Gazzar Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 Anyway, with the cam gone it was time to remove the pistons. A very simple job, to be honest. Just note the orientation of the stamps on the conrods. Keep the bits in the right order and cover the threads to protect the journals. The pistons are filthy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 Then it's time to extract the crankshaft. The bolts were very, very, tight. I used the mains powered impact gun to shift them. Removing the crank wasn't easy, it's heavy and awkward, but using a cable ties as a handle made it manageable. But everything looks okay at first glance. One of the shells, at the back, is through to the backing (of the shell), but other than that I can't see any scoring or similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 So, a load of bits that need cleaning and examining. I need to buy an inside micrometer to check the cam bearings. I enjoyed striping that down. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 I'd be looking carefully at the oiling, too much of a coincidence that both lobes died on the same cylinder. On that note, using air rifle bore snakes are good for cleaning out the oil ways... https://www.airrifleshop.co.uk/products/bore-snake-rifle-cleaner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 I agree that the oiling is suspect. I'll check the oil ways. And thanks for the tip on the air rifle cleaners, exactly what I was looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 I suppose the first thing to do is clean the block and inspect it. I've bought these. I'll try use them to measure the bores. In not sure how they work, but it will be fun finding out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 Great bits of kit them! What you need to do is put it in the bore with the main shaft (with the locking end) NOT parallel to the bore of the hole, let the plungers spring out against the side and then gently nip the locking part on the end. So like this the plungers are bigger than the diameter you’re measuring. Then move the handle until it’s parallel with the axis of the bore, that will push the plungers in to the diameter of the bore. That make sense? Then just measure with either a mic or vernier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 (edited) Much fun! Close the anvils in small enough to get on the bore, tighten the end to lock them. Insert into bore, get as central as you can, loosen the end to let them spring out. "feel" for the centre, get as a straight as you can, tighten again. You should feel slight resistance as you rock in the bore in the same plane as the anvils when you've got it centred and coaxial. If you hit a spot where there's no resistance, do it again. Remove by carefully rocking the handle over and measure very carefully with a micrometer. I tend to tighten gently when I've got it central, but a few degrees off axis, then drag it through parallel with the bore, so it self centres with the resistance and gets closed the final amount as it runs through. If in any doubt, watch some of the earlier Abom79 videos where he's doing internal boring. Edit: Ninja'd by Ross, but we're both on the same track Edited December 31, 2019 by lo-fi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 Ninjas! Thank you both. I understand what you are proposing, and I'll have a go at this tomorrow. Today is domestic jobs day. And fixing the door of the workshop whilst I can run the grinder in the day time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 The important thing for an accurate measurement is that the bore pushes it IN to the right dimension. Tightening the end with it square in the bore will give all sorts of numbers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 1 hour ago, landroversforever said: The important thing for an accurate measurement is that the bore pushes it IN to the right dimension. Tightening the end with it square in the bore will give all sorts of numbers! So, get it nearly there, at 80 degrees, tighten the lock (a bit), then get the gauge perpendicular to the top deck, forcing the ends in further under the resistance of the lock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 I'm presuming that seeing the cross hatching from the original honing is a good sign? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 Looks to be fairly good condition, cross hatching in the bores is good. You'll enjoy putting that back together with nice clean & new parts, I certainly did when I rebuilt my 200tdi, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 1 hour ago, Gazzar said: So, get it nearly there, at 80 degrees, tighten the lock (a bit), then get the gauge perpendicular to the top deck, forcing the ends in further under the resistance of the lock? Yeah! All I’d say is check it at a few angles across the cylinders incase they’ve worn unevenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 Ovality, got you! I should be able to check the cam shaft bearings with these, shouldn't I? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 1 hour ago, western said: Looks to be fairly good condition, cross hatching in the bores is good. You'll enjoy putting that back together with nice clean & new parts, I certainly did when I rebuilt my 200tdi, I will! I'm already eyeing up the wrecked 2a scrap block in the yard.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 3 hours ago, Gazzar said: Ovality, got you! I should be able to check the cam shaft bearings with these, shouldn't I? Can't hurt, especially if potentially suspect oiling of cylinder 4 lobes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 5 hours ago, Gazzar said: Ovality, got you! I should be able to check the cam shaft bearings with these, shouldn't I? Yeah! The only time you can struggle with these is when the bore isn’t long enough to get it cocked over enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 I think these bolts and screws need to come out, so that I can clean the oil gallery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Exactly the sort of work I enjoy too! I reading with interest, and will be closely following the late stages with the ignition and fuel changes - I didn’t understand much of what the previous discussion led to, knowing nothing about EFI or electronic ignition, so it’ll be very educational for me, but any Series vehicle I do in the future will be going that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 That's part of the fun. I understand carbs and distributors. I don't like them from a tuning and self correcting perspective, but I understand them. I don't understand the kit used on EFI, but that's just a lack of knowledge, so I'm looking forward to that gaining that expertise. Here's a question: Will a mechanical lift pump keep a 2 litre surge pot filled enough for a high pressure pump? Pump in tank If it can keep a carb going, why can't it keep an injector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Yes, should be fine. You only need fuel for a given amount of horsepower, so unless you are going bonkers then a standard carb fuel will be fine. That said, using an in-tank pump is easy less plumbing, cheaper, uses less under bonnet space, and far, far quieter. The Range Rover 3.5 efi pump is a popular choice. So I would go with that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 I didn't find this so, cutting the tank for a rrc pump didn't work for me. Plus the pump pickup had to be extended. It became complex/fast. If I can avoid electrics and too much plumbing in the tank area it's easier for me. Plus the swirl tank can sit nicely on the passenger footwell, where the tool box would go. I'm not against the idea, but the tank on the bulkhead just looks easier to build and repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 On that topic, is a return necessary from the swirl tank? I understand the return from the injector, but can the lift pump cope with a full swirl tank? Would the swirl tank pressurise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 3 hours ago, Gazzar said: On that topic, is a return necessary from the swirl tank? I understand the return from the injector, but can the lift pump cope with a full swirl tank? Would the swirl tank pressurise? It's got to have some way of letting the vapour etc. off the top otherwise there's no point having it. Plumbing the return line to tee into the swirl pot return is how I've done it. So the route goes: Tank - lift pump - swirl pot feed - swirl pot out - HP pump - fuel rail - fuel regulator - return line - swirl pot return - return to tank Obviously with a filter or two in there But as standard LR just put a HP pump in the tank and call it done, and there's a lot to be said for that (I will move to this way one day for simplified plumbing). BTW there's some nice neat alloy swirl pots with HP pumps sat inside them coming out of eBlag China - I don't trust the pump at all but it's a Bosch copy and having a pump sat in a bucket of fuel saves some plumbing and looks neat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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