chrisoleary Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 I'm going to re-start work on my 110 as I've not spent much(any) time on it through winter. While poking around I've noticed that the rear x member also needs replacing, it looks like it's only the rear end that is rusty. Will I need one of those x members with extensions or not? Who's x members are best? I've got it in the garage at the moment with the bulkhead and seatbox out and the nearside outrigger cut off so not a lot more work to get the tub off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Fitting a rear crossmember with extensions (not a 1/4 chassis), is far easier and a lot less work. As the crossmember overlaps the chassis rails - you may find that the chassis ends are in fact corroded. I've fitted rear crossmembers from various suppliers. Britpart are or were appallingly bad quality, Bearmach are quite good, genuine are perfect. Richards chassis are now supplying rear crossmembers, and my experience with them has been very good. Depends on your budget really, as the better the quality - the higher the price. The best of all is to make your own - materials only costing about £30, but then you obviously need welding/fabrication skills. If you intend to keep your truck for the foreseeable future, then it might be wise to modify it to prevent future problems. Blanking off the back of it, removing unnecessary holes, waxoyl, etc, etc. There are a few threads in the Tech archive on crossmember replacement - including alterations to them. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_mcp Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Thanks Les, I also need to fit a new rear crossmember so this info is useful. I just called Land Rover and apparently they don't supply replcament corssmembers with extensions so I'll probably go with bearmach if they're better than those available at paddocks (probably britpart), it was only and extra ~£60 Cheers, mr_mcp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 My rear cross-member is starting to rust away and have had to have a bit welded recently to get it though the mot. Is it advisable to have the old one ground off and a new one fitted or is it best to keep repairing the old one with welding for as long as possible? Sorry for hi-jacking the thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 The pictures Les has put up could be off my landy once i cut the rotten parts of the crossmember off (except mine is green!). The rot is in exactly the same place on the right side chassis rail. I trimmed mine back as in those pics, repaired the rot and then slid a new C section crossmember on top and into slots in the chassis rails and welded it in place. Looks a treat and there is nowhere for mud to get trapped and rot like on the old crossmember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Rather than improve an available crossmember, I decided to build my own. I'm pretty happy with the result, and it won't rot away, that's for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Me too - I used 5mm plate http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25962&st=0&p=260507&hl=making%20a%20rear%20crossmember&fromsearch=1entry260507 Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Me too, I used 5mm box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisoleary Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 Thanks fellas, I like the look of those home made ones - wish i could weld . I think I'll take a welding buddy out for a drink . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Me Too! I made my own also incorporating mounting holes for a rear winch. It has quick release mudflaps and.....fog lights! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKMobile Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 I fitted one of these when i done mine. old one of and new one one in about 2 & 1/2 hrs http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p2219c43/0/d44-lowline-rear-cross-member-with-winch-mount.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyLee Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Me Too! I made my own also incorporating mounting holes for a rear winch. It has quick release mudflaps and.....fog lights! Steve I like the recessed fogs , class touch , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisoleary Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 Does anyone have detailed measurements or drawings for making your own. A friend has offered to make one for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 Easiest and most accurate thing for your vehicle will be to measure the one currently on it. No landy is exactly the same as the next, so the best thing to tailor make it to yours is to measure yours! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 I had a good idea of what I wanted to achieve with my new crossmember. So i did lots of measuring and measuring......and measuring and got all the parts cut and machined. Then I was ready to cut the old one off, make the chassis ends good and then mock up and build the new one around the chassis ends. As I was building it around the chassis ends there was a certain amount of fine tuning to make it all fit nicely and so a bit of grinding and filing and it was all done. It took longer than anticipated though!!! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisoleary Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share Posted March 16, 2010 Is the fuel tank on a 110 attached in any way to the rear x member? There are 2 small bolts at the rear which might just be holding the protection in place but they are real close to the x member if not through it. I'm just looking at what the complications will be if I have one made fron 6" x 3" box section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lomenech Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Hello, I would like to think I have some useful advice to offer as I am about to replace my X member on a 110. However I think I am hijacking the topic! I have ordered one with extensions, as I understand that you have to cut away some of the rear chassis ends when replacing the X member. However mine is costing £230 + 1-2 days fitting in the garage, and it's not a LR part either! Someone did say that you need to remove the fuel tank when doing the work, but I am not sure about this either. I hope you gets yours sorted out...Olivia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lomenech Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Sorry I am hijacking again but I would love to know the supplier you are getting your Bearmach one from, and how the Bearmach compares with other market parts as I have been quoted 230 for a new X member (can't remember the make!)from the local (& cheapest) supplier! Thanks, Olivia Thanks Les, I also need to fit a new rear crossmember so this info is useful. I just called Land Rover and apparently they don't supply replcament corssmembers with extensions so I'll probably go with bearmach if they're better than those available at paddocks (probably britpart), it was only and extra ~£60 Cheers, mr_mcp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 MIB Components ones looks quite good. There was a write up on them in one of the comics recently. Supposedly rather well made. I have no experience of this though, neither do I know anyone who has. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Is the fuel tank on a 110 attached in any way to the rear x member? Yup, you'd need to remove it anyway to improve access, buy a new set of mounts for it as well as you're unlikely to take them alive if your xmember is rusty Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfinder Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Hi, the tank is attached to the rear crossmember by two bolts which are captivated, I have just replaced my rear crossmember and the tank fixings where disintigrated along with sections of the crossmember so I attached two m8 bolts to the new crossmember before fitting, however my old tank was corroded and thin in places where small holes had appeared so I replaced the tank which came with a fitting kit! see the pic for exploded views of fittings etc by the way I did a lot of research into getting the right crossmember and wanted a good quality one that will fit, I settled on the one in the following link which is perfect and fits just like the original no alterations whatso ever where needed, it was not the cheapest but I found you get what you pay for! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/110-DEFENDER-REAR-CROSSMEMBER-WITH-EXTENSIONS_W0QQitemZ370122527075QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item562d059163#ht_1534wt_941 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lomenech Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 probably not much use but seeing as I am NOT making my own X member I phoned around for prices. The Bearmach one with extensions is in fact £160+VAT, the one I was originally quoted for was a 'Hadrian' and priced at 230+VAT. I have now chosen one which is meant to be a genuine part - whatever that is, as someone said LR don;t make them anymore!? Olivia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisoleary Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 Thanks Mike/Pathfinder, I'll have to wait to get a look at them to see how it could be attached to a home made one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 I just cut the old crossmember off carefully leaving the section between the chassis rails that the tank bolts to. You'll see what i mean when you start to cut. Mine was not too rusty, so this was ok to do. I then slid the new folded section on top and welded it on. Took a bit of fiddling, but not a bad finish in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 probably not much use but seeing as I am NOT making my own X member I phoned around for prices. The Bearmach one with extensions is in fact £160+VAT, the one I was originally quoted for was a 'Hadrian' and priced at 230+VAT. I have now chosen one which is meant to be a genuine part - whatever that is, as someone said LR don;t make them anymore!? Olivia If it's any use I have spare MPS one (supposedly made on SPI tooling) which I no longer expect to use (its had a new chassis so I'm not expecting to need it in my lifetime). Not the easiest thing to post, but if you want to collect, it's yours for £120 from near Bolton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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