katluke Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Found the time today to start on the rear crossmember.I first removed the plastic trim on the bottom door which then enabled me to remove the door seal.I got underneath to take the bumper off and surprise surprise the heads on both bolts that hold the bumper on were both corroded and I couldnt get a socket to fit.I looked at removing the light fittings but these were also a bit worse for wear and so I didnt want to disturb them.I decided to cut two squares out of the bumper and then drill the captive nut off on both of them,which worked fine.I will weld them back in later. I had noticed when I removed the interior that the rear floor panel looked like it was curved rather than flat.Sure enough when I removed the bumper all was revealed.The rear mounts had both collapsed and the rear crossmember was sitting on the chassis and on top of the fuel tank (wonder how many others are like this).So I took a measurement out of curiosity. Here is the new part which I also took a measurement from for comparison.There was 20mm difference between the old and the new. Sorry I seem to have deleted a few photos from when I put the new cills in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katluke Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 I started by drilling out the spot welds that I could see.First the passenger side. Then the drivers side. I then decided to remove the middle section betweeen the door pillars to free the sections under each pillar. Passenger side. Drivers side. I had noticed when stripping the rear crossmember that both the drain holes on both sides had been sealed up from new with body sealer.Here is a photo,the screwdriver is pointing at the drain. When removing the middle section I could see the extent of the rot above both rear mounts.No wonder they had collapsed. Passenger side. Drivers side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Have you rearranged your Photobucket site? Most of your pics have disappeared..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katluke Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 Heres how I supported the body(I made good use of the holes in the floor lol) I should have posted these photos earlier.I cut the bottom of the body mount bolts off so when I jacked the chassis up it would also lift the body up so I could prop it up,then when I lowered the chassis it would seperate the body from the chassis when it was lowered back down to its normal height.This left me enough height to remove the old crossmember and also enough room to slide the new one in.Here is a photo of how i propped it up. And another. I then started on the passenger side removing the rest of the old section. And here it is all removed. Same for the drivers side. And removed. I was then able to bolt the new crossmember in place. And another shot. I will tack it in place once it is lowered into its correct position,ready for it to be welded up at the weekend.Then the next job is to replace the floor panel and supports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katluke Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 Have you rearranged your Photobucket site? Most of your pics have disappeared..... Im new to posting Photos,and unfortunately I deleted them from my album.I will have to see one of the mods and put them back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mahon257 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Looks like you're having fun... Brings back a few memories for me this....from last summer! If you need any help - be happy to answer any questions... but it looks like you've got it all under control! Nice work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Looking good... I have a question for any other guys that might have used box section as im leaning towards wanting to use this... How do you cope with the clearance above the chassis?...do you have to mod the box - on the genuine part you can see it is shaped to allow for the chassis below it?.. Is there any milage in strengthening the body mounts on the cross member whilst off the car if using the genuine part?....they look flimsy to me TBH... Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katluke Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 Before I continue on with fitting the rear crossmember I will re post how I fitted the cills as I accidentally deleted them off here.Basically the cills on both sides of the vehicle were non existant.Rather than fit the original type cills I decided to fit heavier box section.Here is a pic of the parts to go in. This is what I started with. First thing I done was unbolt the front seatbelts then drill out the spotwelds holding the frames in place. As I had decided to fit box section rather than the original type cills I needed to completely remove both the inner and outer cills from my vehicle.To do this I removed a 90mm strip from the front of the floor all the way to the rear. As both of the pillar boots were completely shot I decided to use this piece of trim that holds the bottom of the door seal in place to enable me to position the ciil at the correct height and place. I then chopped a small piece of floor out above both body mounts so I could drill the heads of the bolts off as they were too badly corroded to get out any other way. Front. Rear. Once I had removed the heads I then bolted the new mounts into position. Front. Rear. This is the 100x60x3 box section that I am using.Its a lot stronger than the flimsy original cills.It is 1450 long with a 30mm back cut on the bottom at the rear (aesthetics) I then slid the box section underneath the vehicle and lifted it up between the new mounts and the door seal trim.I knew this would keep the cill at the correct height and in the right place.I then clamped it in position. I then tacked the cill in its position (my mate will be fully welding up all the parts)Here it is tacked to the door seal trim and front mount. And here it is tacked to the rear mount. Here is a pic from the inside of the cill tacked in place. The rear pillar boot will be fitted at the weekend but the front boot will not be fitted until I tackle the inner wings.The drivers side cill is also at the same stage as this one now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katluke Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 I continued work on the rear crossmember today.I jacked the chassis up so that the new crosssmember made contact with the bottom of the door pillars.I was then able to check the measurements I had taken and plug weld both door pillars in place. Passenger side. Drivers side. I then jacked it up a bit higher so I could remove the props and lower it down back onto its tyres. I then decided to assemble the rear floor panel and the other parts that go with it.I figured the easiest way to do it was just to tack the z strips to the panel,then turn it over and tack on the support bars. Top side. Bottom side. I also had to tack on a plate that holds the brake line in place (It can be seen in the above photo). I then measured the width across the back of the panel so I knew how wide I needed to cut out the old floor.I then cut the rear panel out and a couple of bits of suspect metal. When I removed the old floor panel the brake line was so badly corroded it just perished when I tried to remove it.Does anybody know the part number for this piece ? I now had very easy access to the fuel sedimenter. So I removed it to clean it. It was full of a jelly like substance and a lot of odd looking gunk in the bottom(I had expected this after seeing other posts regarding the sedimenter) I need to fabricate some repair panels next and also fix the broken brake parts when I find out the part numbers for them.I laid the new panel in just to check that my measurements were ok and the panel fit. Seems like im starting to make a bit of progress now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axlechorus Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 That looks very neat and should certainly be solid for a good few years to come! Which supplier are you using to get these parts from? For the brake pipes I would go down the road of getting a tool to swage the ends (About £40 from a motor factors) and the male and female connectors to start making your own. Should pay for itself after a few pipes and will allow you to do any future pipse just by buying the copper tubing that is cheap as. HTH Cheers Ryck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katluke Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 That looks very neat and should certainly be solid for a good few years to come! Which supplier are you using to get these parts from? For the brake pipes I would go down the road of getting a tool to swage the ends (About £40 from a motor factors) and the male and female connectors to start making your own. Should pay for itself after a few pipes and will allow you to do any future pipse just by buying the copper tubing that is cheap as. HTH Cheers Ryck The rear floor panel £50 Paddocks,z bars and rear floor supports £75 AL services (ebay),Box section £50 Steel2go (ebay),rear crossmember,4 pillar boots,2 inner cill supports,4 body mounts and 1.2mm steel panel £300 Yrm. hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katluke Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Got a bit more done today.It wasnt the best weather to be out in the garden welding,it was raining and windy.My mate fully welded the rear crossmember up for me,remembering to leave a gap were the drains are on both sides.(Both drains now work as they should have)Definetly a better job fully welded as oppposed to the original way which is tacked and stuck together with body seal.Here is a couple of photos. Passenger side. Drivers side. The next job on the rear crossmember was to weld in the end caps which fit on both sides(obviously). This is them. And here is a couple of photos of them welded in.They were plug welded and also welded on the edges.(As originally done) Passengers side. Drivers side. The cills on both sides were then fully welded up and the rear pillar boots fitted,also the part which fits on the inside of the cills were fitted. Passenger side. Drivers side. Inner cill piece (passenger side) Inner cill piece (drivers side) Then a couple of repair pieces were made and welded in on the rear floor. This one was a bit awkward to weld due to the body sealer in the join. Next job is to do a couple of more repair pieces on the arches then weld the rear floor panel in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevie D Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 How much rust is bad under / over the rear chassis mounts folks - I'm guessing any rust will weaken the x member? I'm just finishing the doot floor etc, have bought yrm replacement chassis mounts but am having to cut out more than I expected to get solid metal, so am having to put substantial plates in under the x member / over the mounts on one side :-(. Now debating if this will weaken it too much and or create a rust trap inside the section. The rest of the section is ok. How much extra of a job is it to replace the whole thing ? How good a fit is the yrm replacement? I've spent a reasonably small amount so far - all the boot floor panels were got off ebay as well as the sills. Don't really want to be ripping it all ouy again in a years time for the next mot lol. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 She'll be a keeper when finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Tatty old Disco's should be in the scrapyard Seriously though - some lovely work there chaps Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Oh I am soooooo glad that in Oz we dont use salt to defrost roads in winter and that this degree of rust is but a distant memory my 1998 Disco has none, oh, and due to overseas transit the chassis is galvanised and powdercoated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katluke Posted December 15, 2011 Author Share Posted December 15, 2011 This Disco has been finished for a while now,all road legal .Unfortunatley I deleted the photos off the camera by accident showing the rest of the work to complete it (gutted)The photos I deleted just mainly showed repair pieces made and welded back in where I had removed rot from the inner wings and above the rear of the cills etc. I bought a large sheet of aluminium to make repair pieces for either side of the body where I had to remove it to get at the old cills and my mate welded them on using the mig with the gas and wire changed (clever git).As I had to buy a large sheet there is some left over (foc)if anybody needs some to repair there vehicle. hth. I also renewed the discs/calipers on every corner and also this month had both swivel bearings, all universal joints, and a new prop fitted (old one bent). There is probably other stuff I have forgot to mention but happy now its all done and back in use. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katluke Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 Well the engine went bang on this last year (2014) and ended up taking it to Washington landrover who fitted a recon bottom end,turbo new water pump,clutch,head gasket, etc basically a full engine overhaul.Test ran out on it and It had been off the road for about the last 6 month but I renewed the vaccum pump and got it all road legal again , also had to do a repair/modification to the auxiliary bolt that had stripped but it's back in daily use again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katluke Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 This hasn't moved for months just been sat on the drive so it's free to a good home if anyone wants it. Tax ran out and 1 day of test left,it had 1000s spent on it while I've owned it and has some decent parts fitted. ST tyres HD suspension HD trailing arms Single box exhaust Recon engine and host of parts when Washington Landrover fixed it for me New clutch was fitted New water pump Head gasket Loads of other stuff like new cills,rear floor etc. FREE to good home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Oh nooooo, you've got so far and done so much!!!!! don't give up on her now!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 No don't give up.. just a short push now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katluke Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 It's just laid there lads not getting used,be ideal for green laning or plenty of bits on it for a project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Nooooooo!!!! Put a ticket on it and sell it if you really don't want it - but certainly don't give it away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 What he ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ said At least get something back on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Ticket her an put up on the sales boards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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