landroversforever Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 I've been looking at some of the next bits of the 90 project... one of which being the state of the rear tub. Currently, it's 'complete' but the LH rear quarter is in some way separate to the part which joins the left and right across the back of the car and the LH rear quarter has the shape of the crossmember bracket worn through it. So without delving into it at all yet, I think it's going to want at least the rear left panel changing. I haven't got a spot welding facility (either conventional or with TIG as mine is DC only). A colleague at work has done his on his 100" project by bonding the joint and also using countersunk rivets underneath the corner capping. So who's replaced panels on a tub? How did you do it? What to watch out for? If you bonded bits, what did you use? I think for the front face that mounts to the tubular outriggers (its a 90) I'm going to enlist a mate with an AC TIG and let in some fresh metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 Also, a strange one, has anyone seen a bulkhead in the tub without these rectangles in it? Mine's plain at that point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Yep got them in mine Ross , as for the rear panels I riveted mine in there's a rite up in my build thread pages 5 and 6 is where I did the tub , but there isn't many spot welds underneath the capping I actually marked them on the panels in a couple of the photo's so people would know where they where . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 Thanks Ian! Will have a look through your thread. This is the 90 thread right? I think it's fair to say I've found rather a mess under my corner cappings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Yes mate the 90 thread , you’ll have to put some pics up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 6 hours ago, landroversforever said: If you bonded bits, what did you use? Sikaflex? After all @miketomcat glues boats together with it In all seriousness the floors / wheel arches were a bit ropey on mine and I just cut a new sheet of ali, painted it and stuck it on with Sikaflex (maybe 221) and it's been fine for 6+ years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 The aluminium panels on my ibex are bonded on with tiger seal I believe. I have bonded panels with sikaflex, Saba and tiger seal. Both sika and tiger are polyurethane sealants, Saba is an MS polymer (I'm not sure of the difference). Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 3 minutes ago, miketomcat said: The aluminium panels on my ibex are bonded on with tiger seal I believe. I have bonded panels with sikaflex, Saba and tiger seal. Both sika and tiger are polyurethane sealants, Saba is an MS polymer (I'm not sure of the difference). Mike Which would you recommend or all much of a muchness Mike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Much of a muchness sika bonds better if you use the correct primer for the substrate and bear in mind it cures 1mm per day. Saba doesn't have primers but is harder to get hold of and has a strange cure, excess seems to just peel off the next day but leave it a week and your cutting it back. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Wuth bond and seal is also another good bonding medium, you can also get a primer for it that you paint on before you apply it. Evidently this is what VW use for all there vehicle bonding. Having used Tiger seal and the Wurth stuff, they are very similar except I'd say the wurth stuff it easier to work with, its not quite as stiff/viscous at Tiger seal. I re skinned the back right side panel and the rear quarter panel on my 90 during the original re-build - I just replaced the original spot welds with closed rivets - a couple of pictures here: Diamond in the rough... - Page 2 - Members Vehicles Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 I've seen those hatch plates on some bulkheads before, but not on all. I think they might be from a military spin off type use for the likes of winterised vehicles have the heating in the back etc and use the hatches for pipework access? Like I say I've seen before but don't know what they're for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 27 minutes ago, Maverik said: I've seen those hatch plates on some bulkheads before, but not on all. I think they might be from a military spin off type use for the likes of winterised vehicles have the heating in the back etc and use the hatches for pipework access? Like I say I've seen before but don't know what they're for. It's interesting as I've never seen a bulkhead without them before! My first thought was that it had been replaced, but the ends where they meet the side panels all look far too factory to have been messed with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 Thanks for the info on the bonding stuff... Will have to do some more reading. Will update the project thread and this one with some pictures of what I'm dealing with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Ross, have a look back through my project thread, I did quite a bit of work on the rear tub. PU adhesive and rivets worked for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 I put ally wire into my mig and just let in new sections of metal where I needed it. Worked very well. see the pics I added to your other thread. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 For those that have delved into it... what sets the height of the angled bit that runs left to right across the rear bottom edge of the tub? Height in relation to the tub. Everything I've got here is loose so I don't know what should and shouldn't be touching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 On 12/8/2020 at 10:23 AM, Maverik said: I've seen those hatch plates on some bulkheads before, but not on all. I think they might be from a military spin off type use for the likes of winterised vehicles have the heating in the back etc and use the hatches for pipework access? Like I say I've seen before but don't know what they're for. All rear bulkhead have them, even chassis cabs. They are required for the spotwelder arms to access the tub floor when the tub is constructed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 2 hours ago, oneandtwo said: All rear bulkhead have them, even chassis cabs. They are required for the spotwelder arms to access the tub floor when the tub is constructed. Interesting! I've since seen a couple of other tubs without them. Mine's all riveted to the seatbox join. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 On 12/9/2020 at 2:05 PM, oneandtwo said: All rear bulkhead have them, even chassis cabs. They are required for the spotwelder arms to access the tub floor when the tub is constructed. Hmm, not disputing this but more devils advocate evidence suggests this isn't quite right, certainly not all bulkheads have them as my 1986 vehicle doesn't, and I don't think they are that particularly challenging spot welds that would require such hatches. if it was welding technology based then you'd have have though older trucks have them then later not, but again I don't think its like that. I got a pic of one of my Td5 project (2003) that did have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 11, 2020 Author Share Posted December 11, 2020 1 hour ago, Maverik said: Hmm, not disputing this but more devils advocate evidence suggests this isn't quite right, certainly not all bulkheads have them as my 1986 vehicle doesn't, and I don't think they are that particularly challenging spot welds that would require such hatches. if it was welding technology based then you'd have have though older trucks have them then later not, but again I don't think its like that. I got a pic of one of my Td5 project (2003) that did have them. I had a look last night at a much later puma tub and that's still got the pop rivets arch-to-bulkhead which would be the place to reach spotwelds. Wonder if the later floors are spot welded in rather than riveted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 Re the glue I have used methacrylate (such as Plexus MA300; not cheapest but it sets very quickly which might be an advantage) as that is what YRM use 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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