simonpelly Posted December 4, 2020 Author Share Posted December 4, 2020 Hi Mike, Thanks for the thoughts. Had planned to remove and clean the intercooler too. Thanks for details on your cleaning procedure. Will report back 🙂 With respect to what is causing the mess, sigh. Suspect will add to the list giving the rocker cover some attention, new gasket, clean breather hoses, new cyclone rubber washer, new manifold gaskets, etc... On the plus side, get to spend more time in the garage with a cuppa and gold FM. In all of this, hopefully the turbo is in good order. I'll have the exhaust manifold hopefully out later today and have a look. Simon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 Simon, take a look at the rest of the induction system for deposits and that should tell you where it’s coming from - it has to be breather, turbo or EGR system, and the latter shouldn’t be that wet.  If the intake ducting to the turbo is clean, it must be the compressor seals.  If it’s dirty, then it’s likely breathing hard or the cyclonic breather is faulty (it has a spring loaded diaphragm under the cap that cycles with crank case pressure, which could be seized or torn).  That should show deposits downstream of the hose connection into the induction system, but little upstream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpelly Posted December 5, 2020 Author Share Posted December 5, 2020 Thanks Snagger. Took the filter box and intake ducting to the turbo off this afternoon. The ducting to the turbo is indeed dirty. In fact, the feed in from the cyclone breather to the intake ducting is dirty. Going to assume somewhere upstream of that including the cyclone breather is at fault. Tried to do more of a clean up today on the side of the engine block. Managed to get my hands on a borescope camera and peaked inside the inlet ports - will upload some images when can figure out how to get them downloaded. They are *really* dirty. Wondering whether to take the plunge and remove the cylinder head. Simon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 If you've got the time to do it then take off the head. Give it a good clean up and inspection. You can lap the valves and get a new cyclonic breather. Refit using an Elring gasket. You will then be safe in the knowledge that you have done a thorough job. Also with the head off you can have a look at the bores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpelly Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share Posted December 6, 2020 Managed to get the image off the borescope. This is number 1 inlet port. Really dirty. Been too busy with "DIY" to make any more progress today - other than trying to figure out how to get a parts order "under the radar". Simon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 I have my van in the garage at the moment with a dificult starting issue, mainly low fuel pressure so it's not firing on turn over. mechanic thinks it may be a valve issue on cylinder 3 ( low compression ) and we talked about removing the head to get a good look. He told me he has a tool which he can use from the inlet side of the head to clean the valves to make sure they seat without removal. If such a thing exists, perhaps that might be a way without having to remove the head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 That sounds like a magic wand, snake oil to me. It probably cures piston slap, cracked rings, and all sorts of other problems!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 He might be planning to brush neat decoding additive to the valves through the ports to remove deposits.  I can’t see what else you can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 I don't know what it is as i've not spoken with him since last week, but he's not a bull****ter, so i believe he had a way of doing it. I'll find out some details when i see him next 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Maybe a steam cleaner with a vacuum line to suck the rubbish straight out? That would be very useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigstevemex Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Hi the magic machine he is referring to is probably walnut shell blasting. with the valve closed it blasts in crushed walnut shells at high pressure and vacuums it out at the same time. Its a common practice now on modern engines that do not have the injector behind the valve. Have a look on YouTube there is loads on it there. I have done them with the valve shut and foaming oven cleaner and a borescope and seal picks to scrape off the worst of it. you must make sure that whatever you use to clear the residue out (I use brake cleaner)does not leak down into the cylinders or you will have a runaway or hydraulic lock. And be careful with the caustic solution.  regards Steve  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex.hice@gmail.com Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 Think it's about time I do this to my 110. Having read many threads, I assume I will need to change the gasket since it's crushed. Would it be safe to just reuse it? Maybe add some gasket maker on top? I don't want to mess with the exhaust manifold just yet and possibly create a whole separate issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 2 hours ago, alex.hice@gmail.com said: Think it's about time I do this to my 110. Having read many threads, I assume I will need to change the gasket since it's crushed. Would it be safe to just reuse it? Maybe add some gasket maker on top? I don't want to mess with the exhaust manifold just yet and possibly create a whole separate issue. Yes, that looks like it will benefit from cleaning. To do the job properly it will have to be removed which means using a new gasket, if you skimp on this important step you are likely to not get a proper seal when you put the manifold back on after the cleaning. I think the only challenge you may have is stubborn fixings holding the manifolds to the head. Spray each bolt with plenty of penetrating fluid 24 hours before undoing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpelly Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 Echo the above. Worth changing the gasket. It's a little more work but removing completely the exhaust manifold made it much easier. Bigger job but worth the effort. You can give the block a thorough cleaning too. Simon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 The exhaust nuts are easy pretty to remove except for the one under the middle. I'd check you can get something on that to turn it before starting, otherwise it's straightforward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 Yes, 3/8" drive makes it easier to get to the one @cackshiftermentions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 22 minutes ago, Peaklander said: Yes, 3/8" drive makes it easier to get to the one @cackshiftermentions. ...And a wobble bar helps too. Oh and young fingers really help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex.hice@gmail.com Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 Thanks for all the advice. I will get the gasket, but should I also get all new hardware (bolts, nuts, etc) for the reinstallation? Just a bit apprehensive to take it all apart after 25 years of heat cycles. 🤒 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 It's not a bad idea to have all new fasteners waiting. Especially if you're likely to need the car up and running quickly and can't wait for parts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex.hice@gmail.com Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 1 minute ago, landroversforever said: It's not a bad idea to have all new fasteners waiting. Especially if you're likely to need the car up and running quickly and can't wait for parts. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northwards Posted July 8, 2021 Share Posted July 8, 2021 Hi folks, I posted the guts of this elsewhere - but it was on an ancient thread and it wasn't picked up - so as this is more recent I'll give it a go here. I'm helping a friend do a bulkhead swap on his 1998 300Tdi and I noticed his EGR assembly is still in place. All a bit new to me as my '94 vehicle didn't have one (or had been removed long before I got it). I've read through this thread and others, and I think I'm pretty much up to speed on the "mechanical" aspects of this - blanking plate; sort the inlet hose; clean up the manifold and intercooler; etc - but there's less said on the electrical/control side. Can I confirm we just bin all the wiring/relay and other associated gubbins? If the wiring to the injector pump is unnecessary, then the cables and relays can just be completely removed? Secondly, is there a consensus on the question of the 2018 MOT changes and that it's a fail if any emissions kit is removed? If it's done properly, with new hoses and electrical gubbins removed, how would anyone know - apart from the very fact that new hoses and blanking plate might look shiny? Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpelly Posted July 9, 2021 Author Share Posted July 9, 2021 14 hours ago, Northwards said: Can I confirm we just bin all the wiring/relay and other associated gubbins? If the wiring to the injector pump is unnecessary, then the cables and relays can just be completely removed? For our 300 Tdi, the following was disconnected: Cable to the EGR valve solenoid White wire on the alternator Throttle sensor and connector Thermostat connector on top of the engine bock Connector to EGR actuator ECU and 3 pin socket (under middle seat) Currently have them all tied out of the way. At some point will actually remove them fully from the harness. Did not want to permanently remove all at once in case I misunderstood the wiring diagram. Simon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northwards Posted July 9, 2021 Share Posted July 9, 2021 Thanks Simon, I'll make a note of that. Funny to think of Tdi vehicles with an ECU. Can I ask if you had any MOT issues, or is that something for the future? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpelly Posted July 9, 2021 Author Share Posted July 9, 2021 One for the future - October for me. That said, I would argue that since removing the EGR and cleaning up manifolds, cylinder head refurb, etc... it runs cleaner than ever. Simon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northwards Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 Ta. My mate is a bit more risk averse than me, so might still need a little persuading that he's not going to get caught out. But I agree that it's likely to run cleaner without 20 y/o EGR stuff all caked in oily soot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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