Jump to content

Crash Course on Spraying?


Recommended Posts

Right, have got a decent compressor now, and should be able to use coalescing filters to minimize water/oil contamination. But need some pointers, where to start when it comes to spraying..........So if anyone has any good links or just good advice???


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paint spraying is easy. Very easy!

Getting a good finish is a different story. Especially in your garage where you cannot use fancy 2 pack paint.

My experience is that if you want a the finish to look acceptable preparation is the key. Very tempting to spend a morning rubbing down then start spraying.

Spend a long time and a lot of money getting the bodywork perfect. A Landrover will take several days.

Don't take any short cuts, you will need tack rags, filler, stopper, loads of masking tape, rust treatment, at least 2 coats of primer, spray filler etc etc.

I deliberately don't buy the top coat until I am ready - stops temptation.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

suction fed guns also need more room for intricate areas as they have the canistor on top of the gun, where as a suction fed gun is all belw the nozzle, devilbiss guns are on of the best try eblag for something on there.

one other thing to notice for the preparation is make sure what you are painting is compatable with your new paint, if in doubt use a barcoat isolater before you start and when you get your paint get it from same place and check all is ok - you dont wnt no blistering!

you are able to spray two pack at home just wear a proper mask not a paper dust thingy!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spraying is simple :

If when you spray the paint runs, your putting too much on too slowly

If the finish is rough, or orange peely then your not putting enough paint on and going to fast

Seriously if you know someone who does it for a living pay for some lessons......worth every penny

HTH (which it prob won't)


Link to comment
Share on other sites

What type of Gun is advisable? I notice the gravity fed type are used more than any?

I use HVLP - less overspray, less noise, and easy for a first timer.

For the price of a semi decent gun - like a DeVilbliss - you can buy a basic twin turbine HVLP unit



Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought a relatively cheap compressor etc from machine Mart, along with air hose extension, fittings, two guns. I only have experience with Cellulose paint - twin pack is excellent, but the fumes are lethal, so specialist breathing gear will also be needed. Dilution is 40-50% thinners (depending on temp), and 45-60psi depending on spray pattern etc.

Landmann is right - prep is everything. If you are spraying a panel that already has a layer of paint on it, then there would be many layers - etch prime, a couple of layers of hi-build primer, then as many as 5 top coats - 2 of which are likely to be polished back off again once the paint has cured.

Example of a new wing:-

It came with a yellow coating that I was told is etch prime, buut in fact it's just a layer of anti-oxidant.

As it comes - anti-oxidant has runs in it, so a light sanding with 100 wet dry everywhere to flatten out and to provide a key for good adhesion.


One coat of etch primer (don't rub it down - if you go through it to bare metal, you need to re-coat with etch prime again)

Then two coats of grey hi-build primer. A handy tip if you are painting something that's an awkward shape and want to make sure you put the required number of coats on is to use two different colours of primer (grey and red) that way, any misses will be evident.


Once dry (most primers dry very fast), check and flatten out with 1000 or 1200 wet/dry paper using water with a small amount of washing-up liquid in. Rinse with fresh water and once dry, several layers of top coat, allowing sufficient time between to let the last coat dry.


I then left the panels to dry overnight and assembled the two parts that make the wing.

A small amount of T-cut to flatten out the paint, then polish. If you have done it right, then you can get get a surprisingly good finish.





Les. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alternatively, spray it with hammerite and touch it up easily when you roll it or slide it into a tree or whatever. I used 2 pac first time round, great for road only cars but useless if you have to touch up the paint regularly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will be repainting my 90 over the winter and i am seriously tempted to do it with hammerite like Alans.He got a suprisingly good finish on his car and its hard wearing :D ,a must for a winch challenge motor ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tin of NATO green and roller........

Alternately a 6" brush if your bodywork is like Tonk's!

i used to use a roller but it doesn't get into the dents anymore, so brush it is, atleast i dont paint it pink!!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy