sgo70 Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 Everything haha. I'm no expert, this is probably one of my weak points that I'm trying to work through on my build and I'm dealing with a complete Frankenstein. I added an Eaton Bussman fuse box, it's waterproof, 10 relays and 42 fused slots, sits at the rear on the bulkhead. I also put another mini one in the cab for power windows and heated seats. It holds 5 relays and I think 10 fuses but they have all different sizes and connect with Metripack 280 terminals. For higher loads I used the mini ANL fuse holders from Knuconcepts, good for up to 300 amps. I'll be chopping just about every plug and converting them to Metripack plugs. I think my only unfused connections are the starter and the winch, but the winch has a cut-off. Sean 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 31 minutes ago, western said: Need to measure the glowplug amp draw to figure out what fuse rating you would need, I will measure. IIRC they are fed off 60 AMP rated wire. I guess about 10amp draw each? So a 50 amp fuse should cover me. But that's all guess work. I will measure to be sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 25 minutes ago, sgo70 said: Everything haha. I'm no expert, this is probably one of my weak points that I'm trying to work through on my build and I'm dealing with a complete Frankenstein. I added an Eaton Bussman fuse box, it's waterproof, 10 relays and 42 fused slots, sits at the rear on the bulkhead. I also put another mini one in the cab for power windows and heated seats. It holds 5 relays and I think 10 fuses but they have all different sizes and connect with Metripack 280 terminals. For higher loads I used the mini ANL fuse holders from Knuconcepts, good for up to 300 amps. I'll be chopping just about every plug and converting them to Metripack plugs. I think my only unfused connections are the starter and the winch, but the winch has a cut-off. Sean Wow, that's a very tidy engine bay. Mine looks like mess in comparison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 On my original loom, the wires are joined and soldered with the the crimps in the picture below. I have tried searching on all auto wiring websites I know of (autoaparks being one of them) but can't find them. Does anyone know where I can source them please and what they are called? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Not sure but a close equivalent would be an uninsulated butt crimp. Fnarr. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 They're available from numerous places, usually in 100's. I have them in a couple of sizes @ £0.10 each. However, you can make them from a 6.3mm terminal, by snipping off the receptacle and insulation crimp. I'm pretty sure that I posted it on here once before. When I find it, I'll post a link to it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said: Not sure but a close equivalent would be an uninsulated butt crimp. Fnarr. That's all I can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 1 hour ago, PaulMc said: However, you can make them from a 6.3mm terminal, by snipping off the receptacle and insulation crimp Thank you, that is so obvious now you say it! I will do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 However much time you think you will need, double it! I have nothing more to add than what has been said apart from try and get the glue lined heat shrink with the highest shrink ratio you can, a lot of cheap stuff is only 2:1 where's as 3:1 and upwards gives much more scope when shrinking over different sizes/amounts of wires. Al and the Skid factory on YouTube has done some pretty good wiring videos. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Here's the thread that I posted in - https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/80056-roof-bar-light-wiring-advice-needed/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 I'm very much committed now. I took the loom out of the 110 just before Christmas, I have taken drawings, measurements, compared sections I'm not sure of with circuit diagrams and made my own diagrams to help. The loom is now broken down into component parts by circuit sat in a box in my dining room for me to use as a reference. I am now drawing up a list of the things I need to order to make a new loom with upgrades such as econoseal connectors and relays for glowplugs, head lights and wipers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Rule of thumb: it takes ~10m of wire to run from one end of a 110 to the other, and ~5m to run from one side to the other. Don't buy any length shorter than that, it's not worth the 50p saving to end up a few inches short. For stuff like indicators it's worth adding extra as you need the same colour(s) for the repeaters, the dashboard wiring for the switch, the warning lights, hazard switch, etc... it adds up very quickly! By the time you've routed stuff nicely, loomed/clipped it up, gone around/over/under/through/behind things you can lose metres of wire shockingly easily. On my rewire I started at the corners, made all the connections and then gradually loomed stuff up as I headed towards the dash. I still ended up going back and adding wires I'd forgotten I needed I loomed stuff up loosely using a cheap party-sized sack of 1000 small cable ties, these are 100% sacrificial. As you go through you go back and cut them off if you need to make changes / add wires, then once it's all in and working you go back and either replace them with proper thicker black ones and/or loom the harness up with Tesa tape or whatever you're using. I bought a ~100m reel of 1mm black for the grounds plus 30m reels of brown & white, but then I keep a lot of that stuff in my collection from doing far too many rewires 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 Thank you for the tips. I am going to buy a full reel of black wire for the earths as I am going to add an earth to each corner to connect to the gearbox. It is amazing how much wire is needed when it's all added up. To go from the connectors on the main harness to the rear off side for the chassis harness I think I measured 5m but bought 7m to play it safe. I'm worried now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Something to bear in mind, Using good quality non flammable loom tape, and binding the wires nice and tight, is more than just cosmetic. I used to run an Auto electrical company in Birmingham, and so got to see the results of loads of electrical shorts. If the wires are loose taped, or even worse, loose in plastic conduit, the burn will travel right through the loom making a right mess, as there is plenty of oxygen. If the loom is tight, you usually get just one burnt wire, and not too much mess. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 Thank you for the advice, points noted. I made my own engine harness a while ago now as a practice run using the correct loom tape, not cheap insulation tape and as you say I ensured it was tightly bound by the tape. As I have dissected the main harness (my biggest problem being the bodges round the fuse box) I have come to the realisation that it is really just a bundle of lots of little looms all combined. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 I need to make up a loom for my fuel pump. Does anyone know the name of the plug that fits into the pump or a supplier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 PaulMc will probably know & most likely be able to supply or give you a suppliers name 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 26 minutes ago, western said: PaulMc will probably know & most likely be able to supply or give you a suppliers name Cheers 👍 @PaulMc can you assist please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 It's a BMW connector, I recently posted details, here - https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/108548-td5-fuel-pump-connector/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 10 minutes ago, PaulMc said: It's a BMW connector, I recently posted details, here - https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/108548-td5-fuel-pump-connector/ Brilliant thanks, now I need to find a BMW dealer who will sell online...🤔 Would the 1.0 - 2.5mm size pins and seals be correct for a fuel pump? I’m to sure what current the pump will draw. It’s the high pressure one off a Thor V8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 I'm pretty sure that the factory wiring is 4.0mm2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 7 hours ago, PaulMc said: I'm pretty sure that the factory wiring is 4.0mm2 4mm2 for a fuel pump? That's 30-40A rating ...then I checked the RAVE manual for the Disco 2 and it does indeed have a 30A fuse on the fuel pump so lord knows what's going on there, both my EFI pumps run from 10A fuses. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said: 4mm2 for a fuel pump? That's 30-40A rating ...then I checked the RAVE manual for the Disco 2 and it does indeed have a 30A fuse on the fuel pump so lord knows what's going on there, both my EFI pumps run from 10A fuses. The Thor runs higher fuel pressures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 30 minutes ago, Bigj66 said: The Thor runs higher fuel pressures. *slightly* higher, not 3-4x higher which is why I'm surprised at the 30A fuse. If you tweak the regulator any of the EFi pumps will manage the extra 5-10psi, if you clamp the return they'll hit 100psi allegedly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 I've just checked the wiring diagrams - Discovery-2 TD5 and V8 use 3.0mm2 1999MY Defender TD5 uses 3.0mm2 2002MY Defender TD5 uses 4.0mm2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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