western Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 From vehicle painting pointers not all are 90/110 Defender colours COLOUR WHITE YEAR CODE 755 BT Ford Diamond White (Ral-9001) 01- LRC.755 603 German Border Police White 99-99 LRC.60 NCA Arctic White 75-85 LRC.273 273 Arctic White 75-85 LRC.273 354 Ivory White, Chamonix White, Davos White 94-90 LRC.354 NCM Ivory White, Chamonix White, Davos White 84-90 LRC.354 456 Alpine White, Savarin White 90-97 LRC.456 456 Alpine White, Savarin White 90-97 LRC.456(L) 456 Alpine White, Savarin White 90-97 LRC.456(Y) NUC Alpine White, Savarin White 90-97 LRC.456 NUC Alpine White, Savarin White 90-97 LRC.456(L) NUC Alpine White, Savarin White 90-97 LRC.456(Y) NAL Chawton White 2ct 98- LRC.NAL 603 Chawton White 2ct 98- LRC.603 714 White GS (Engine Bay) 98 LRC.714 TS714 White GS (Tinted Surfacer) 99 LRC.TS714 NNZ Old English White 00-02 LRC.753 NCL Alaska (Porcelain) White 06 LRC.909 NUQ Whistler White 06 LRC.922 PA3 Denham White 04 LRC.PA3 suspect yours is Chawton White Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 Chris, as Ralph says yours will be Chawton White LRC603. Prior to that the Defenders were Alpine White, but that was some way back in the Tdis - think it may have changed to Chawton when the Td5 came in (99 model year) but I don't remember exactly. There is a new white called Alaska White on the very latest models (not seen it in the flesh yet) but yours will definitely be Chawton. I think Alaska only came in with the Puma vehicles. Although we do some body repairs at work we don't have the ability to colour match but white is one of the few colours that seems pretty much guaranteed to match every time so if yours is noticeably different I would think there is a possibility they have used entirely the wrong colour - some of the older shades of white vary quite considerably in their "creaminess" if that make sense some of the poofy colours like silver and sky blue pink are a bugger to get right but white is pretty safe usually! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 Chris regarding the wheel spats , They should of painted the spats Matt or a Satin black to match the rest , Those black gloss spats look terible . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 My nas is Alpine white and it is very slightly creamy white, not at all like your 110 Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 Matt spats are still available so that's poo. Chris is right, there is only one type available from LR. The good thing is that in about 6 months time they will match the rest of the spats and will be nice and matt I know this from experience , a couple of times now Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 I bought a shiny spat for my 90 then lightly sprayed it with thinners (which disolved the surface where the droplets landed). Once the thinners had evaporated, it had a pretty even matt finish! The spray has to just be a light dusting. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 As said , there are usually several different shades of any vehicle colour depending on which paint batch was in use in the factory when the vehicle was built. As an example, Ford Diamond White in DuPont Centari has 9 shades that I know of. Yes, you can get paint eyematched - if your local motor factor offers the service - again extra time extra cost. Insurance companies will usually only pay the absolute minimum they can so they will only authorise the damaged panels to be repaired/refinished. Which is one of the reasons why bodyshops are closing - several in my area have gone bust. They can't make it pay. So machine polishing the whole of the vehicle is a non starter as the garage would have to pay for that to be done. If you paint a whole panel, you usually need to blend the colour into the adjacent panel & then lacquer the lot. Again, the insurance companies won't authorise or pay for this so the bodyshops won't do it. Silvers & pale metallics are pigs for slight variations & the insurance issue is why you often see them with slight panel mismatches. I have just checked three paint sites: Alaska White is a new 2008 colour. No variant shades yet! Chawton is shown on one as two shades,on another as three and on the third as four. Alpine/Savarin is shown as one shade on one & two on both the other. That can also give problems if the insurers specify the materials to be used. But if the colour is not right, then it goes back. Notify your insurers of the problem & get them to sort the garage out. It might need a LOT of shouting & prodding of the insurers on your part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted August 11, 2008 Author Share Posted August 11, 2008 Having lived with the car for a few weeks now, I think that the paint is not so bad after all. It seems to match the existing paint OK most of the time and under most light conditions. The car has finally gone back in this morning to have the few outstanding jobs completed and I hope to get it back either this afternoon or tomorrow morning. Fingers crossed that they get on and do the job properly this time! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 i hope it is done on time!!! when you tray back it you won't need to worry about the rear paint job at all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OilIT Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 The strange thing about this story is that when I used to work at a sparyshop (a long time ago !!) if the paint wasnt a perfect match - they used to spray the car with a hosepipe just before collection - on the premise they had just washed off the dust. Apparently a wet car makes i tharder to see paint match problems - whereas your saying it looked poor when wet and better when dry ! I would make sure you get it back to the condition you had pre accident - and accept nothing less if NFU and the garage dont help - try ABI (dont know what they would do - but Im sure NFU will make it right before you need to do that!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted August 12, 2008 Author Share Posted August 12, 2008 The car was back by yesterday lunchtime, all done. All the minor issues I had have been addressed, hinges, body mount, window rubbers, door handle etc. The paint really did seem a different colour on the day the car came back - in the rain. As I say, it now looks much better, I guess as the paint surface has had chance to oxidise a little. I just need to fill a couple of minor dents in the doors and T-cut the whole thing and it will be like the day it left the factory. Well, almost. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 I just need to fill a couple of minor dents in the doors and T-cut the whole thing and it will be like the day it left the factory. Well, almost. Cheers Chris With your form, Chris, it'll be pranged again before you get that far Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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