The Badger Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Ok, so I have all this aux electrics, want to run it allot simpler. My plan is the follow: Modular fuse, relay holder from VWP, this is wired off the main battery. From the connection I have a 70amp relay, this is triggerd on from the ignition, then this powers all the aux fuses / relays. Then all the relays are on switches, but the power to these is run through the larger relay. does this sounds alright? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 as each circuit has it's own relay I wouldn't introduce another bigger relay, just wire each through the multi fuse box. feed from battery to multi fusebox then out to each existing relay/circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougstar Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Badger, What about taking a permenent feed/supply off the battery terminal looping it across the L1/L2/L3 terminals on this contactor (cheaper ones available)and out of the T1/T2/T3 terminals of this to the normally open contacts of your relays. You will also need a neg off your battery to the A2's on all of your relays Then a negitive off the battery onto the A2 terminal of said contactor. Then a switched live off your ignition onto the A1 terminal of contactor. On the other side of your relays on the oppisite side of your normally open contacts(that you connected into earlier) this should be the supply to the fogs/floods/fuses etc etc Then last but not least your designated switches inside the cab should have a ignition switched live to one side of the switch and a switch wire off the other side out to the specific relay. Hope this makes sense or is it clear as mud?? If you get stuck let me know exactly what you have and i can knock a proper drawing up for you Good Luck Dougie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 I did the same as Ralph suggests. 35mm2 from the battery to under the drivers seat where it goes through one of these: into one of these fuse holders: which clips into one of these relay boxes: and then off to either the switchs or the device to be powered. Was pleased at how neat all these boxes made my wiring. I Would have preferred one of the modular boxes from VWP but the price was a little out of my range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougstar Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Whats the VWP box? can someone post a link / picture and or purpose please i,m really interested now Thanks D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 This is the modular box from vwp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougstar Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 This is the modular box from vwp. Thanks madcow just had a butchers at that site, Looks like a nice bit of kit there. But what type of things are you guys running off these things that warrents that much equipment?? i can think of a few............ fog lights spot lights winch isolater work lamps CB radio fridges But what else are you crazy kids carrying around with you ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted June 28, 2008 Author Share Posted June 28, 2008 Thanks madcow just had a butchers at that site,Looks like a nice bit of kit there. But what type of things are you guys running off these things that warrents that much equipment?? i can think of a few............ fog lights spot lights winch isolater work lamps CB radio fridges But what else are you crazy kids carrying around with you ?? I have the same VWP box as pictured. In it I have all the fuses and relays for: air compressor - 40 am relay driving lights - 30 amp relay sport lights - x2 25 amp micro relays trailer relay - 25 amp micro CB MAP light Work lights this leaves me with 3 micro relay slots and two more large relay slots. It is a nice bit of kit and is sitting snugly in the same box as all the other wiring, leaving load of space in the battery box. I also wired up all the empty slots anyway so it super easy to add another relay / fuse as I have to switches waiting to be wired up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Goldsmith Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 I am about to start a similar project and found you solution to the switch placement real cool! Where did you get the switches from and how easy was it fitting them on the sides of the central console? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted June 29, 2008 Author Share Posted June 29, 2008 I am about to start a similar project and found you solution to the switch placement real cool! Where did you get the switches from and how easy was it fitting them on the sides of the central console? Hi Tom Thanks for the thumbs up. The switch's and 3 way swithc holders are from MUD Taking the dash out First take the central dash out, undo the two screws to the left and right of it, then grab the edge at the top just infont of the pen tray thing, and pull, this should pop out at the top, then pull the top a bit more to pull out the middle clips, you can more your hands down a little, this will help. Dont pull it out too far now as everything it plugged in. You now need to un-plug everything, it's quite stright forward what goes where, but draw a diargram if you like. the tricky on is the hazard switch. With this out the way, you can see the amount of space lying arround in the new defender dash. For the carling switch light, it's easy to scotch lock into the dash board light + and -, to accomodate for the extra power need and not worry about the fuse for it, I switched out all the dash bulbs for LED ones from UltraLED's With that wiring done, you can link all the switch lights off this, this way when you put your side lights on, these will pop on too. Cutting the hole Mark it with a pencil (it will rub off you see) you can either measure the inset shape of a three way holder, or draw round it while holding it to the spot where you want it. When you have the mark, you can drill a small hole in each corner, and then use a new stanly blade to cut the hole. There are strengthing bits that stick out inside, you have to cut through these too which is a little tricky. The only problem is the dash in not flatt... So when the holder goes in it will not sitt nice and flatt, I wanted to make a flatt place and attach that, still might as I think it will look neater. Then there is the hole, slot in the three way, and the switchs just slot into it. Whatever you are wiring too, make sure you have enough wire to pop out through the hole, so you can attach the switch, I used a multi plg connector, as then you can wire to this and then just plug the switch into it. I hope this help, post a picture if yoo get it sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Goldsmith Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Hi Badger, Thanks for the detailed instructions on fitting the switches. I am going to take a look inside the console today before I order the switches. Taking the dash outFirst take the central dash out, undo the two screws to the left and right of it, then grab the edge at the top just infont of the pen tray thing, and pull, this should pop out at the top, Are these screws the two either side of the heating controls and do they release just the central panel containing the controls and leave the side panels with air vents in place? Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 I am going to try an alternatieve way to cut some corners and make the most use of the existing wire-loom. I have a 2005 Defender E, with no options but a complete wire-loom nevertheless. This means I have access to fuses and relais, designed to operate the electrical windows, heated seats, rear wiper and so on. The idea is the use them for spotlights and other accesories, thus eliminating the need to add wiring and fuses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted July 1, 2008 Author Share Posted July 1, 2008 Hi Badger,Thanks for the detailed instructions on fitting the switches. I am going to take a look inside the console today before I order the switches. Are these screws the two either side of the heating controls and do they release just the central panel containing the controls and leave the side panels with air vents in place? Tom yeah they are. They are star head ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackles Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Badger, Nice setup, I would love it if you could post some photos of the fuse/relay setup and how the install went. Cheers Crackles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A Twig Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Scotchlock - mmmmm My 2 cents, solder and heatshrink it together or use bullets. Less chance of going wrong and getting fires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Okay re-wire time. Options are as per this thread the modular fuse and relay box plus the marine fuse box from devon 4x4 or the modular box from vwp. The 2 fuses boxs and relay box is about £90 and the vwp with all the modules is about £120. So is the vwp £30 better ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Whilst the fuse block from Devon is good, I prefer to be able to have a direct negative connection to the battery, too. I went for a 6-way block from JG Tech . Slightly cheaper and gives you the negative bus too... They also sell a 12-way one if you need that many... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 I might be being a muppet but how does a common negative and positive bus work ? Does that just provide terminals you can connect to if you like ? I thought the positive bus might automatically feed one side of the fuses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Like this: The fuses are fed by the positive automatically on one side as you say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 okay I've bought one of those lovely boxes. And very nice it is too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Like this: The fuses are fed by the positive automatically on one side as you say http://www.furneauxriddall.com/ do a fusebox like this and also seem to be better and cheaper than vwp for some things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Mine is completely rewired from scratch using a vwp box will post a pic at the weekend when I get to the workshop, it was pricey but worth it to be lucas free! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 In the picture above can I connect that meaty negative cable directly to the battery negative ? I can't remember if I heard once that you shouldn't do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 Yep, no reason why not, it's the best earth connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 That's where mine goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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