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Greasing wheel bearings


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I take the off the stub every 6,000 miles or six months and repack then with grease.....Old habits die hard........

Why change a good bearing for the sake of changing....My bearings are the same ones that the truck came with whenh I bought it six years ago and 80,000 miles of gentle use.

mike

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Take the hub off, remove the hub seal and remove the bearings. Clean off the racks and look for discolouration/rust stains/pitting. If the tracks are ok, then the bearings will be too. You can clean the old grease off with petrol or similar, re-pack with grease, fit a new seal, and put it back together.

Les.

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Replaced my cv tonight plus bearings and seals with new gaskets. When re-fitting the drive flange

I put a smear of grease on the gasket. In the Haynes book it says clean and dry.

Have I done anything wrong ?

Cheers, Jon

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put a smear of grease on the gasket. In the Haynes book it says clean and dry.

Have I done anything wrong ?

No, It'll be fine. I use grease to hold gaskets in position while I do the lot up; never caused any leaks.

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No, It'll be fine. I use grease to hold gaskets in position while I do the lot up; never caused any leaks.

That is the correct way to fit paper / card gaskets. Easy to remove when changing things, no scraping to do, the gasket should just pull off.

mike

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I do what Les suggested, take them appart every 20k, clean them, inspect for damage then put back together with fresh grease and a new seal... have had 60k out of them so far, (truck now done 158k) but i've no idea how long they had been on there when I bought it.

Genuine (made by Cortico) seals are only a couple of quid each on Ebay, so you can do all 4 corners for less than £15 including grease...

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I have often wondered about drilling, tapping and fitting a grease nipple to hubs so that grease can be injected into the centre and migrate to the bearings. Anyone ever done this?

AD90

You mean like this? -

post-13593-1242228294_thumb.jpg

I thought this myself a while ago

Reasoning was to pack as much grease into the hub as possible thereby leaving no room for mud - never got around to fitting them yet though.

Still, silly season coming up and now the weather's better it's time to crack on and get some maintenance done - including fitting my modified flanges.

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A bearing will only go if...

- It is setup wrong.

- Dirt gets in there due to a bad seal.

There is no reason to grease them regularly. My suggestion is to remove all internal seals and let the bearing run in oil while running quality seals (RTC3511). If the hub seal is bad, you will see oil leaking out BEFORE you go wading and you can replace it before the bearings are damaged.

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Just finished off tonight by putting the caliper back on and wheel.

There was some one shot grease left in the swivel housing before

I fitted it all back together, but I bought some new one shot grease

to fill up.

My question...How on earth do you get the grease in the filler plug

with those plastic tubes when the swivel is so close to the housing ?

I did manage to squeeze the tube into the filler plug hole between

the swivel and casing, but only managed to get about a 1/3rd of

a pack in before it started to squeeze out the plug hole.

Any trick to it ?

Cheers, Jon

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The grease is runny enough as it is. The problem is that the cv joint is in the way of the grease going in there easily. If you turn the steering on full lock, then the filler hole clears the cv and the grease will go in there easier. Remove one of the top swivel pin bolts to allow air out as the grease goes in.

Les.

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