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Electrolysis power supply


Mossberg

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I am no metallurgist, but like you discovered electrolytic rust removal, and came upon embrittlement as a potential hazard. The gist is, hydrogen is produced at the surface of the metal by the electrolysis and can be absorbed into the metal, making it brittle. That process can be reversed by heating the part after to drive out the hydrogen, or just waiting, as I recall a couple of weeks is enough. That said, I ignored that, and have had no issue, but have never used it on something crucial. Google is your friend, there is plenty to read about it.

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2 hours ago, cackshifter said:

I am no metallurgist, but like you discovered electrolytic rust removal, and came upon embrittlement as a potential hazard. The gist is, hydrogen is produced at the surface of the metal by the electrolysis and can be absorbed into the metal, making it brittle. That process can be reversed by heating the part after to drive out the hydrogen, or just waiting, as I recall a couple of weeks is enough. That said, I ignored that, and have had no issue, but have never used it on something crucial. Google is your friend, there is plenty to read about it.

Many thanks.  I did do a Google but it looks like there is no definite do's and don't. I noticed the heating comment and thought "that's OK as I heated the swivel housing to loosen a bolt" - then noticed it said bake for 8 hours!!

I will consider this in future though  - saying that I do intend to do the other swivel housing. 

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  • 10 months later...

I remembered this thread and now that I have a pile of rusty tools from my late father-in-law's, I have decided to clean some and then decide what to do with them. As I cleared a couple of buildings I have slowly accumulated various tyre levers and many ball pein hammer heads. I reckon that they have collected rust over at least eighty years.

I weighed-in nearly a ton of scrap too but hope to have some of this de-rusted stuff on a car boot stall. I would like to get to Newbury in April but it's a bit of a hike however I have a decent list of LR related stuff to sell now.

Anyway, a small tub, battery and old fashioned charger plus washing soda from Sainsbury's (cheapest) was quickly assembled and the first item I tried was this. Result!

 

IMG_8606.thumb.jpeg.27dedffa870196567feeda75008a31d0.jpeg

 

IMG_8640.thumb.jpeg.a715a89108c41d0c9fea1b688a034adc.jpeg 

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I believe with an old fashioned charger you don't need a battery.  The battery is needed if you use one of the newer type smart chargers. 

I have done quite a bit of electrolysis now and I think it's a great method of rust removal. From simple steel brackets right through to my axle case - I have even done stub axles as the electrolysis doesn't affect the good steel. I have also done clamps and hammers!!

I find compressed air and a bit of WD40 are good to reduce flash rusting. 

Keep posting your photos, I like seeing the before and after pics!

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For larger items, perhaps up to a whole chassis, it's not too hard to build a "bath" out of some 2x6 or 2x8 boards lined with polythene film, up to 10ft wide, as used by builders.  Although the treatment might be slow, because of the total area, it's still cheaper, and more effective, than sand blasting.  I wish that I had been switched on to this process when I had my chassis blasted and galvanised five years ago.

Mike

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5 hours ago, Troll Hunter said:

For larger items, perhaps up to a whole chassis, it's not too hard to build a "bath" out of some 2x6 or 2x8 boards lined with polythene film, up to 10ft wide, as used by builders.  Although the treatment might be slow, because of the total area, it's still cheaper, and more effective, than sand blasting.  I wish that I had been switched on to this process when I had my chassis blasted and galvanised five years ago.

Mike

I’d say for galvanising, you’d still want to have it blasted. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

For all of you experienced 'Electrolytes'... do you have any idea what impact cold weather/ambient temperatures would have on this process? 

I've never used electrolysis before, but quite fancy it for a couple of parts I'm working on now. However I could do with not waiting 3 or 4 months till it warms up.

Intuitively (for whatever that's worth!) I feel that something that vaguely resembles a chemical process is going to slow down in the cold; on the other hand this isn't simply chemical, but has the added input of electricity. So maybe it doesn't matter that we're hovering around the freezing mark and look likely to be so for a wee while yet. 

I have my power source; my soda; cables etc - I just need a round tuit. Has anyone any advice on the temperature question? Ta.

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1 hour ago, Peaklander said:

I've been de-rusting stuff outside for several weeks and the soda is preventing the water from freezing. It works fine.

Each day I start a new part, so first job in the morning is a scrape and wash-down. 😁

Same - never had a problem with the cold. Gets addictive keeping the process going!

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Yes, the reaction is potentially slightly slower due to cold, but then you are forcing it with electricity, so just turn it up 😛 

You know when things are really getting going when the water starts to warm up a bit....

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