aerocorey Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 My front end starts shaking at around 70 kph. In the Jeep world we call that the "Death Wobble". Whatever it's called in the LR world, I need to get a handle on it. Stock springs, stock size tires. Tires are balanced, lug nuts are tight. I plan to replace all 4 shocks and the steering dampener. You fellas think that will do the trick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangemach5 Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 My front end starts shaking at around 70 kph. In the Jeep world we call that the "Death Wobble". Whatever it's called in the LR world, I need to get a handle on it. Stock springs, stock size tires. Tires are balanced, lug nuts are tight. I plan to replace all 4 shocks and the steering dampener. You fellas think that will do the trick? Check the preload on the steering swivels (fixed the problem in my case!) and check the panhard rod bushes carefully, if in any doubt just change them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 Having had and seen this The swivel preload was as orangemach5 suggests the issue. set is properly though, remove swivel seal and follow the manual properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roybatty666 Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 I had this on my range rover and it was slack in my steering box which was easily adjusted. On my Defender I had it and it was partially due to really warn radius arm and panhard bushes, I replaced these which cured it, then swapped the front axle ends to go to 24 spline and the second hand swivel pins were a touch warn so I regained the wobble and keep meaning to do my swivel shims to sort it out. From my experience i find the following apply A true steering shake at speed is normal swivel preloads A shake but with wandering steering (constant correction on straight roads etc) is normally steering box play A shake but with wandering steering (constant correction on straight roads etc) and corner clonking or correction of steering when you come off the throttle is normally radius / panhard rod bushes The steering damper does nothing other than mask problems it will not cause a problem, if correctly set up a car shouldn't even need one imho With all the steering and suspension elements any one or combination of elements can give you the shakes so it is best to try and eliminate the easiest things first otherwise you end up replacing everything and it ends up being the last thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sas pinkie Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 Ok, well I have got steering wobble at 50mph, but above and below this speed it is fine, when the wheels start to shake, I accelerate through it and all is well. It doesnt wonder the road. Any ideas on this one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 panhard rod bushes &/or swivel preload, my 110 did a similar wobble on some rough tarmac, swapped the panhard rod bushes & reset the preloads & it's stopped the wobble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Ok, well I have got steering wobble at 50mph, but above and below this speed it is fine, when the wheels start to shake, I accelerate through it and all is well. It doesnt wonder the road. Any ideas on this one? Speed related wobble wheel balance first stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 I will act immediately on preload (Swivel bearing kit around 9.90 quid) Mine wobbled for months and I started by buying very expensive tyres. That did not work and then changed steering dampers.( I simply wished someone will tell me what it was instead of beating many months around the bush) When I changed the jammed swivel bearings life is much easier now!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petes Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Check the panhard rod bushes aswell. I had a shake on mine, that it would drive through. Checked wheel balance - all good Reset swivel preloads. - improved it - seemed to go. Came back with a vengance after a day off roading in the hills of QLD. So bad it couldnt be driven through it. Ended up changing the radius arm bushes, Panhard rod bushes, and drop arm ball joint. 95% confident majority of issue was casued by panhard rod, as I tested it after changing each item. Cheers Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellow Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Second on the panhard bushes... Easy fix as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Second on the panhard bushes... Easy fix as well... Beg to differ Sir... 3 hours in the lashing rain on Saturday trying to remove the bolt that had seized solid inside the bush sleeve. In the end had to cut the bolt on either side of the rod to lift it out. Then managed to mangle the new bush while hammering it it. Have dropped it off at the garage to get them to push the bushes in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sas pinkie Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Ok, so just to check, the pan hard rod is the one that goes between the axle and the chassis? And I have completely rebuilt a 110 from the ground up....lol..... scary isnt it....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Ok, so just to check, the pan hard rod is the one that goes between the axle and the chassis? And I have completely rebuilt a 110 from the ground up....lol..... scary isnt it....... Yep & sits in front of the front axle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerocorey Posted December 16, 2008 Author Share Posted December 16, 2008 Thanks for all the replies. All of the tie rod/steering/panhard rod ends are around a year old. PO started to work on this wobble before I bought the truck. I'll check the swivel preloads this weekend. I have also been planning to adjust some slack out of the steering box. I'll post up when it's fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCJ Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 Turned out to be the UJs on the front prop when mine started doing similar things.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patch1 Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 Whats the swivel pre load value. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 Whats the swivel pre load value. Depends on the model / year of Land Rover. Best to refer to the Workshop Manual relevant to your car. That is, if you want to double check on the figures given in the extract that's attached in post 3. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calle-fas Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 I have the same problem on my Td5 110 -00 with ABS/TC. I first encountered the wobble on the way home from a terrific day of offroading. Before fixing the problem I, stupidously, mounted a 2" lift kit. No castor corrected radius arm though. I have gone through the following steps: 1. Change of tires. I both tried mine on another 110 without vibrations/wobble, and tried the tires from that car on mine. 2. Change of upper and lower swivel bearings, and upper pin. Preload set to about 1.5kg with seals off. 3. Change of bushes. Panhard, radius arms, trailing arms and A-frame. 4. Change of drop arm ball joint. The other ones are quite newly changed and no play in them. 5. Change of steering damper. I have also checked the wheel bearings for play, and when standing still there is no play in the steering. A-frame ball joint is good. As mentioned in other threads the steering is very light at speed. But as I understand this can be due to both incorrect castor angle or damaged PAS box. From what I can see now the next step would be to temporarily change back to the old front springs to get rid of the incorrect castor angle. If that doesn't help I guess it's down to the PAS box. Or am I missing something here? As for the preload. Rave told me between 1.16 and 1.46kg. But that's in the 300 Tdi section. I can't find anything in the Td5 section. Any help is truly appreciated. /Calle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_s Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 have you had the tracking checked? made a huge difference to mine when i fitted new steering bars so i could actually adjust them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calle-fas Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Well I have not. I had that done a while ago and from what I can see nothing has changed. The rods are straight and all. I have tried adjusting it tho, putting a bit of nail polish on the threads to get back where i started. But that's the cheapest place to start I will go and have that checked next week. B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calle-fas Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 I vented my tires today from 2,5 kg to 1 kg. The wobble disappeared. At least up to 90 kph. Guess I'll just have to try with the old springs to see if castor correction is needed. Else I'll just have to go and get tracking checked. If I need to do castor correction, should i redrill my swivels or are there modified ones available at a reasonable price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calle-fas Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 It seems I finally solved my problem. I did, as mentioned above, adjust the swivel preload to what RAVE said (1.16-1.46 kg). But searching around here i found figures that differed quite a lot. 3,6-4,5 and 7,2 kg. So I just removed a couple of shims. Had no extra one-shot so I didn't want to remove the seal to measure. Wobbling disappeared. I could feel a little, but that could be due to the panhard bushes being ripped apart by the previous wobbles. Super Pros on the way. I love this place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 presumably the preload needs set to put the correct loading on the bearings... Randomly removing some shims will mean the bearing might be under too much preload, and will likely fail pretty quickly if thats the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SacredDog Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 My front end starts shaking at around 70 kph. In the Jeep world we call that the "Death Wobble". Whatever it's called in the LR world, I need to get a handle on it. Stock springs, stock size tires. Tires are balanced, lug nuts are tight. I plan to replace all 4 shocks and the steering dampener. You fellas think that will do the trick? In my case it was a combination of Steering Damper (only working well in one direction), Panhard Rod bushes and Steering UJ's. I changed them in that order, it became drivable above 40mph after changing the Steering Damper, then almost perfect after the bushes the the steering UJ's finally did the trick. I think in my case each one on it's own wasn't too bad but put them all together and it was lethal. The first time I tried to drive through it & the Steering Wheel was wrenched out of my hands . and I had to come to a complete stop before it stopped. Colin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Have just cured mine. Unfortunately it came down to a worn steering box which has now been changed! In the straight ahead there was no apparent play in the box but if I set the steering a few degrees to the side and wiggled the wheel there was a dead spot where there was no movement in the drop arm for quite a bit of steering input. Being the most expensive part of the system I am guessing this is usually the last bit to be changed, especially if, like mine, it appears to be OK when tried in the straight ahead position. Might be worth a check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.