Bigj66 Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 Does anyone have the WOR kit in the front of their R380 Defender? If so how are the various covers divided up between the seatbox, tunnel and bulkhead? Are they 3 separate items or are some of them integrated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 Three items - one complete across the footwells and gearbox tunnel, one that wraps around the bulkhead behind the fusebox and one for the seatbox. Mine is for an lt77 tunnel but I put some pics up in a recent thread. I am pretty sure the r380 version is the same, but slightly different shape for the tunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 http://www.wrightoffroad.com/r380_mat.htm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 3 hours ago, reb78 said: Three items - one complete across the footwells and gearbox tunnel, one that wraps around the bulkhead behind the fusebox and one for the seatbox. Mine is for an lt77 tunnel but I put some pics up in a recent thread. I am pretty sure the r380 version is the same, but slightly different shape for the tunnel. Cheers. I have a set for my Series 3 but I’ve now changed the seatbox and tunnel so it won’t fit any longer. I’ll get a defender set 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 Speak to the owner directly and you will get a discount over going to Exmoor trim 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 4 hours ago, reb78 said: http://www.wrightoffroad.com/r380_mat.htm Is the cut out for the hand brake and gear levers already removed or is it blank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 Hi Big66, I'm in the process of fitting mine (lt77) at the moment. The hand brake needs cut out, the gearbox is already cut out/formed to fit the "mouth" that comes up through the tunnel for the gearstick/transfer stick. HTH G 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 The handbrake just needs three holes. It doesnt need a cut out. As gruntus says, the gear lever one is already there. Think carefully about the seatbox lid cut outs. I should have made mine bigger - i made them the same size as the box lids and that was a mistake - its a right pain to refit them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 I can use the seatbox one but not the tunnel unless I can find a way to modify the transfer lever to remove that big lump in the middle. Some sort of joint I think but I can’t see how it comes apart. If not then I’ll need to modify that aperture where the transfer lever pokes out which will mean I can’t use the tunnel matting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 The kit comes with three or five parts - seat base, bulkhead centre and the foot well/tunnel cover. The Defender kits come with the outboard click panels, I think. Maybe they’re just optional. The seat base section used to be identical for all models, with guide lines printed on the underside for each different version, showing where to cut. I don’t know if that is still the case, but it was an efficient and flexible way to make them, so there is no reason to have changed that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 This is the problem I need to sort out. The whole lever has already been moved forward of its original position as far as the operating levers will allow. The joint in the lever stem where it’s marked in yellow hits the rear of the tunnel aperture before high range is fully engaged. If I could remove that joint and replace it with a cranked straight rod to bring it forward then I could probably leave the tunnel standard and use the defender R380 matting kit. Does anyone know a way to split that joint in the lever? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 It’s not the ideal solution, especially with expensive cosmetic parts, but you could move that lip aft a little and cut the matting aperture a bit bigger. If you’re planning to use a rubber top cover over the aperture, genuine or the single lever aftermarket special, then you’d have to move the whole aperture, which could be done by adding the material removed from the back edge to the front of the aperture. It’d need careful cutting with a sharp blade, but bonding back in with grey or black Tiger Seal would give a strong bond and would be close to the right colour, and Drew was very practical in choosing standard colours for the polyurethane, the dark grey being RAL02 for a paint match. He reckons that plain acrylic aerosol will stick, but if in doubt, some PIO from Buzzweld in that colour would, work. If that join is not neat enough for you to leave after the above, then you could cover it with some kind of storage tray. Like I said, not ideal, but I think you’d get good results with a little of the patience you’ve shown so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 54 minutes ago, Snagger said: It’s not the ideal solution, especially with expensive cosmetic parts, but you could move that lip aft a little and cut the matting aperture a bit bigger. If you’re planning to use a rubber top cover over the aperture, genuine or the single lever aftermarket special, then you’d have to move the whole aperture, which could be done by adding the material removed from the back edge to the front of the aperture. It’d need careful cutting with a sharp blade, but bonding back in with grey or black Tiger Seal would give a strong bond and would be close to the right colour, and Drew was very practical in choosing standard colours for the polyurethane, the dark grey being RAL02 for a paint match. He reckons that plain acrylic aerosol will stick, but if in doubt, some PIO from Buzzweld in that colour would, work. If that join is not neat enough for you to leave after the above, then you could cover it with some kind of storage tray. Like I said, not ideal, but I think you’d get good results with a little of the patience you’ve shown so far. That’s been my plan A but I was also looking at modifying the lever if possible to avoid that but with that joint there it’s difficult. My plan is to use the Ashcroft single hole cover but I’m also thinking of using that available space where the gear lever used to be for cup holders and storage so I may end up with a different matting solution. I’ll carry on pondering 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 I think that joint is just bonded in rubber, as a NVH mitigator, if you remove the lever, some heat and a hammer will get it out. Then you could weld on a stick whatever shape you wanted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 Since you can’t move the lever any further, if you want to use the Ashcroft gaiter, you need to move the aperture. With a little molding of the PU adhesive, I think you’d get a subtle joint and a spray of the paint would hide it almost completely. I think you need to post up more photos of the lever, mount and link to get ideas for moving that and keeping the tunnel, mat and gaiter standards if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 1 minute ago, Bowie69 said: I think that joint is just bonded in rubber, as a NVH mitigator, if you remove the lever, some heat and a hammer will get it out. Then you could weld on a stick whatever shape you wanted. That’s what I needed to clarify cheers. I think I only need about 10mm to get it to work as is without modifying the tunnel. If that won’t work then the tunnel aperture will need to move rearward. I’m not overly concerned about the finish as the tunnel will either be covered or in any case, painted marine blue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 If it were me I'd be looking to modify the lever assy to put the lever in the same place as the hole in the rubber. I wouldn't want to be modifying the aperture because you can't finish it nicely then. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 I’m taking another look at the linkage to see if I can do more with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 1 hour ago, Mo Murphy said: If it were me I'd be looking to modify the lever assy to put the lever in the same place as the hole in the rubber. I wouldn't want to be modifying the aperture because you can't finish it nicely then. Mo I would second this approach and as far as possible stick with off the shelf trim parts. How much further forward will the high-low / diff lock selector need to be to put it in a "standard position"? If there isn't enough length in the rod for the high-low selector, a suitable one could be made from threaded rod. The bottom end of the diff lock actuator possibly could be extended with a welded on tab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 1 hour ago, DaveSIIA said: I would second this approach and as far as possible stick with off the shelf trim parts. How much further forward will the high-low / diff lock selector need to be to put it in a "standard position"? If there isn't enough length in the rod for the high-low selector, a suitable one could be made from threaded rod. The bottom end of the diff lock actuator possibly could be extended with a welded on tab. This is the bit I’m focusing on but I need to take it apart to see what options are open to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 Something like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 49 minutes ago, Bigj66 said: Something like this The thread on that looks a bit short to work with the high-low link. Work out how much extension you need and make a complete linkage out of M8 threaded rod or run some threads on 8mm bar. Keep the solution simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 49 minutes ago, DaveSIIA said: The thread on that looks a bit short to work with the high-low link. Work out how much extension you need and make a complete linkage out of M8 threaded rod or run some threads on 8mm bar. Keep the solution simple. I’m sorted now. I need 40mm so I’ve ordered some internal M8 threaded tube that I can extend the linkage with. Then I can make a slightly longer base plate to match. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 These from screwfix would do. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-carbon-steel-threaded-rod-connecting-nuts-m8-10-pack/373gx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 30 minutes ago, ballcock said: These from screwfix would do. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-carbon-steel-threaded-rod-connecting-nuts-m8-10-pack/373gx Couldn’t find hex ones long enough so I’ve gone for a round one which will work just as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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