ThreePointFive Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 Yo. I've been trying to upgrade my lower door seals from the standard ones mounted to the sills to the ones that are fitted to the bottom of the doors themselves on later models. I have Puma doors, so these should fit. I carefully drilled out the rivets on the sills and removed the seal. I then fitted the door seal: They fit very well on the door but will not close with them fitted. Not even close. Am I doing something wrong or is there an issue with my setup that I'm not seeing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted September 16, 2021 Share Posted September 16, 2021 Cover them in silicone oil, and see if that helps? Donno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted September 16, 2021 Author Share Posted September 16, 2021 It seems that in closing the doors, many of the clips snapped off the seal so it seems like a clearance issue with the sills. I'm not going to bother with them and will just re-fit my sill seals. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 Strange - I fitted these over the sill seals a few years ago, they do pop out a little at the bottom but nothing as bad as what you've got. - if you're going back to the sill type, don't get britpart, as they will cause the same issue - the rubber they use is too hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted September 17, 2021 Author Share Posted September 17, 2021 It might be that my doors are to low or my sills too high (or a mixture of both) but if either is true then the whole car is wonky. I am just going to reuse the genuine 30 year old ones that I just took off. Annoyingly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 one IMPORTANT thing to remember @ThreePointFive, if you seal the bottom of the doors or your footwell then WHERE is the water going to get out when it leaks in through the roof? 😎 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 (edited) @bodumatau and so it begins, the list of "Where's it coming from???" and "How to STOP it???". Those happy days of paddling in the foot well rinsing your socks and cleaning your shoes, contemplating the amount of condensation and it's flow rate to the volume of paper towels to soak it up!?! And then not forgetting mould and the debate of whether it will actually develop mushrooms or fungus!?! Sometimes I just leave the windows open for fun in the rainy season! Edited September 17, 2021 by Mutley Spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 Jealous, you've a choice of window open or closed. Mine are stuck, I've to park away from the rain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Sam, I used the door bottom seals on the sill, just drilled some holes for the studs and cut the flappy ends off once fitted. Job done, seals nicely and much better than the old 👌 Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted September 19, 2021 Share Posted September 19, 2021 (edited) On 9/17/2021 at 5:56 PM, Mutley said: @bodumatau and so it begins, the list of "Where's it coming from???" and "How to STOP it???". Those happy days of paddling in the foot well rinsing your socks and cleaning your shoes, contemplating the amount of condensation and it's flow rate to the volume of paper towels to soak it up!?! And then not forgetting mould and the debate of whether it will actually develop mushrooms or fungus!?! Sometimes I just leave the windows open for fun in the rainy season! Mate of mine with a 110 SWA searched himself silly for a leak at passenger side where roof joins windscreen, it turns out it came from the REAR corner of thw roof where a previous repair had caused damage and it ran ALL the way to the front leak on his wife's knee 🤣 Edited September 19, 2021 by bodumatau Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted September 20, 2021 Share Posted September 20, 2021 Yep, Land Rovers are perverse, and gravity rules! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted September 20, 2021 Author Share Posted September 20, 2021 On 9/18/2021 at 2:08 PM, Mo Murphy said: Sam, I used the door bottom seals on the sill, just drilled some holes for the studs and cut the flappy ends off once fitted. Job done, seals nicely and much better than the old 👌 Mo That's a really interesting idea, I'll have to give that a look. With regards to the leaks, I have been fairly careful to deal with the known flaws while putting the body together so if it does leak, these things are truly unsealable and I won't even try to investigate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted January 16, 2022 Author Share Posted January 16, 2022 I came back to this issue as I'm trying to keep momentum with the jobs I can actually finish. I did try the original sill seals but they had cuts along them which I wasn't happy with. I bought some aftermarket ones and they are absolutely useless, they don't fit the same holes and the rubber tears when rivetted. I bought some genuine door bottom seals to see if they were any better than the previous ones and the door still refuses to close properly. I think I'm on to something with the sill location being off. Mine looks like this, does anyone have a comparison photo of theirs? I think my sills are positioned too outboard, so there's not enough gap for the door to fit into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 The problem is you used to have the early type sill mounted seals which are rivited through a 'P' section strip of steel which is spot welded to the steel sill channel. You have not removed the 'P' section strip from the sill so the seals on the doors are probably hitting the 'P' section rather than closing on the sill channel. Regards, Diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 Yes I concur - you should just have the plain sill box section if using the later seals. Not a great photo but visible here: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 I was not aware there were different versions, that answers that. Thanks for the enlightenment. Now to work out if I can be bothered to swap with new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 They’re a much better design as they don’t get knocked off by your boots all the time, and don’t trap dirt against the sill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 Even with the later sills without the P section, my doors still stick out a bit at the bottom with the door mounted seals. - I live with it as I think they work pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 I can live with them not being exactly flush but the door won't close as-is! I think I'm sold on the new sills, just need to find a supplier of galvanized ones. I can't remember how big of a job it is to remove/replace the sills with everything else in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelE Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 I fitted these later seals to my 93 D90 last year. The rubber stems on the seal fitted in to the existing holes on the underside of the door. I used PU sealant to help keep them in place. Driver's door was a pig to close. Passenger's was only a bit better. I think that the existing holes place the seals too far inboard. After a few months of futile living in hope that things would improve over time, I ripped them off and have been without for a while. No detrimental effects whatsoever. You wouldn't know they were missing. So sorting this out has gone way way down on my list of things to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 20 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said: I can't remember how big of a job it is to remove/replace the sills with everything else in place. If the bolts are all relatively new/free then it wont take long, I remember swapping mine and it was remarkably uneventful and pretty quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 Can be fun getting the bolts out and the side tank makes access hard on the drivers side but it can be done. YRM sell the new galv sill members you see in my photo above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 Ah yes, it's that embuggerance I remember when doing some adjustments last time. Well I've done it, a pair of sills on order. A bit OTT just for some door seals but my current ones aren't galvanised so that's an immediate improvement and I know the seals are an improvement over the sill type. I'm sure it's worth it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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