Hybrid_From_Hell Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Between 'Powder Coating' and 'Stove enamelling' ? What are the pros n cons for use on and with steel ? Ta Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 can't explain the difference in use, but the difference in technology is thus: 1. Stove enamelling is a method of curing paint to a substrate- in the past these were oil baed paints but are now more likely to be acrylic based. The baking of the enamel allows thick coats to be applied yet leave an easthetically pleasing finish which is highly durable to wear and heat- often used on items such as model steam trains and the like. What stove enamelling is doing is speeding up the curing process, in contrast to: 2. Powder coating- in this process it is the heat itself which attachs the powder coat to the substrate. Applied electrostatically to the metal the powder coat (being negatively charged) sticks to any postively charged metal. This coated metal is tehn baked at temperature to effectively melt the coating to the metal. In practice the two techniques look very very similar- both are preceeded by the necessity of very good cleaning- often shotblasting and certainly degreasing. They are then coated and in the type of coating and then baked. Enamelling is often baked at a higher temperature than powder coating (often high enough to melt solder) and teh finish is one of very high gloss. One of the benefits of stove enameling is that chips can be easily re-touched with the same paint work. Ali can be enameled but needs alocroming first- a process which chemically alters the surface of the aluminium and allows it to be painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 I can explain a little about the practical side.. in use. We supply a lot of coated metal plant at work, for Navy applications, we generally hate powder coat as it can chip easily, is impossible to touch up and once it has chipped, water will get under the surface and rust will take hold everywhere. We prefer either stove enamelled or two-pack epoxy finishes as they are more durable, and can be touched up after the shipyard have chipped it. I wouldn't use powder coat on stuff going on my landy unless it was zinc coated first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 When we did powder coating at school years ago, we had to heat the metal up first so that it was basicly glowing then the powder was blown over it and melted on contact with the hot metal. I would have thought that baking would be painting the enamel on then baking it after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Had some disco rims powder coated. Probably wouldn't bother again due to reasons mentioned above (chips, water gets underneath and can't touch up). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 When we did powder coating at school years ago, we had to heat the metal up first so that it was basicly glowing then the powder was blown over it and melted on contact with the hot metal.I would have thought that baking would be painting the enamel on then baking it after. that's the hobbiest's way of doing it- although not ineffective it doesn't allow such depth of powder coat. i used to have a big box which you blew air into thus lifting the powder coat and allowing you ti dip the hot metal right into it. i like the look of stove enamelling but it might be a bit bling to have a really shiny gloss roll cage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 So, just to hijack Mr From Hell's post completely, if someone wanted to coat the rusty springs on their Unimog, the best option would be to shot blast them, then...? 2 pack epoxy? (Is that a dip, or a spray?). Anywhere in Hampshire that does it cheapish? Ta, Al (Sorry Mr From Hell) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 What are you planning now - is this a new coating for the 3G KittyGripper B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Stove enameling is definitely tougher and better than powder coat. Powder coat can't be effectively repaired like enamel can - which is why you see taped-over bull bars etc where the powder coat has been damaged. I think stove enamel is a more expensive process though. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Stove enamelling results in a much harder gloss finish which can be touched in if chipped. I've used it a lot in the past for refinishing wheels and cast iron manifolds etc on restoration projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Agree with the above and would add that gritblasting won't remove either coating!! I've seen powder coating peel off like a skin, leaving rusty metal underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2hotdog Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Nige I don't know to much about stove enammeling other than its tougher than powder coating - we don't use it much - a type is used on sinks etc With regards to powder coating - we use it alot on ali and steel - and agree with above it can be chipped easily and will rust if the base metal is not galvanised We tend to powder coat onto shotblasted untreated metal for internal applications and galvanise then powder coat on external applications - but the galvanising has to be fetteled alot to get a good finish as all the imperfections will show in the powder coating. The other option is to flame zinc spray and then powder coat - best of both worlds I would consider galvanising only for wheels if thats what your planning as a tough finish - won't look that good though Hope this is of help Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 So no opinions on the best way to treat some old springs? Cheers,Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 So no opinions on the best way to treat some old springs?Cheers,Al. Dismantle, clean and grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2hotdog Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 So no opinions on the best way to treat some old springs?Cheers,Al. Shot bast and a coat of primer or wire brush and prime- whatever the finish won't last long due to the movement in the springs IMHO Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Stove enameling is definitely tougher and better than powder coat. Powder coat can't be effectively repaired like enamel can - which is why you see taped-over bull bars etc where the powder coat has been damaged. I think stove enamel is a more expensive process though.Les. Les, I think you are thinking of plastic coating not enamel or powder coat. Most bull bars have a plastic shrunk film I guess very similar to the other processes and liked by bull bar manufacturers because it is cheap. But get some water under the layer and it rusts the steel underneath and the plastic comes off in strips and looks terrible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Whatever the coating / painting if the metal has sharp edges then that is where the finish will first flake-off. All edges need radiussing, usually just with an orbital sander to "break" the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 2k epoxy is a paint, available in plenty of colours, used on boats a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 2k epoxy is a paint, available in plenty of colours, used on boats a lot. Oh yeah - I painted hull of my boat with it! Must have dozed off for a minute there! Cool, I'll blast the springs and then figure what I'm gonna do. I wouldn't mind coating them with something, sure it'll crack eventually, but they'll stay sane longer with a coat on. Ok, cheers. Sorry for the hijack Nige... Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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