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What fuel?


Max Series-3

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If its got spark plugs you can use petrol, but will probably need a lead substitute unless head has been modded

If it turns out to be a diesel, dont be tempted to use bio diesel, or veg oil just normal diesel .

I have answered this to cover any question I can concieve that you are trying to ask .

Try and enrol in a local education facility for a basic vehicle owners class . as this will greatly assist you in understanding and operating motorized carriages :unsure: B)

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So, we have at least established that it is a petrol one right?

and your actual question is 'can I use unleaded petrol in my petrol series 3?'

if so, then yes you can run a normal unmodified petrol 2286 on unleaded as they were designed to run on very low grade fuel. If you are worried, then either use a lead substitute/additive or change th head for one with hardened valve seats.

may I suggest you ask a more specific quesiton next time, or at the very least give some more information about the vehicle in question?

Thanks

Mark

(with moderator hat firmly on...)

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Well then, today we've learned how to ask a question and include relevant information - you have now passed your GCSE :P

In fairness, I'm just dealing with <150 final year BSc students who have to do some kind of build-and-documentation project; about 20-25% don't have any more targeted questions! - so getting people to ask the right questions to elicit answers that will work for them is no mean feat.

Must ask Max - how did you manage to find a never-been-registered classic? - it's so nice, it's a shame to alter it too much. I think final gearing and big tyres, raised air inlet, but don't bank on going swimming in it - it's still a petrol, with spark plugs and things, and keeping water out of the electrics would be hard; you'd be better chucking a dinghy in the back.

What kind of work did the truck do before?

what's it like for rust in all those hidden places?

good luck with the project

;)

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Hey he is 13 we should incourage not take the P*** :rolleyes:

Lesson 2 - having a sense of humour and taking gentle ribbing :rolleyes:

Oh and no marks for spelling - it's encourage, dear boy. :P

Back on topic, you can make a petrol work underwater just as well as a diesel - perhaps someone young and enthusiastic is willing to have a go at fitting EDIS to a Series lump, it should be a fairly cheap & easy way to go although if it is an unmolested unregistered classic you may not want to do much more than restore it and enjoy it.

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welcome Max

Ignore the grumpy old gits as they have forgotten what its like to be a teenager

Your series will run quite happy on unleaded straight from the pump. I guess that you wont be doing that many miles so it will be a fair while before you need to do any work to the head.

You have options now or later which is repleace the head or the ness bits for an unleaded one. This will stop any issues later. Or you can run as is and address the problems when and if they occur. The cost is the same you either spend it now or save up and do it later when its needed.

Which ever option you take enjoy the landrover and the 4x4 scene.

and dont listen to fridge he will persuade you to put big v8's in with megasuquirt and portal axles.

Paul

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Max- i'm jealous, i didn't get my first landrover until i was 16 or 17!

I'd run on unleaded and start saving for a new head. I have run my series 2 on unleaaded for years now with no issues even though it was my daily drive for about 5 years! As long as you aren't doing massive motorway miles or anything involving sustained high revs all the time you should be fine.

Have fun, i knew nothing aboout cars when i started and now nothing scares me (except diesels :ph34r: hehe)

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i was 14 when i bought mine :D had slightly more than basic knowledge by then though, after helping dad rebuild his. I've single handedly (other than the heavy lifting of chassis) rebuilt it and gone for all the off road goodies, stopping at the point where insurance costs would rise. Don't worry, you'll soon learn the basics and beware, every time you mend or fix something you'll find 4 other jobs that need doing. As regards to petrol and additives, i wouldnt worry about it, they were designed to run on the cheapest rubbish you could put in it and they're sturdy old engines, ive thought about an unleaded head, but its better for me to run it until it needs a new head and then worry about replacing it with unleaded, that way i dont end up with a decent but worthless spare cylinder head :P

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I wouldn't worry at the moment. Land Rover engines seem to tolerate unleaded well despite have no valve seat inserts as standard. In any event the thing must have been running on unleaded for about 15 or more years now and even so called Lead Replacement Petrol disappeared about 10 years ago.

What happens is that the valve seats erode gradually and eventually the valve ceases to seal properly. It then get overheated and eventually the valve head will burn making things worse. When this happens the compression drops and either the engine will get even more feeble than usual or one cylinder will misfire - especially noticeable at idle. Starting generally becomes poor.

Engines with alloy heads have always had inserted valve seats as have some iron ones. Series 1 and 6 cylinder LR engines have inserted exhaust valve seats and the 6 cylinder has inserted inlets as the head is alloy.

Unfortunately the inserts were made of the wrong material and stainless steel was found to be best for unleaded fuel and is often used for seats and valves. Special precautions for inlet valves are often thought unnecessary.

Interesting article on the subject here:

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/unlead01.htm

For re-assurance search this and other LR sites and see how many people have burnt out their valves due to the use of unleaded.

Keep the rocker clearances at the correct setting as they tend to close up as the valve seats tend to sink and close the clearance as the seats erode. Fitting insrts and new valves (ie unleaded conversion) will be the same job if the valves are OK or have failed. (Head could be damaged if driven for a long way with a burnt valve - meaning several thousand miles at high engine output - ie down motorways at 70)

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