Maverik Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 To carry on from my "don't work when tired" thread - Dont work tired... - International Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum I've got the head off and I'm just trying to workout what/if I want to be doing anything to it while its off. So I'm going to remove the valves to allow me to clean the rags out of the ports and have an inspection of the valves and seats, should I be looking to lap the valves again? - what should be an indicator for me to need to look at this? The head was refurbished by Turners in 2017 - and its done 34k miles since install. Valve stem caps look healthy, push rods looks straight, I was wondering about trying to measure them all to verify they are in fact straight. - the clicking I heard when the engine was turning over was an overly loose tappet due to the rag stopping the valve from closing properly, there doesn't seem to be witness marks from any contact between the valve and the piston... which is lucky. So was planning on decoking and cleaning everything up - setting some new valve stem seals then putting it back on with a new head-gasket. I'm not overly concerned at the head bottom surface as it was good before i took it off, I doubt anything will have changed. Got some new heater plugs, and was going to have a go and swapping the injector nozzles for some new ones. Does anyone have any good decoking tips? Have I missed anything? Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 When I rebuilt my200Tdi, the head got recut valve seats, new valves/lapped in, guides were fine no wear in them new valve stem seals, springs & valve caps, it was checked for straightness & refaced.& pressure cleaned, then reconditioned injectors, new glowplugs, new rockers rocker shaft., reused the pushrods as they were straight, [just roll them on a known good surface, you will see if there are any bends in them] alsocheckthe rocker supports threads in the top of the head, one of mine had stripped the thread, so I fitted a helicoil in it with new bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 If it's only done 34k since a Turner rebuild then , as you have said , disassemble and inspect everything and re-assemble with new guide seals. While apart check the valve stems for any scoring/pick up and regarding lapping the seats , if the mating faces are not recessed and have a nice shiny visible contact ring on both the seat and valve then all is good . As Ralph says , a check of the rocker shaft fixing threads is worthwhile before building it up Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 Just check and reassemble, I'd personally not even change the guide seals, they can pop off annoyingly when reinstalling, so if Turners have got then stuck on firmly, I would leave be, they should last 150K at least. You going to check the bottom end at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 Just check it over to make sure nothing is stuck where it shouldn't be and inspect the valve seats for pitting. Was it running fine before this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 19, 2021 Author Share Posted July 19, 2021 2 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Just check and reassemble, I'd personally not even change the guide seals, they can pop off annoyingly when reinstalling, so if Turners have got then stuck on firmly, I would leave be, they should last 150K at least. You going to check the bottom end at all? I actually rang turners up this morning and had a really good chat with Richard. - and he pretty much said the same thing, checking the valves for damage is the priority and just replace if they're bent. I know the valve stem seals are Elring and look fine, and I've read they can be a pain to get seated. Think I'll play it by ear once I get the valves out for an inspection, I'll plan to do a witness mark check on the seats to see if they're doing what they're meant to be doing. Wasn't planning on going down to the bottom end, I'm limited on what space and tools I have to play with here. I just want it boxed back up and keep it going another few years to when hopefully I can do a core rebuild. 44 minutes ago, monkie said: Just check it over to make sure nothing is stuck where it shouldn't be and inspect the valve seats for pitting. Was it running fine before this? Yeah she was fine, it was a mistake during a timing belt change that's caused this whole... "challenge". 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 22 minutes ago, Maverik said: Wasn't planning on going down to the bottom end, I'm limited on what space and tools I have to play with here. If you have a dial indicator, and half an hour, a piston height check would put your mind at rest from any bent rods. Admittedly I am thinking worst case here, but rag in the bore could well be hard enough when compressed to bend something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 24 minutes ago, Maverik said: I know the valve stem seals are Elring and look fine, and I've read they can be a pain to get seated That might have been me. I have a thread in the Techical Archive describing how I changed them with the head on. The retention of the stem seals on the stem was the sting in the tail of a very straightforward job as they kept popping off - they were ‘Genuine’ brand. Eventually I used a blob of Bondloc as advised by someone on here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share Posted July 20, 2021 So pulled the valves, the head seats looks fine, but the valve seats don't look that great and a few valves have got some. Marks that indicate they where forced to one side, for the sake of good order I've got a new valve set on its way. The inlet valve on no3 which had the most rag stuck in it has a massive built up of oily carbon on it, due to the rag I don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 10 minutes ago, Maverik said: Is that "Wynns Anti-rag Spray" there?! 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 I'd be tempted to reassemble with new valves, and pull the head again at the next service. Those marks on the seat bother me a bit, but they may just go away with use. The cost of getting the head redone would be the thing. If it's not much, then I'd do it, but I suspect there's a lot of engines out there giving excellent service that are in much worse condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share Posted July 20, 2021 3 hours ago, Gazzar said: I'd be tempted to reassemble with new valves, and pull the head again at the next service. Those marks on the seat bother me a bit, but they may just go away with use. The cost of getting the head redone would be the thing. If it's not much, then I'd do it, but I suspect there's a lot of engines out there giving excellent service that are in much worse condition. Yeah I've got a new set of valves coming from turners tomorrow. - @Gazzar which marks are bothering you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 The carbon/pitting/whatever at the bottom of the shot. Hard to see tbh, which is why I think it's probably okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share Posted July 20, 2021 On 7/19/2021 at 3:58 PM, Peaklander said: That might have been me. I have a thread in the Techical Archive describing how I changed them with the head on. The retention of the stem seals on the stem was the sting in the tail of a very straightforward job as they kept popping off - they were ‘Genuine’ brand. Eventually I used a blob of Bondloc as advised by someone on here. @Peaklander what bondloc did you use out of interest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share Posted July 20, 2021 @Gazzar the area in red is the actual machined face, the rough area above is actually at a different angle which I suspect is the rough insert finish prior to machining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 1 hour ago, Maverik said: @Peaklander what bondloc did you use out of interest? It was Bondloc 638 I think. Referenced here as an insert in the original tech archive thread here 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 1 hour ago, Gazzar said: The carbon/pitting/whatever at the bottom of the shot. Hard to see tbh, which is why I think it's probably okay. That looks about as good as any valve seat tbh. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 Good. Build it back up. Remove bits of tree, start it and take it for a spin. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 21, 2021 Author Share Posted July 21, 2021 Busy afternoon cleaning and installing, flipping hot work. My Turner parcel arrived at 11, so had no more excuses. The Elring valve stem seals popped on with a gentle hammer tap and felt nice and tight, new valves slotted in, heat stopped play so I retreated to the shade and stripped the injectors and installed new nozzles. Sun popped behind a cloud so I finished off scrubbing the block and pistons and got head back torqued down. Might actually get her finished tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 21, 2021 Author Share Posted July 21, 2021 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted July 21, 2021 Share Posted July 21, 2021 Nice work. This is making me fell bad I've not done anything on my 200Tdi since the heatwave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Maverik Posted July 23, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 23, 2021 Managed to get her finished off today, after a minute to prime the oil and fuel system she started pretty effortlessly. Been for some test drives and she seems to work ok, feels a bit different, not quite sure how yet, and she might be a little more smokey at times, but that could just be me focusing more on the exhaust pipe during the test drives. Was pretty nervous turning the key, that's for sure! Hopefully I can keep her going a few more years before I rebuild the engine. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaymarsden Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 Hello guys. I am new here. I have the same exact issue. Ive read some post and it seems to be helpful but havent tried yet. Waiting for more helpful advice on this thread. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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