popotla Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 For LR Defender Td5 110 CSW (2005), is it metric bolt/nut sizes or inches? Should I buy a 1/4 inch drive socket set, or 3/8 inch? Which socket sizes are “must have” and what are the sizes which it’s a good idea to have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 I would buy a 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive socket set that has both metric and imperial sockets, up to 24 mm and 1"1/4 sizes. There is one bigger socket that you may need eventually if you are doing your own maintenance, a 30 mm but that can be bought when required. Try and buy one that has long 7mm (jubilee clips), 8mm, 10mm, 1/2" and 13mm sockets as these will be found plenty of use. Buy good quality and it will always be there when you need it, the sockets usually last well but on cheap sets the ratchets tend not to last to long. Some extension bars with the rounded drive end to allow you to use your ratchet at an angle to the job (wobble bars) are a good idea too HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 You realy want to make my head hurt don't you I use 3/8 drive most of the time I have a 3/8 female to 1/2 inch male adapter what I use on my 3/8 ratchet. Sockets 10, 11, 12, 13, 17, 19 will be most used. You will also need a 9/16Af for the prop bolts. Here is where a 9/16 quarter drive socet helps AFTER you've loosened the nuts first. Now I also have 13.17,19 and 21 in half inch drive which I use with a two foot knucle bar, then to the 3/8 stuff. Might I suggest you buy a lot of stuff as you need it. Unless you can get the Halfords Professional kit when it's on offer. You didn't mention spanners ? Again, I suggest you buy as you need. HTH I bet I've missed something off there. Well if I have I'll soon know about it mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 A page I wrote some time ago. Might be of some use to you. Tools. Some advice. Please discuss -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This was in answer to what tools are required to look after a Defender. As a mechanic please listen. Buy GOOD tools for the workshop.The "Rubbish" stuff can stay in the car. Sockets. The BEST are Snap-on.They are also the best price.However if you find a good dealer you'll be able to pay each week!!! The 90/110 has a mix of A/F metric. So try for sockets from 7/16A/F to 3/4A/F. Also sockets from 10mm to 19mm.Anything larger buy as needed for the job. Where sockets are concerned I use 3/8 drive for most things although you'll need to use 1/2 inch drive for the stubbon sizes from about 9/16A/f 13mm.again buy as required.I don't even have a 1/2inch drive ratchet only 3/8 drive.I do have two 1/2 inch knuckle bars.one long and one a sensible size. Spanners. Again,follow the socket advice.I find the Draper Elora[sp] series good,I generally get the combination type.Buy the sets 1/2in A/F to 3/4 A/F and the similar sizes in metric. A cheap 1/4 drive socket set will do for most work.You can buy new sockets if you break them as and when. You'll need a good hammer.2lb ball or 1 1/2lb. Screwdrivers. A variety of blade widths and lengths also the Phillips/pozi drive. Don't go uot and buy "everything" get them as needed. I notice Halfords are selling some very nice ratchet combination spanners as a good price. Throw away that bent wire wheel nut spanner supplied by Land Rover.Get a deep impact socket and a knuckle bar to use instead.Also a two foot length of pipe to fit over the knuckle bar for the difficult wheel nut. Have a look at the Difflock site as well.Ther'll also be advice there. Ask again if you need more info. This in reply to why I use a deep socket for wheel nuts. Two reasons, It stands the bar away from the wheel bodywork!!You will have complete confidence if you have top stand on the knuckle bar to remove a stubbon wheel nut. You can always lend it to the tyre fitter to remove your wheels with his windy gun.They often "loose" that size socket so as not to do the job.LOL Go to a scrapyard and get a couple of small scissor jacks.The small ones in most of the little Jap cars are good enough. These can be used in a variety of ways. Never for lifting the Land Rover. Holding bits into place,moving a component. Even jacking bodywork into place. Anything but lifting a car. Use a trolley jack for that please. Dont also get a hacksaw and junior hachsaw, buy the blades in full packets, you always have a spare. Bench and vice. If you are lucky enough to have a dry place to work, not necessarily the vehicle inside, get a good heavy workbench. Wood ones tend to move less than a metal one. Quieter to work on as well. Put a leg either under or a near a possible to the vice. Get the largest vice you can afford or aquire. Mine was a throw out from work as one jaw was missiong,I soon found a jaw!! To fit a vice.... Put the vice on the bench. Put either two pieces of metal or wood into the jaws hanging down so they'll hit the front of the bench. Push the vice up to the front of the bench until the two bits of wood/metal hit the front of the bench. Drill, fit bolts and remove the wood/metal. Now you can fit anything into the vice and the front of the bench won't stop you. Vice Grips. I prefere this make to all others.Get a variety of sizes.Used for all sorts. There are plenty of sensably priced two ton trolly jacks about. Yes a two ton jack will lift one corner at a time. You may need a block of wood to gain extra height with the jack. Axle stands are also needed.You might want to look at fairly high ones to fit under the chassis. Another tip for jacking. You can use this with a Hi-Lift recovery jack as well. Screw some plywood to the undersisde of the battery box lid. You now have a jack spreader plate. _________________ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 I bet I've missed something off there. Well if I have I'll soon know about it mike Yep, 52mm socket for hub nuts You'll also need allen keys and torx drivers in places too Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 Yep, 52mm socket for hub nuts You'll also need allen keys and torx drivers in places too Steve I prefere the deep "tin" socket that I can use a bar/screwdriver through...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacks906 Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 how much are you planning to do yourself?? also add to the list big hammer and brew making equipment dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 32mm R380 drain plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 plywood battery box idea also good for stopping the batt terminals welding themselves to the lid when you may or may not have forgotten to clamp them down again mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 For LR Defender Td5 110 CSW (2005), is it metric bolt/nut sizes or inches?Should I buy a 1/4 inch drive socket set, or 3/8 inch? Which socket sizes are “must have” and what are the sizes which it’s a good idea to have? I just have a 1/2 and 1/4 inch metric drives and have survived so far. Worth having more than one 13mm spanner, as one is never enough A 2' and 4' breaker bar to make your life easier. I also got those ratchet spanners from Halfords and they are brilliant. Other than that, I buy sockets as I need them, examples being the crank, drop arm and trailing arm nuts to date. Also the brake calipers are 13mm 12 point, which I robbed from an old socket set. Oh, and a viscous fan spanner if that applies to you. Edited to add: Difflock's prop tool is invaluable too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nidge Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 For LR Defender Td5 110 CSW (2005), is it metric bolt/nut sizes or inches?Should I buy a 1/4 inch drive socket set, or 3/8 inch? Which socket sizes are “must have” and what are the sizes which it’s a good idea to have? The most important tool you will need when working on your landie is, Patience and doesn't cost anything !!!! On a serious note I found that the ratchet type ring spanners very handy Sizes - 10, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Tonkin Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 I use 1/2" for everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowfinger Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 Make sure you have a 13mm of everything - normal socket, deep socket, ring spanner, open ended spanner. I've just dismantled my 110 CSW and I took to leaving all my 13mm stuff in my overall pockets because most times nuts and bolts turned out to be 13mm, this way I didn't have to scramble out from under wherever I was to find the right socket/spanner. If you've got a bit of spare cash and feel like treating yourself I would seriously recommend a cordless impact driver. I have a Bosch GDR 10.8 V-LI Professional. They are quite pricey but you'll notice the difference between a professional tool and a DIY tool the minute to pick it up. It's about the size of a Star Trek phaser and was my most used tool during the strip down of my 110 CSW. It made undoing nuts and bolts less of a knuckle skinning exercise as all I had to do was hold a ring spanner on one side and let the impact driver do the rest. Makes a very manly rattling noise too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACK CAB Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 I use a lot of Halfords Pro range, its actually rather good for the money. I use two of their large socket/spanner sets + additional items brought as required, viscous spanner, circlip pliers, large hide mallet, 2lb engineering hammer etc. As stated previously in this thread a lot of sockets from sets are hardly ever used , thing is there are some really good deals on sets at the moment , check out the Halfords website. Another worth while purchase is a 3/4" drive socket set I have a Draper one, very useful on things like stubborn 15/16" - 30mm radius arm nuts etc. I find it easier to use than a 1/2" bar with a sleeve pipe. I prefer a 3 Ton trolley jack + axle stands, the 3 ton jacks tend to be that bit wider and subsequently more stable than most of the 2 ton jacks. It makes light work of my Defender. Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 I prefere the deep "tin" socket that I can use a bar/screwdriver through...... That's fine for yours, but for a TD5 you won't. You'll have a hell of job trying to get one off like that. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 That's fine for yours, but for a TD5 you won't. You'll have a hell of job trying to get one off like that.Cheers Steve Not worked on one of these modern things yet....... My mate doesn't seem to have a proble with that socket, he's even bought his own and doesn't borrow mine anymore. I've a 52mm socket here I don't use..... mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvio Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Actually, no more imperial sizes in a Td5 defender, except (as said before) the 9/16" AF for propshaft bolts and for the nuts fixing differential to axle casing in Rover type diff, and the 3/4" AF required for the 1/2" UNF bolt fixing steering box bracket to chassis. Oh sorry, I was forgetting two 1/2" AF nuts on the clutch master cylinder pushrod, a Series heritage...but you should have a 1/2"AF spanner in the vehicle tool set (but you'll have to grind the fork sides a bit, otherwise it won't pass in the opening of the clutch pedal bracket. You'll need also some torx (door hinges, for instance) and allen keys, and particularly a Torx 55 for the fill plug in the main gearbox (R380); as for ratchets, I'd go for a 1/2" dirve set, which can handle well most of the bolt sizes, from small to large (even if a 3/4" drive setmight be handy for large bolts in the suspension department). The 1/2" square drive ratchet is also convenient for fill/drain plugs in transfer box and differentials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 My mate doesn't seem to have a proble with that socket, he's even bought his own and doesn't borrow mine anymore. The tubular steel box spanner that needs a bar through is not up to the job for the later single staked nuts IMHO. I managed to bend a bar through mine and then went on to snap the toughened screwdriver shaft I passed through it. I then made the holes bigger and used a long 1/2" extension bar to turn it with success. I had mine modified by shortening it with an old 1/2" drive socket welded to it. That did the job well and I have now converted to the old 2 'half' nut system for which it is fine. If I were staying with the new system then a proper 52mm (2 1/16" actually IIRC) would be needed as you need to apply a high torque to tighten the stake nut properly. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacks906 Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 i'm one for the halfords pro bits an bobs but snap on, teng etc ratchets an ratchet spanners i'd also buy a few cheap sets of spanners so you can modify them for the job you need it to do also some 30mm x 5mm flat bar welded together is ideal for makin a viscous fan spanner dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 A leather/copper faced mallet/hammer is also a good investment and one I will be making shortly after ruining my wooden mallet removing a CV from a half shaft. Not tools exactly, but you will also benefit from keeping WD40, Copper grease and normal grease in stock... Latex gloves also come in handy for those jobs involving EP90 as the smell lasts for days on your hands... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Not tools exactly, but you will also benefit from keeping WD40, Copper grease and normal grease in stock...Latex gloves also come in handy for those jobs involving EP90 as the smell lasts for days on your hands... ..and brake cleaner, not only for cleaning parts, but also for cleaning tools after you've been working on anything that involved EP90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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