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Strong / Bullet Proof AutoBox to mate to V8 & LT230 ?


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I don't get why the collective wisdom of the forum is not for the 4hp22 or 24 or 5hp24?

Looking on Wiki all of these transmissions were behind some high HP and Torque german barges, a 750il is going to give a fair bit of twist I would have thought.

Are the Audi suffix stronger?

Can the RR bellhousing allow an easy fit for the 5hp24?

Will the compushift power the electronics?

I KNOW that Nige's engines are strange and mythical beasts, but how much twist is realistic? More than 400 HP and 500NM?

That's the amount these transmissions have been behind. In heavy cars too?

I don't know that there is anything better in Europe.

I agree that the stateside stuff is proven strong, but I dunno, maybe I prefer the scapyard/cheaper/repleaceable solution?

Isn't Lara running the ZF behind his tuned TD5, maybe ask him?

And I should say the killer in our sport has to be heat in the fluid. Can you fit in another rad? Because that's probably what it needs. We don't generate the air flow so that's more surface area or F offlarge Fans or both.

My 2p

RR

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Could we keep all ref to Disease-ls out of this thread please :P

Serioulsy - a Tweaked TD5 does produce much torque, but wildy differently to say a Big Diesel

at low rpm mainshaft twsiting stuff or a tweaked TD5 vs "Thing" I'm daft enough to be building

Just googled TH350, it was fitted to buicks, now that makes me wonder - Rover V8s were Buick based, that would be just to

yummy to have it fit, doubt it will ?

Anyone ?

If not who does adapters ?

:lol:

Nige

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Nige, this is a tough call. There are only two auto boxes that will bolt up to a RV8 without an adaptor: the torqueflight and the ZF4 HP 22/24. The torqueflight is known to be strong when built properly but the Land Rover spec box isn't great. To buy a decent box is going to cost a few pounds! Now I've been through the ZF 4 thing - the gearbox in my old car was a HP 22 / 24 hybrid built by Ashcrofts. IIRC the HP 22 is safe to 280 lb/ft and the HP 24 is surpossed to be good for 360 lb/ft. Therefore neither are ideal. The HP 24 may last if it has a really big cooler and you aren't too silly with it. There are a couple of plus point as this option isn't too expensive - the gearbox build is about £1200 - it is reasonably compact and everything bolts up.

The next options are then GM boxes like the TH400. Personally I would avoid the TH350, 700R4 and 4L60e as they aren't that strong and, if you decide to go to all this effort, you might as well get something really strong. My vote would be the 4L80 with tweeks and a manual body conversion. Very strong but not cheap - with adapters you'll be looking at Rakeway prices....

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tried and tested route for corvette LSx engines is the 4L80e with compushift - like DaveW off here has in his red 100".

Thats survived the oz outback challenge and various UK challenge events and delivers the same sort of power you're expecting from your engine. Might be worth having a chat with Dave and see what he recommends/costs.

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Hi,

Nige, remember that it is Torque that kills things not HP, The gears only feel Torque, nothing else!! many torque related engineering problems have been overcome by increasing the engine output speed into the transmission and then lowering it again afterward to reduce the torque loads inside the transmission, but maintaining it at the desired point! It's even been done in F1 so they could use a smaller lighter box with little gears etc

ZF Boxes.

The ZFHP24 is a lot stronger than the 22 from the start,

The 22 and the 24 are non electronic, the 22e and 24e are electronic.

The earliest HP24 that was fitted to the 4.6 RR in it's first year of manufacture is the strongest start point and has a much bigger 12" Torque Converter and much larger input shaft.

The HP24 has a much larger oil pump and is a far better start than a 22, even a hybrid 22.

If you want the best and strongest, get an HP24 or HP24e from the 4.6RR with the 12" TC

Have it fitted with HD clutch packs, Heavy duty planet cages and gears, HD Sprag, and all the trimmings. Have the pump pressure at it's max and gears set to shift "hard" (ie no slip) Then use only RedLine "RACING" Trans fluid, not the normal stuff.

I had one hell of a time with gearboxes initially and got through over one a month!

I have 260bhp @ 4000 and 590nm / 440ftlb torque @ 1800 and all in a 2.5 Ton vehicle with big grippy tyres, so enough torque to rip most boxes apart, to date this box has been fault free for 100,000km minus the first 6 months of going nowhere and blowing other boxes constantly so say - 3000km so 93,000km of reliability, but well maintained and oil changed etc which is obvious!

Good luck with the project!

Lara

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There is/was a company in the US doing adaptors for the V8 and TH gearboxes. They catered to the Morgan and MG crowds in the US but would do LR stuff as well. I wrote a feature for one of the mags on a guy in the US who had used this same outfit to kit out his rockcrawler D90 that had a TH box and Atlas T case. I will dig my notes out.

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I can foresee Ashcroft, KAM, and all the other aftermarket drive-train parts suppliers introducing a 'Nige Clause' into their warranties:

"Warranty claims where breakage has been brought about by "hoog V8's m8" with a billion horsepower will NOT be entertained...but we will snigger"

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I can foresee Ashcroft, KAM, and all the other aftermarket drive-train parts suppliers introducing a 'Nige Clause' into their warranties:

"Warranty claims where breakage has been brought about by "hoog V8's m8" with a billion horsepower will NOT be entertained...but we will snigger"

Prob not KAM as I i iz in charge of warranty claims :rofl::P MD Knows I have a Naturally Gasping diseasel :D

Nige

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