90 Mellis Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 In the process of sorting some proper recovery points out on my 90. Whats my options?! Not to keen on using a standard towball, but a few scutineers have told me I can't use welded recovery points. They have also not been keen on the use of shackles?! Any thoughts?? Cheers Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ex_mod_90 Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Hi Mike, I am a big fan of proper quality Jate rings, these fit in the original mountings for the lashing eyes on the chassis. My prefered recovery is using a bridle across the jate rings and then a good quality strap looped through this, not joined with shackles..... I have only ever used so called one piece jate rings often found on military vehicles, they are top notch. Another very useful recover point is to use a NATO tow hitch, just make sure you have both spreader plates (one for each side of the cross member) Rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ3120 Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 this is was in the tech archive recovery points hope it helps Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 there's a recent thread about recovery points/fitting, do a search & you'll find lots to read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Banning a welded recovery point is daft. Even if it's not welded, it will be bolted to something else that's welded! I suspect it would be allowed if it looks up to the job! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Banning a towball welded to the crossmember would be sensible though! You must have seen them. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Si's about hit the nail. I won't allow batch tested or ductile shackles only individually stamped/rated with a minimum of 3.75 tonne but I prefer 4.75. If it's welded on and looks to be designed well and built well and what ever it's welded to is bolted on properly then fine. I don't allow ball hitches of any sort, don't like 3.5 tonne pin hitches unless in tandem (but JST makes me say they are okay). Mind you part of the fun of scrutineering is being a fussy ba**ard and always having the reason for it - ie someones life! You can usually tell which vehicles are going to be the ones to look closely at - Fridgefreezers is a good example, old nail , with big tyres driven by a raving nutter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul64 Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 I need the following for my NATO hitch. 2 x bits of good quality steel plate approx 190x110mm and at least 8mm thick (spreader plates) 4 x M12 high tensile bolts, 8.8 grade or higher, nuts and washers to match Anyone know where would be a good place to order them from? Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 To give you some food for thought........... I was one of 3 marshals dispatched to recover a Amoured ferret stuck in a water bog deep, full of water and big time bellied out at the AWDC event 27th Dec 2007 Whilst I snapped my plasma (not suprised it has had a couple of years of V HD use) I was stunned to find a 6.75 shackle not easily undone. I always do shackles up, then back off 1/4 turn, this took stilsons to undo, later at home cleaned....... I could see it had twisted. As such it went in the bin........... Remember this when you but shackles,.......... unrated untested ? .........are you mad ? Tested but less than 4.75 ........as HH says is frankly unrated ..............although tested, 4.75T should be your MINIMUM Add snatch blocks etc and a BIG TIME stuck 4x4 and ratings can easily jump up in Tonnage Also BIG shackles give more space for ropes stropes and mounting etc, 4.75t can sometimes be a tight sqeeze. I do not like ANY recovery point for HD revcovery that in effect has just one bolt, be it in tension (swivelly hook thingies) or even jate rings (in shear), ................when Jate rings are paired at least they are twinned and doubled up. Best rear recovery IMHO for a 90 is a decent quality D ring with 4 bolts or a NATO hitch if your not bothered on overhang, and FFS fit a good spreader plate behind and use RATED Bolts etc !! HTH Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Horsevad Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Tested shackles are allways mentioned when discussing recovery methods. And probably with good cause - the are pretty dangerrous when the disintegrate. But nobody ever mentiones the few inches of weld which holds the rear crossmember in place... I thought it was a joke when people were telling me stories of heavy-duty recoveries where rear crossmembers were torn right off. After having seen it myself the laughing kind of stops. No matter how many spreader plates and hi-tensile bolts that NATO hook is secured with ultimately one rely on the strenght of a few inches of welding. One advise would therefore be to make sure the crossmember is thorougly welded to the main chassis rails and possibly weld in some triangulating reinforcements. JATE rings are - in my opinion - to weak for serious work. In anything other than a very straight pull they twist, bend, turn and disintegrate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Horsevad Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Double post - MOD please remove.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Yep I would agree with all of the above I have winched entire front (and rear Ooooer) ends off RR LR 90s And suzukis and without even trying rot is often the cause Involve a KERR and or untested shackles and a nutter .......and all sorts of nightmares can ensue Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Horsevad Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Another double post - dont know what happened - MOD please remove... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Horsevad Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 YepI would agree with all of the above I have winched entire front (and rear Ooooer) ends off RR LR 90s And suzukis and without even trying rot is often the cause Involve a KERR and or untested shackles and a nutter .......and all sorts of nightmares can ensue Nige Been there too - nearly tore a Nissan apart a few years ago... The Nissan driver had got stuck in a small dune on the beach - he had just bought the vehicle and thougt it was in great condition... Main chaissis rails were cracked just behind rear spring hangers.... One of the incidents involving a flying rear crossmember was a brand new vehicle (owned and driven by the danish LR importer!) He got stuck in a river crossing on the beach, and in the subsequent recovery the whole rear crossmember got torn of... The vehicle was brand new (pre td5 chassis)! Btw... How do a RR look with front and rear missing? I presume the driver wasnt really happy with the situation...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 YepI would agree with all of the above I have winched entire front (and rear Ooooer) ends off RR LR 90s And suzukis and without even trying rot is often the cause Involve a KERR and or untested shackles and a nutter .......and all sorts of nightmares can ensue Nige Nige, I decided I'd seen it all when I saw someone winching and 'assisting' with a KERR I could see a Dawin Award winner in the making there! As others have said, theres nothing wrong with welded recovery points if they're done using the right materials and properly designed. Welding a tow hitch to a rear cross member doesn't quite tick those boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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