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300Tdi cooling problem


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Morning team. 

Changed the top hose on my 300tdi yesterday. Very straight forward. Didn’t do a bleed on the system though. Ran it with heater on after the hose change then checked coolant level after it had cooled and topped it up. 

Drove this morning and was overheating and the fuel gauge went up as well. Help. 

Edited by western
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  • western changed the title to 300Tdi cooling problem

Yes there's an earth point on the right side of the transfer box which certainly affected my gauges all of a sudden.

You can see it if you look backwards into the front of the transfer box, it's high up on that left in that view. Certainly worth a clean and re-vaseline.

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17 hours ago, Peaklander said:

Yes there's an earth point on the right side of the transfer box which certainly affected my gauges all of a sudden.

You can see it if you look backwards into the front of the transfer box, it's high up on that left in that view. Certainly worth a clean and re-vaseline.

I think that this is what you are looking for:

DSCN0559.thumb.JPG.57d80cc72c1e2633fb53da218ae3031b.JPG

From memory, and mine's not great, the bolt right in the centre of the photo had a bare woven copper strap to the battery negative, although it does look as if there is an insulated earth cable on the bolt slightly lower and to the left.  I can't remember where that went 🤔.  Hope this helps.

Mike

 

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Just a note: if it’s a 300Tdi Defender, turning the “heater” on does nothing to change the coolant flow. The coolant is flowing through the heater matrix 100% of the time (there are no valves/taps etc) 

Turning the “heater” on simply diverts air over the matrix via a crude flap operated by the cable lever.

The heater matrix is however higher than the thermostat housing bleed and radiator fill point, hence why LR have the dicky bleed valve in the line to expansion tank.

Bleeding the air out can be a bit of a bear sometimes.

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18 hours ago, FrankthePostman said:

It was definitely the earth issue. All fixed now. Slightly bodged until I get the proper 50-10 cable lugs. Apparently they are like rocking horse ****. 

 

Good to hear you've got the issue sorted (or at least identified). The lugs shouldn't be too hard to get hold of, VWP carry them here, and I'm sure most other auto electrical suppliers will have them. It's probably easier / cheaper however to get in touch with your local electrical wholesaler.

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