roamingyak Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 {Yawn!} Another day, another couple of spot welds leaking at the bottom of my (diesel) fuel tank. It's the third tank I'm on, and time to replace this one as well as now that's 4 spot welds that I will have patched up on this one alone. Has anybody released a Defender fuel tank (200/300 TDI version) that solves this problem please? It would be nice to buy one that lasts 10 years, as opposed to 6 months before a sport weld pops and the leaks start. Cheers! Darrin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 If you fail to get a good tank consider to seal the inside with a coating, that is used for rusted motorcycle tanks like Kreem for example. Derusted fueltanks for old motorcycles can be coated inside with a kind of fuelresistant quite thick plastic or rubber material. Maybe that solves your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted March 10 Author Share Posted March 10 Thanks mate, as far as I know there are no good tanks unfortunately, the baffles inside are spot welded, and over corrugations and bumps, the liquid sloshes violently, puts pressure on the sport welds that eventually lift off from the tank and sometimes tear a pin prick hole which leaks out... I was told even LR tanks do this....? I was hoping somebody had released a newer tank to solve this common (at least in Africa) and annoying issue...? I'm not sure the coating would survive the spot welded tearing off (I know people have been trying it here, but unsure of the results) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 Would something like this be a better solution if the sloshing is the problem? https://www.tanksrus.co.uk/water/water-tank-accessories/baffle-balls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 If it’s a 110 you could change to a later Td5 tank. It’s a fair bit of work though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 Either that or convert to a TD5 plastic tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 Just now, Retroanaconda said: If it’s a 110 you could change to a later Td5 tank. It’s a fair bit of work though. Jinx? Or whatever. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted March 10 Author Share Posted March 10 3 hours ago, elbekko said: Would something like this be a better solution if the sloshing is the problem? https://www.tanksrus.co.uk/water/water-tank-accessories/baffle-balls Not sure, but the core problem is the poor quality of the tanks themselves, wafer thin steel, poor quality welds etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted March 10 Author Share Posted March 10 3 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Either that or convert to a TD5 plastic tank. Yes, I will look at that, sick of these leaking tanks. Are there any good threads or Youtube on it anywhere please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 Kreem is a really thick coating, that avoids vibrations of baffles as well. This could avoid teared of spot welds anyway. But of course this will be a test. A plastic tank works for sure, but isn´t it smaller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 I haven't had the problem myself using old genuine tanks, but could well imagine the new repro tanks having problems. If you're around namib/sa you could consider getting an ally or steel tank made up, or even have a slightly larger capacity one made up. I guess another option would be to get another tank and clean & beef up the spotwelds with a mig? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 Would be good to know / see pics of the place it's failing - tank sealant is not going to help a fractured part as cracks will creep with vibration. I'd also check the mountings, are there missing or worn rubber mountings or stress being put on the tank at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 I was beaten to the suggestion of the plastic TD5 tanks. There are companies who make aftermarket long range or extended range tanks that may be worth a look. They may be easier to fit than the TD5 tank and would have range benefits too. I’m not sure if an aluminium tank might be more prone to cracking, though; I suppose it depends more on the quality of materials and construction than the resilience of aluminium, and if ck enough, it shouldn’t be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 4 hours ago, Snagger said: I’m not sure if an aluminium tank might be more prone to cracking, though; I suppose it depends more on the quality of materials and construction than the resilience of aluminium Same here, best advice I've seen is that alloy tanks are mounted in a cradle with a little rubber or similar to allow movement/flex rather than cracking mounts off etc. Although for harsh / overland conditions I'd just use steel, it's more robust and more easily repaired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 My OneTen was eventually fitted with a "plastic" tank for the Td5. Fits OK, you need to make a small mod. but no real issues. We also fitted a Series filler with the "extension" for easier filling with jerrycans. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted March 12 Author Share Posted March 12 20 hours ago, Arjan said: My OneTen was eventually fitted with a "plastic" tank for the Td5. Fits OK, you need to make a small mod. but no real issues. We also fitted a Series filler with the "extension" for easier filling with jerrycans. Thanks mate... what year Landy did you fit it to please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Just a question. Is it really common, that these fuel tanks get leaky? My original tank went leaky due to rust after 33 years and I had to replace it 3 years ago. I am afraid it was a britpart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Mid. '90s Have more pics if you'd like. People have also fitted Discovery tanks (also "plastic") Have one of those sitting here you can have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted March 12 Author Share Posted March 12 1 hour ago, Sigi_H said: Just a question. Is it really common, that these fuel tanks get leaky? My original tank went leaky due to rust after 33 years and I had to replace it 3 years ago. I am afraid it was a britpart. It is in Africa when you are driving off-road and on bad corrugations for thousands of km's. My current one is Britpart, before that Bearmach, seemed the same tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Ok, but when I see it right, this does not ssem to be a problem here in Europe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 6 minutes ago, Sigi_H said: Ok, but when I see it right, this does not ssem to be a problem here in Europe? Have you ever driven long distance at speed on dirt / corrugated roads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 I did, but never in Europe. Thats why i´d like to know wheter this is a general problem. It seems not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted March 12 Author Share Posted March 12 7 hours ago, Sigi_H said: I did, but never in Europe. Thats why i´d like to know wheter this is a general problem. It seems not. Doubt it, here it is a common problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted March 12 Author Share Posted March 12 A few pictures of my setup... the grey Wurth putty that is circled in black is the previous leaks, now leaking again, plus where I think the new leak is from... Note how the wing tank is hooked up top and bottom, ideally don't want to replace it as well else ££££! (I have a 90 tank under the passenger seat which pumps via a switch/12 volt pump into the rear wing tank) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 I've got some britpart tanks at work, I'll have a peep inside one to see if there's anything of note. There's not much weight in them compared to an old genuine one, I fitted one recently and was surprised how easy it was to hold up with one hand overhead while I fiddled with the bolts. I guess when you get to the stage of replacing the tank, have a plate seam welded to the bottom which would prevent some flex and contain a drip. If you get another drip, I had great success with a big self tapper, washer and a square of tyre sticky plug- last one was on three years before I swapped the tank 😄 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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