Bigj66 Posted February 19, 2021 Share Posted February 19, 2021 9 minutes ago, monkie said: I got my wires from Autosparks. The "normal" wires are 1mm2, the thicker ones for the headlights for example or 2mm2 and the beefy 60amp stuff is 8.50mm2. There does seem to be about 3 different sizes in use from what I can see on the looms. The blue/red, blue/purple ones in my photo would be the 1.0mm? The brown/pink, brown/orange 2.0mm? And the brown with the red dash 3.0mm? I’m also looking on the Autosparks site as I’m hoping to try and match the colours I have on the loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 19, 2021 Share Posted February 19, 2021 It's not perfectly accurate, but should give you a ball-park idea.... twist a stripped end (if you've got one) and measure the diameter. Can calculate the rough cross section then. If you're then comparing wires at a later date, just watch the differing thickness' of the insulation so it doesn't throw you off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 19, 2021 Author Share Posted February 19, 2021 4 minutes ago, Bigj66 said: There does seem to be about 3 different sizes in use from what I can see on the looms. The blue/red, blue/purple ones in my photo would be the 1.0mm? The brown/pink, brown/orange 2.0mm? And the brown with the red dash 3.0mm? I’m also looking on the Autosparks site as I’m hoping to try and match the colours I have on the loom. The fuse rating on the circuit might also help you. The 1mm2 takes just over 8amp and the 2mm2 wire is rated to 17amp. The piddly little wires to the instrument lights on the dash are about 5amp wire 0.65mm2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted February 19, 2021 Share Posted February 19, 2021 I found this site a few years ago might be of use. http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/WireSizeCalc.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 (edited) To complement ballcock's link I found this on the web, but can't remember where, a while ago. I now use it as a very good guide for cable selection since I'm making my own complete wiring looms for my 110 CSW. AUTOMOTIVE WIRE AMPERAGE CAPACITY CHART.doc Mike Edited February 20, 2021 by Troll Hunter Added detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 The document link doesn't work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 20 hours ago, monkie said: The fuse rating on the circuit might also help you. The 1mm2 takes just over 8amp and the 2mm2 wire is rated to 17amp. The piddly little wires to the instrument lights on the dash are about 5amp wire 0.65mm2 Not sure where you sourced your data from, but multi-stranded single core copper wire will give you 16.5A for 1mm2, 25A for 2mm2 and 33A for 3mm2. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 20, 2021 Author Share Posted February 20, 2021 4 minutes ago, SteveG said: Not sure where you sourced your data from, but multi-stranded single core copper wire will give you 16.5A for 1mm2, 25A for 2mm2 and 33A for 3mm2. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 21 minutes ago, SteveG said: Not sure where you sourced your data from, but multi-stranded single core copper wire will give you 16.5A for 1mm2, 25A for 2mm2 and 33A for 3mm2. 👍 That will be for the thin wall stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 1 hour ago, monkie said: This is the same as I’m buying 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 (edited) This one is a little bit conservative, but then I guess you guys have to convert it to mm2: Edited February 20, 2021 by sgo70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 3 hours ago, landroversforever said: That will be for the thin wall stuff? Yes it is, not sure why you’d be using anything but in this day and age. PVC hasn’t been used in automotive manufacturing for the last 20 years at least, probably more. Not sure why Autosparks would recommend it for a new loom build. PVC has less chemical resistance, lower range of temps and as you can see about half the load rating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 7 hours ago, western said: The document link doesn't work Sorry, I don't know why that link didn't work, but sgo70 has already posted the same data. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 FridgeFreezer made this wire size calculator a while back: http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/tools/cablecalc.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 20, 2021 Author Share Posted February 20, 2021 40 minutes ago, elbekko said: FridgeFreezer made this wire size calculator a while back: http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/tools/cablecalc.html That is brilliant, thanks for posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 Thats awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 Still making progress. The main loom is nearing completion, I just need to connect all the dash warning lamps to complete it. I got a set of Wipac LED side lights and indicators. I was disappointed to see how they were supplied: The length of wire was ridiculously short, they had used none genuine AMP connectors, and the wires had not followed a Lucas wiring colour code when they are sold as suitable for Land Rover. I spent a little time putting this right before I fit them to my 110. A bit annoying really as I had bought them as ready to fit, or so I thought. In the unlikely event should anyone who makes the Wipac lights ever sees this thread.. this is how they should be supplied please... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 A polite email to wipac wouldn't hurt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 5 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: A polite email to wipac wouldn't hurt Good idea, I shall. When the indicators for the rear are offered up it is immediately obvious the wires wouldn't even poke up through the tub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 (edited) Since i restored my Oneten i think about new electrification. It is an old car and therefore i always tried to avoid LED. I have made some looms for motorcycles. That means i am not unexperienced. There are two options: originally with no LED really modern with a center unit used at motorcycles like m-unit from motogadget and LED. They are simply better in any respect I know that there will be some things to change or to extend, but basics are in and really good. Hmmmm ... I would then do without the plugs for the indicators and lights completely. I have my Oneten since 14 years now and only had to disconnect them once. If you use a good quality of lights, there is no need for connectors. Once in 14 years i can use a soldering iron as well. I believe, the mass of connectors are especially for building them easily in the factory. Most of them are not necessary in using the car. Edited February 28, 2021 by Sigi_H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 In theory I see your point. However, what if I need to remove the front wing for maintenance work or a light gets damaged. The connectors make these little jobs so much more straight forward. This is why I have opted for good quality weather proof connectors over the original bullet type. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 I see your point too. That's the decision everybody have to make himself. I never had to use the connectors to much and each connector is a weak point. My biggest concern is, what happens, when the M-Unit fails? With the Diesel it seems to be quite easy. Just connect the injection pump and the engine will run. But what about the starter? There will be a lot of things to consider. But if it works all cabling will be a lot easier. Even fuses are in the M-Unit and electronically. It seems to need a lot of thinking 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 With the standard electrics on a land rover I think the earths are the weakest point. I think if that's the only thing you tackle then you will have made big improvements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 (edited) In my Oneten this seems to be different. Cables are to solid and connectors are really bad. A complete electrification with a M-Unit could solve all that and be at least easier than putting original looms in. As i said i have to think about it. Edited February 28, 2021 by Sigi_H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Good to hear you're still trucking along. Connectors have been a headache for me, I can't find them anywhere over here in Canada so I've been chopping them all off and putting Weatherpack connectors on everything. They're easy to find, waterproof, and they lock tightly together and plugs are 1-5 terminals. The only ones I can't do that to is the side front marker lights, I'm thinking of soldering on wires to the terminals and then using potting fluid inside the housing instead of a plug then from there I can add another Weatherpack connector. Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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