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200Tdi Discovery engine into Defender


Jon W

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Once my exams finish next week I will be stripping a Discovery and putting the engine in my 2.5 petrol 90. Have read the various write up's people have done so far and they are very helpful. Only thing i haven't seen is what i need to do to the fuel tank as most people have swapped diesel for diesel. So do i need to get a new tank, or just run a return to my current tank and remove the fuel pump as it is not needed.

Also the other question is does anyone have a diagram/measurements for the down pipes they have made or made more than and would like to sell me? I know steve parker sell the exhaust down pipes but at £123 :o it seem a bit excessive for a short piece of exhaust.

Thanks

Jon

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there are several people on here that have done there own exhausts so I am sure they can answer that one for you..

but for the tank - it shouldn't matter should it? I have just looked at the diagrams and the tanks are all the same, apart from the early ones where the filler nozel on the tank points up, instead of accross like the newer ones.

the filter attatchment bit is the same from v8 to diesal (again apart from really early).. so would guess pipes are similar but they are different part numbers.

hope this helps.

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Also the other question is does anyone have a diagram/measurements for the down pipes they have made or made more than and would like to sell me? I know steve parker sell the exhaust down pipes but at £123 :o it seem a bit excessive for a short piece of exhaust.

Thanks

Jon

Beleive me mate its going to be money well spent , I had the same idea when i did mine to build my own down pipe but after about 6 hours of mincing around with bending , cutting and welding tubes , I soon gave Parkers a bell and ordered one of their pipes and it fitted a treat , just had to move the clutch pipe bracket on the bulkhead .

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Les Brock had a Stainless steel place make his and Les Henson made a superb one

But both are either lucky to live near a dairy fabricators or be very skilled at welding

After seeing a Steve Parker one I'd follow Jase's advice and buy one

one less job to worry about and it'll last for ages

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Ok thanks for that. I was going to buy the exhaust as saves the hassle etc. but my mate said we would be able to make one up quite easily. But granted it is a pain getting it right and putting engine in and out, hence if i could copy one i would, as leaves more money in the student beer fund! But easy option it is then.

Cheers

Jon

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While the engine is out of the vehicle - move the clutch pipe bracket as far towards the wing as possible and re-attach it or it'll move about. To make the downpipe you really need the engine to be in the vehicle in order to make sure it passes between the chassis rail and engine block. The bulkead support bracket has two bolts that secure it to the chassis - you either nedd to turn them round so that the ectra thread that sticks through the nut on the inside is out of the way (or grind it flush with the nut while the engine is still out. 2 x 90-deg bends, the old downpipe of the old engine, and straight section are what you need, but you need to reduce the curve of the bends in order to get the downpipe to line up with the rest of the system. It's best to do a small adjustment at a time and test fit each time to be sure you are doing it right. A small slit with a plasma blade can gradually decrease a curve until it's right. The finished item is a bit of an odd shape. A couple that I have done - a 90 and a 110:-

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The important thing is to make sure that the bends are as smooth as possible - a sharp bend will create excessive back pressure which could affect your top speed. As long as you can weld and have a bit of patience, you should be able to do it yourself. Parts to make the downpipe cost around £40 if you use new piping. The sharp bend in the 3rd picture is really too sharp, but in this case top end speed wasn't important.

Les.

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What Les said...

I bought myself a couple of s-haped tailpipes for a Volvo and a friend made a 60 mm hole in a piece of 10 mm sheetmetal to be used as the flange.

Only one of the bends needed to be cut out to get a steeper curve, the rest were used as they were. Not that complicated really, just lots of diving underneath for checking and rechecking. ;):)

Since welding isn't one of my best merits, I just tacked the pipes together and handed over the final job to my son who works at a body shop. :rolleyes:

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Guest diesel_jim

The fuel tanks are the same, i swapped a v8 EFI for a 200Tdi, then put a 300 back in again, and used the same tank each time, no modifications needed.

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You will need either defneder oil cooler pipes or to lengthen them as the disco ones are to short.

Exhaust as above.

On the one I just did for a mate we had to use any old intercooler pipes we had lying around, as it had a deadline and a very tight budget, this was a real PITA so beware wen ended up cutting the inner wing. :o But hey ho needs must and all that.

We also used the disco power steering system wich then puts the resovoir on the oposite side which the clashes with the airbox. We solved this by making up two brackets that bolted to the four ready tapped holes on the front cover, and welded to the side of the of the original box. Obviously with the legs cut off the bottom.

Thats all I can rembember off the top of my head.

Andy

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  • 3 weeks later...

Right I have got the new engine in and done various jobs on it. Now I have a few questions.

On the glow plug relay which I took off the discovery to put into my originally petrol land rover. The loom has 3 wires. Obviously power. an earth? and other??

Also with the fuel system. I have plumbed it all in copying off the discovery. But is the fuel pump in the tank still needed. Can i leave it in there working or should I remove it/unplug it.

Also does the system need bleeding and if so how??

Thanks

Jon

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Right I have got the new engine in and done various jobs on it. Now I have a few questions.

On the glow plug relay which I took off the discovery to put into my originally petrol land rover. The loom has 3 wires. Obviously power. an earth? and other??

Also with the fuel system. I have plumbed it all in copying off the discovery. But is the fuel pump in the tank still needed. Can i leave it in there working or should I remove it/unplug it.

Also does the system need bleeding and if so how??

Thanks

Jon

Hi

I have just finnished fitting a disco 200TDI into a V8 Defender (1999 V8), I used a 300 TDI engine harness as it was a straight swap. left the fuel pump in the tank (no power to it with 300 harness).

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Guest WALFY
Right I have got the new engine in and done various jobs on it. Now I have a few questions.

On the glow plug relay which I took off the discovery to put into my originally petrol land rover. The loom has 3 wires. Obviously power. an earth? and other??

Also with the fuel system. I have plumbed it all in copying off the discovery. But is the fuel pump in the tank still needed. Can i leave it in there working or should I remove it/unplug it.

Also does the system need bleeding and if so how??

Thanks

Jon

When I did mine I fitted the glow plug relay on the b/head but never got round to wiring it up. I just unplugged the existing fuel pump and ran with the 1 on the engine.

As for bleeding on the side of the engine block to the rear of the FIP you'll see the fuel pump, it has a spring loaded flap thing on it. You need to crack to bolt on top of the fuel filter housing and then pump the flap thing, when you get all the air out and clear fuel through tighten the bolt and start engine.

HTH

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Thanks to everyone who helped. The tech archive was most useful and I probably wouldn't have tried the conversion without seeing pictures and others write ups.

The engine is in and runs well and am very happy with it.

Question now is which temp sender and gauge should i use. I currently have the sender and gauge from the 2.5petrol in it and this reads above normal and just below the black. Is this due to the diesel running hotter and hence gauge reading wrong. I know the engine is not over heating as when it came out of the discovery it was reading normal, and in the defender it reaches remains at the same so the thermostat is working.

Thanks

Jon

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I dont know the difference in the Ohm range between the 200tdi sender and the 4cyl petrol, but that could be an explanation. I'm a guage-replacement freak anyway because I like to have numbers on my guages - so replacing both together couldnt hurt.

Incidentally, when I converted my NAS V8 to Tdi, I took out the guts of the in-tank fuel pump and made a pickup tube that fit in its place.

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If you are using the sender and gauge from the original engine then you should IMHO not have a problem. I would say that the gauge sitting in a different place is almost certainly due to it being a different engine with a different operating temperature.

Pete.

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Well I had the rad and intercooler out today as had access to a hose pipe and flushed through the rad and got nasty rusty colour water out. Put it all back together and the engine is definately running cooler and runs at half way on the gauge now. I know the Rad is a bit tired so will keep an eye on it and replace it soon.

I have also order the X-eng fan switch so will wire that up to the electric fan.

Thanks

Jon

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Hello,

Just to clarify - doesnt a 200 TDi engine have or use a "lift pump" of somekind to get the fuel from the tank to the Fuel Injection pump?

For example, in my BMW 325TDS, there is a fuel pump in the tank, which then supplies the fuel injection pump on the engine itself. I thought this is how all modern diesels work. Ditto in a Toyota Surf/4 Runner, thought.

If there isnt such a pump, that is a good part of the headache of a conversion done with.

Regards

Udhi

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Phew, thats another 5bpm off my heart rate, thanks Pete.

Hmm, how does the bleed work? I was planning to plumb the return straight back into the feed, just after the filter. This will solve a long return and also having to cope with twin fuel tanks. Prob with a loop is, that an airlock will have no means of escape the way I would do it......unless...I plumb it back just before this lift pump..any ideas from the horde? :blink:

Udhi

Yes the 200TDi does have a lift pump. It is mounted on the engine and driven by a lobe on the cam. It also has a lever to draw fuel from the tank to help bleed the system.

Pete.

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Phew, thats another 5bpm off my heart rate, thanks Pete.

Hmm, how does the bleed work? I was planning to plumb the return straight back into the feed, just after the filter. This will solve a long return and also having to cope with twin fuel tanks. Prob with a loop is, that an airlock will have no means of escape the way I would do it......unless...I plumb it back just before this lift pump..any ideas from the horde? :blink:

Udhi

Return shoud go back to tank, standard lift pump will cope with the long return. There is a return from the fuel filter and also the injector pump/injector spill rail, Its all "T"ed together near the fuel filter with a single return line to the tank. Normally it will all self prime and bleed once there is fuel in the filter. Im sure someone will post the parts cat pic on here for you....

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