200TDI waterpipe ERR371

[hurbie]

hello all , 

 

does anybody know if you can use the waterpipe from the 300tdi (https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/err6197-rigid-coolant-pipe-300-tdi.html) , or doesn't it fit behind/under the Turbo ?

engine is a Defender spec so has the high turbo , the water pipe i need is ERR371 , this has a big curve in it to clear the turbo , but is no longer availeble.

the one i have is very rusted inside and has a mounting tab broken off (seems a standard isseu with these)

this is the one i need : https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ERR371

 

greetings Gerben

[monkie]

I don't think it will based upon the two pictures I found by doing a quick Google search. (Not my pictures, they are from engines for sale on eBay) The pictures clearly show the issue I think you'll run into 

[western]

Hurbie - - Rimmer Bros in Lincolnshire are showing that ERR371  as available 

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ERR371

[western]

Or here https://www.euro4x4parts.com/en/parts/ref=KTU1019/heating-steel-pipe/oe=err371

But no mounting tabs on it. 

Have a look on ebay as well. 

[hurbie]

5 minutes ago, western said:

Or here https://www.euro4x4parts.com/en/parts/ref=KTU1019/heating-steel-pipe/oe=err371

But no mounting tabs on it. 

Have a look on ebay as well. 

yes , i found these but i have to e-mail them to find out if they really stock them (it say's "Equivalent to ERR371" , to me that means there not Land-Rover)

if they do it might be a good alternative

 

9 minutes ago, western said:

Hurbie - - Rimmer Bros in Lincolnshire are showing that ERR371  as available 

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ERR371

i mailed most of the usual suspect's , but nobody seems to have 1 in stock , and Landrover is out of them .

[monkie]

If you are struggling to find one, maybe you could make one from some copper pipe, using your old one as a template for the bends, held in place with clips? 

[hurbie]

2 minutes ago, monkie said:

If you are struggling to find one, maybe you could make one from some copper pipe, using your old one as a template for the bends, held in place with clips? 

thought about that , but not sure i can get the bends close enough to fit (a "normal" pipe bender needs a fair bit of room between bends).

[Sigi_H]

Why not use different paths? It doesn´t need to be exactly the same. The pipe can be straight at the rear end, or only slightly bent,  if you adjust the hose. You can also use a well-laid steel braided hose over the entire length.

[reb78]

On 11/19/2023 at 8:55 PM, hurbie said:

thought about that , but not sure i can get the bends close enough to fit (a "normal" pipe bender needs a fair bit of room between bends).

Not sure you need to bend it if you can solder. 4x 90 degree bends and some straight pipe should work?

[Sigi_H]

This pipe is used for the short cooling circuit completing the circle between cylinderhead, waterpump and heater rad. This means, there is always water pumped independent from the thermostat. The heater rad will always become hot, thats why heating is not controlled hydraulicaly, but with a flap in the rad and fan box.

It is a pipe, because it can use the hot path between cylinderhead and turbo. (200Tdi)

If you do not use that path, a rubber hose can be used. It is just like all the other cooling hoses then.

 

[reb78]

11 hours ago, Sigi_H said:

This pipe is used for the short cooling circuit completing the circle between cylinderhead, waterpump and heater rad. This means, there is always water pumped independent from the thermostat. The heater rad will always become hot, thats why heating is not controlled hydraulicaly, but with a flap in the rad and fan box.

It is a pipe, because it can use the hot path between cylinderhead and turbo. (200Tdi)

If you do not use that path, a rubber hose can be used. It is just like all the other cooling hoses then.

 

Where else are you going to route it though? Theres not exactly another obvious/convenient route from the front connection. 

[Snagger]

Have you tried Turner Engineering?  They stock some pipes and hoses, surprisingly.

You can use the spring type pipe benders, which just stop the pipe buckling.  Then you can bend a copper pipe wherever you like.  Alternatively, the soldered joint solution is a good one.  If neither of those take your fancy, a length of hose replacing the the entire run would do fine, with a few pieces of extra hose slit and wrapped around its exterior to protect it from rubbing against head bolts.  A few fixings at convenient points should work well.

[Sigi_H]

@reb78you can route along the rocker cover on the injection side or even a longer path along the wing. Not beautiful but possible

[hurbie]

thanks for all the idea's , for now i keep my eyes open for a new/very good used one (i'm in no hurry as i have so much to do before i can run the engine)

14 hours ago, Snagger said:

Have you tried Turner Engineering?  They stock some pipes and hoses, surprisingly.

i did , but it is some time ago , so will check with them more regular..

[stevebus]

Fella I've got one here you can have, one of the tags has lost its hole if that make sense but the tag is still attached to the pipe itself, a man of your caliber would easy fix it, I'll send a piccy in a while, give me 20 minutes 

[stevebus]

Is that the bit

[stevebus]

It is clean and no holes fella, a bit of a wire wheel and a washer tacked to that tag should do the job I reckon

[hurbie]

19 minutes ago, stevebus said:

It is clean and no holes fella, a bit of a wire wheel and a washer tacked to that tag should do the job I reckon

can you have a look inside , all i have seen so far are really crusty on the inside (to the point they have almost pinhole's )

the outside on most seems mostly very decent .

[stevebus]

With the greatest respect fella, I'm not asking  anything for it, you can have it,  pay the postage,  there's no holes in it, I wouldn't of kept it if it had, I've put an airline down it and blocked both ends sufficiently enough to tell, I think any secondhand steel pipe is going to have rust down it being from a 30 year old engine, your shout fella

[hurbie]

@stevebus thanks for your offer and the time to dig it out and take the picture's , i'll pass on this one , because i don't think it's any better then the one i have at the moment .

 

 

[stevebus]

No worries fella

[Snagger]

How about bending up a new one in copper and using JB Weld to attach the brackets from the original pipe? You could solder on some olives at each end to make the clamping ridge (or use a compression fitting and then cut the nut off to remove it from between the squeezed-on olives).  That should be more corrosion resistant and perhaps better resistant to scale that the steel pipes.

[monkie]

I think the above is 100% what you should do. It would also look great if you polished it up.

[fmmv]

Or Yorkshire fittings have swaged ends, you can just leave one end empty at each end of the pipe.

[Retroanaconda]

Would normal copper pipe not be a bit susceptible to work hardening and fracturing with vibration?

Cupro-nickel might be a better bit, like for brake/fuel lines?