi, it is a Jenkidig, a copy? of our one,was not that well engineered so did not last very long on the market, the builder was a brick layer, so did not understand engineering that well, he told me he could build a cheaper one?? well he did, cheers, Rob"

That would fit with the average qaulity of alot of the welds and some of the silly design mistakes... like the rollcage anchors at the back are butt welded onto an edge of a 10mm plate, the stop pads between the body and the boom don't line up and there are more lol 
Unfortunatly I can't get a single hit on google for the name 

 

[landroversforever]

just find it strange that it's got that branding on it if its something else! 

[geoffbeaumont]

5 hours ago, landroversforever said:

just find it strange that it's got that branding on it if its something else! 

Unless a previous owner figured they could sell it for more if they stuck decals from a known manufacturer on it...

[De Ranged]

7 hours ago, landroversforever said:

just find it strange that it's got that branding on it if its something else! 

Company name often isn't what its marketed as over here, if that is the case using "Cat" as part of your name is a good way of piggybacking on someone elses rep lol 

Given the lack of identifiers, I'll roll with that lol If its New Zealand made it should be generic off the shelf parts.... just for the reason making parts is expensive lol and startups tend not to go to the trouble of making them 
Now I just need to finish this design for the Quick Attatch lol I got distracted by the lawns on sunday 

[landroversforever]

14 hours ago, De Ranged said:

Company name often isn't what its marketed as over here, if that is the case using "Cat" as part of your name is a good way of piggybacking on someone elses rep lol 

Given the lack of identifiers, I'll roll with that lol If its New Zealand made it should be generic off the shelf parts.... just for the reason making parts is expensive lol and startups tend not to go to the trouble of making them 
Now I just need to finish this design for the Quick Attatch lol I got distracted by the lawns on sunday 

Yeah that's fair point, and rather obvious when you say it  

[De Ranged]

On 11/28/2023 at 9:23 PM, landroversforever said:

Yeah that's fair point, and rather obvious when you say it  

Sort of forgot to update whats been going on with this

Been doing a bit of work on this LOL alot of work I should say..... started building the new quick attatch hitch (work is letting me do it after hrs as I've ended the lease on my workshop in town)
Things haven't qite gone to plane lol..... after about 10hrs of work (on the lock levers, pivots etc) I couldn't get onto the lathe at lunch so decided to pull the original hitch off.....

With a bit of thumping and leverage (I'm guessing it has be over a decade since this was used) I got the bucket off and could then strip the hitch.... thats when I noticed I shouldn't have bought this thing lol...... the boom doesn't sit straight, it took a moment to realise the was bent... but thats not really the truth of whats going on here.... it took me a couple of days to piece it all together, thats after I spotted a few other things.... some of them whilst cutting the boom apart to fix it lol
Long story short.... it has been rebuilt in the past by someone who didn't do a very good job, I'm guessing after it has been flopped on its side and bending the cross piece that tie's the left and right side of the boom together
The catch is he didn't measure twice and cut once... he also didn't jig off the machine or get the cross piece sqaure... so what I intially thought was just from a roll over turned out to be, the cross piece was around 50mm to short and one side was welded off sqaure. The result is it had pulled one side of the boom into the cab rubbing hard into a guide. It had been used like this long enough it had worn through part of the boom before they fixed it..... by cutting that corner of the ROPS cab off and bending it in! and plating the hole worn in the boom

So boom has come off got cut in half, put back on to jig on the machine widened and aligned correctly, the wear hole next to the cab has been cut out and a plate inserted, new bigger laminate plates have been put on the boom to reinforce it around the main boom ram pins (there was signs of buckling that showed it wasn't covering enough), the bucket pivots cut off and replaced with new boss's and ezi glide bushes.... as the ones on it were an odd size pin (53mm dia) and had odd size UHMWPE plastic bushes hmmm, replaced the hydralic hardlines on the boom due to rust and a good portion of the hoses (I'm not have happy with the routing of the hoses but I need this home and useable... I'll probably revisit these after I have the shed built) 

I then had to redesign my quick hitch to fit to the now wider boom lol 

The quick attatch plate is almost finished (4 little plates and a clean up before paint and mounting) I'm heading in this arvo so that will be finished and I'll start making a forklift frame for it.... hopefully bring it home tomorrow 

Had a couple of new toys arrive lately lol 

A toy for my OCD.... a lable maker lol, its fancy enough it does heat shrink... not that I like electrical stuff I was thinking about threading taps a nice clear lable on the shaft to confirm it is what it is 

spotted it on trademe for F all and surprised I got it for the price given all the people watching 

This new toy (that I don't have the time to play with yet) 

I have to say I'm really impressed with Revopoints customer service, I've had emails from them to confirm delivery, others suggesting forum groups to join to help out and online tutorials 
Also got a pile of bits from Aliexpress for a small project.... going to turn this Hilux hub/stub into a rotory weld postioner (in the process of designing it) 

Right time to go have another go at this bobcat..... Oh found a sticker inside the body of the bobcat for Voltech Engineering a engineering company that went under in 2012, so there is the Vol Cat name and the company that built it...... unfortunatly i can't find any information on stuff they built or any reference to them and skid steers 

[elbekko]

Will be interesting to see how you get on with the Range

[landroversforever]

The label printing heatshrink isn’t that hard wearing… so it would robanly not do so great on taps or anything else like that you’re using. That with genuine Dymo stuff too. It’s also faaaaaackin’ expensive for not very much length

[De Ranged]

4 hours ago, elbekko said:

Will be interesting to see how you get on with the Range

I've got to resist temptation till I've got the bobcat done.... soon 

1 hour ago, landroversforever said:

The label printing heatshrink isn’t that hard wearing… so it would robanly not do so great on taps or anything else like that you’re using. That with genuine Dymo stuff too. It’s also faaaaaackin’ expensive for not very much length

lol Ouch! I just priced up a roll of it..... $80.44+$16.75 postage, had a look on aliexpress 10 rolls for $51.36 delivered hmmm if the real deal don't last I wonder what thats going to be like 
On a positive note.... what I paid for the whole lot is pretty close to what i priced a roll of heat shrink at, and I have one thats never been used that came with it

I'll have a play with it sometime see what its like, maybe if I use some colour coding as well so if it fades its still easy to work out fine from coarse (all the wierd stuff like imperial and NPT etc it gets that little use I'd never wear anything off lol)