ANR1534

[GW8IZR]

19 hours ago, Daan said:

You can get them banded and get beads welded on at the same time to make them tubeless:

If you add 2" to a standard 5.5 inch wheel, the offset will be about what you have now. I wouldn't touch the ANR1534, they are worth their weight in gold.

I used TD5 steel wheels, these have the well welded to the rim, which is better for tubeless, if the well is riveted to the rim, it can leak.

Better still is to start with TDCI (puma) rims, they have a bead pressed in from factory, band them and you have it tubeless straight away.

Or of course buy the wider ones.

It is all in my thread.

 

Daan

Thanks for the info Daan and all the other people who have taken the time to comment and advise, I'm half tempted to sell on the old rims rather than have them modified. Beading.. thats actually the term I was looking for rather than banding.

I am a bit concerned about running on modified wheels.. not for any practical reason as I've run substantially modified vehicles forever and if modifications are done professionally and with consideration to the whole vehicle its fine. OTOH reversing the rims on minis wasn't too hard and it was successful back in the late 70's but In this ever litigious society it would be hard to feel comfortable doing so today 🙂

I think I'll get the white lettering put on the inside of my ZU's first and take it from there.

 

Again, thanks for the info and advice.

 

Paul 

[Chicken Drumstick]

If you want 'Land Rover' looking wheels. The Wolf replica's are pretty good value. £78 a rim, already tubeless. And a bit better offset than standard rims, as well as 6.5j, so suitable for a 235/85. If you want a wider stance still. Easiest option is to fit some wheel spacers with them.

https://www.paddockspares.com/16x6-5-wolf-rim-tubeless-white.html

Available in black or white.

 

I agree, butchering your current wheels probably doesn't make sense given their value and desirability.

[muddy]

1 hour ago, Chicken Drumstick said:

If you want 'Land Rover' looking wheels. The Wolf replica's are pretty good value. £78 a rim, already tubeless. And a bit better offset than standard rims, as well as 6.5j, so suitable for a 235/85. If you want a wider stance still. Easiest option is to fit some wheel spacers with them.

https://www.paddockspares.com/16x6-5-wolf-rim-tubeless-white.html

Available in black or white.

 

I agree, butchering your current wheels probably doesn't make sense given their value and desirability.

Or you could just buy ET0 wolfs and save on spacers…

[twodoorgaz]

I go through this debate every few months with the rims on mine.

 

Like yourself I have a set of ANR1534s in storage. Your 'expensive rims' are definately still expensive - don't worry about that. The availability of the Naka ANR Classic rims hasn't impacted the value of 130 rims at all. They still sell for bonkers money.

 

The problem that I have with the Naka ANR rims is that they only made them at 8" wide which is great if you want to run really wide tyres. This means the thinnest common LR tyres you can fit are 255s (very tall and look great but definitely not stock) or 265/75/r16s (NAS90 size, so factory approved but are pushed right out by the ET0 offset). I wish they had made a 7" rim so that peope had the choice of sticking with standard sizes. AN ET0 7" rim would have become the default upgrade for the majority of Defender and Series owners in my humble opinion.

 

So the alternatives are - band a tubeless 5.5" late defender rim, fit tubeless wolf rims (in standard or aftermarket ET0 fitments).

 

Like yourself, I can't work out what to do - really interesting to see that Tubeless banding could be added to a non tubeless rim.

 

In the absence of a manufactured wheel, the next best thing to me would be to transfer the factory (or HD 130) wheel centres into a wheel 'barrel' that is already the right width and is already tubeless. I've seen it done before - Matt Urch did it in this video for an old Vauxhall but try as I may I've never found steel 'barrels' for sale and certainly not anything with the same profile as a stock LR steel wheel.

 

In the above video he got the barrels from John Brown wheels, I've just emailed them to ask if they can source a barrel that is defender sized. Their eBay ad for the Cortina barrels is here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185454200486?hash=item2b2dee86a6:g:wyMAAOSwvv9eDh0A

 

Edited July 14, 2022 by twodoorgaz

[steve b]

@twodoorgaz - what is special about 130 rims? 

Also , I agree , a 7" NAK ET0 tubeless rim would be a popular choice for a nice standard look and safe mounting of modern tyres.

Steve

[twodoorgaz]

Steve (and forgive me if I've misunderstood the question and am teaching my granny here) - the factory 6.5J rims (Series one ton, Series Forward Control and Defender 127/130 before they started fitting wolf wheels) are just that bit wider than normal 5.5J Series LWB/Defender steels. This means you can safely fit 235/85/R16 tyres which fill the arches nicely. The centres are also (apparently) slightly thicker than stock 5.5J rims.

 

Basically people want them to fit bigger wheel while retaining the traditional look. Depending on which variant they came off (Series one ton, Series Forward Control or Defender 127/130) there are different offsets too, with the FC rims being the most desirable due to the lowest offset.

 

They've always been in demand (or at least since LW Vass stopped selling them at £5/rim, christ remember that?) but the prices have gone absolutely stupid in the past few years.

 

There's nothing technically special about them its justa  supply/demand thing - ANR1534s (as fitted to 127s/early 130s) were also used on Camel Trophy 110s and on NAS110s too just increasing percieved desirability. Here's a couple of chancers on ebay now:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124565285560?hash=item1d00ab6ab8:g:NIAAAOSw1jJekcwh

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134170982315?hash=item1f3d36b7ab:g:dakAAOSwRopizdko

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203916723362?epid=1724820085&hash=item2f7a6244a2%3Ag%3ANHEAAOSwm2FiXGK4&LH_ItemCondition=4

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304559755935?hash=item46e92d129f%3Ag%3AGcgAAOSwDD1hLnz3&LH_ItemCondition=4

 

The scary thing is that they're actually selling at that price - just looked at sol listings and seen one set at £1600 and another at £2000 blasted and powdercoated.

 

My local firm will blast and coat for £25 a rim. Tempted to do that, sell my set of 5x ANR1534s and buy another Series IIA - I've just bought another vehicle for £1600 too. Mental.

Edited July 14, 2022 by twodoorgaz

[steve b]

Ah , somehow I'd got in my head ANR1534 was the Standard 5.5 steel wheel ....do'h 

The 6.5 deep dish was originally fitted to Rover axle 2a FC's , hence the rarity . I've got 10 of the LWVass 1 ton rims , maybe time to sell a set and retire 

Steve

[Chicken Drumstick]

[Anderzander]

I think my banded ones are:

D 16.  W 6.5   ET 8mm.  Back 4” front 2.5”

 

the 8mm I may be wrong with though - as all the other measurements seem to be the same as 1 ton ones.

[Daan]

If you put a 2" band in a standard 5.5" wheel, you will end up with a 7.5" wide wheel, that has an 8mm offset. It basically is the same offset as a 7x16 modular wheel. This makes the wheels exactly flush with the wheel arches.

I personally think that is the most cost effective way to achieve the right end result.

 

10 hours ago, Anderzander said:

I think my banded ones are:

D 16.  W 6.5   ET 8mm.  Back 4” front 2.5”

 

the 8mm I may be wrong with though - as all the other measurements seem to be the same as 1 ton ones.

If you banded it by 1", the ET would be 20.5mm

If you want a 7" wheel, you could band it by 1.5", giving you an ET of 14.25mm

As mentioned, I found the 8mm offset gives you a wheel exactly flush with the outside of the wheel arch (depending on tyre width obviously) on both defenders and series landys. It is the usual offset of the Modular wheel, so you can compare it with that.

The 0mm offset sticks out slightly, so makes it too wide basically.

Daan

[Daan]

17 hours ago, twodoorgaz said:

 

 

In the absence of a manufactured wheel, the next best thing to me would be to transfer the factory (or HD 130) wheel centres into a wheel 'barrel' that is already the right width and is already tubeless. I've seen it done before - Matt Urch did it in this video for an old Vauxhall but try as I may I've never found steel 'barrels' for sale and certainly not anything with the same profile as a stock LR steel wheel.

 

In the above video he got the barrels from John Brown wheels, I've just emailed them to ask if they can source a barrel that is defender sized. Their eBay ad for the Cortina barrels is here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185454200486?hash=item2b2dee86a6:g:wyMAAOSwvv9eDh0A

 

I did go through this, intending to remove the centres of my modular wheels and fit land rover centres. But the ID of the rim did not match the OD of the Centre. I think you have to stay with land rover rims or barrels as you call them to get the correct ID. You could start with a wolf wheel and replace the centre for a land rover centre. But cutting out the centre is a big job which you would have to do x10 and lining up the new centre is quite involved, so I came to the conclusion that banding is the only sensible way; It is very cheap and when done correctly, works fine. With wheels it is always at first you think the price is not too bad, until you multiply it by 5!

I run 35x10.5x16 simex on my banded wheels; they work much better then the Modulars they replaced, which were out of balance. The banded TD5 wheels are as straight as can be at any speed. No balancing was needed, it just works as is:

Daan

[Chicken Drumstick]

44 minutes ago, Daan said:

I did go through this, intending to remove the centres of my modular wheels and fit land rover centres. But the ID of the rim did not match the OD of the Centre. I think you have to stay with land rover rims or barrels as you call them to get the correct ID. You could start with a wolf wheel and replace the centre for a land rover centre. But cutting out the centre is a big job and lining up the new centre is quite involved, so I came to the conclusion that banding is the only sensible way; It is very cheap and when done correctly, works fine. With wheels it is always at first you think the price is not too bad, until you multiply it by 5!

I run 35x10.5x16 on my banded wheels; they work much better then the Modulars they replaced, which were out of balance. The banded TD5 wheels are as straight as can be at any speed. No balancing was needed, it just works as is:

Daan

Looks great Daan. Did you band them yourself?

[Daan]

3 minutes ago, Chicken Drumstick said:

Looks great Daan. Did you band them yourself?

No, I got a dutch specialist to do it for me. But he no longer does it now.

Daan

[landroversforever]

12 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:

Wolf wheels are ET20.6 as well by the way  

[Daan]

Yes, but the ascetics are a bit challenging on a series. But that is just an opinion. Of the complete wheel snob that I am.

Daan

[landroversforever]

Just now, Daan said:

Yes, but the ascetics are a bit challenging on a series. But that is just an opinion. Of the complete wheel snob that I am.

Daan

Oh I wasn't meaning for yours Daan, I was meaning the chart is wrong because I've spent far too long looking at wheels/offsets and I'm also a different kind of wheel snob  

[Anderzander]

I experienced the full snobbery of wheels with my choice of colour .. 😂

I had CBT so I could say limestone without being triggered.

[Daan]

I had to google this:

Cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT) is a talking therapy that can help you manage your problems by changing the way you think and behave.

I'd say that kind of therapy is wasted on me, particularly when the subject is land rover wheels.

Daan

[Anderzander]

Limestone 

see? It’s working