v8classic Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Hi I have just bought a 1984 rrc v8 which has been sat in some ones garden for the last 7 years. All the usual things have gone I.e. Rear cross member, rear floor, tailgate and so on. The engine was a runner but hasn't been started since 2003. What is the usual procedure to go through to get it started other than oil and filter changes. Will the engine start even if not everything is wired up? I have heard it won't. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can't wait to hear the rumble if I can get it working! Thanks will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 1984, is that carbs or EFI? Either way I would do the filters & swap the fuel. Some have trouble priming the oil pump after an oil change, people either pack the oil pump or take the dizzy out and turn the pump with a drill until pressure can be felt. If you have an oil pressure gauge you could just risk it and keep an eye on pressure, if it doesn't start to lift quickly then shut it off. Then I would crank it a few times with the plugs out to check there is nothing in the cylinders and everything is going round. If its on carbs by now you should be able to tell if the fuel is getting through or not, then all you should need electrically is a spark, if its EFI you need quite a bit more :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8classic Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 Yep it's on carbs twin su's I think. So fingers crossed it should be pretty straight forward. I'm pretty new to all this but have a fair understanding of engines. Just taught myself how to weld which was an interesting one but plenty of practice and it's seems straight forward enough. Thanks for the reply. Would you advise changing the gear box and axle oils? Cheers will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete The Biker Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Will the engine start even if not everything is wired up? Such as? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 As above, i'd drop the fuel and put some fresh in. Then I'd check oil level and ensure its at minimum, then remove plugs and perhaps squirt a small shot of oil into each bore. Check you can turn it over by hand on the pulley. If you can, then turn it over on the starter until you get pressure. Replace plugs, and fire it up - no revving! Alternatively, check here for a discussion on priming with a drill Priming A good way to check visually for pressure is to pull a rocker cover off and see if you have oil weeping from the rocker gear. Once the oil has burnt off from lubing the bores and if all is well, then i'd change the oil and filters and your done. Then change oil at regular intervals from then onward- 3000 miles is the interval I use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8classic Posted March 31, 2011 Author Share Posted March 31, 2011 The only things that I know aren't wired up are the rear lights but not too sure on everything else. Never done electrics on a car so I didn't know whether everything ran in one big circuit. Thanks for the replys. Everything I read on here is really help full. I'm glad there are people out there who know what they are doing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete The Biker Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 It's all separate circuits coming back to common earth points, so having the back lights disconnected won't affect anything else. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwgriffiths Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Would you advise changing the gear box and axle oils? If its anything like mine the clutch will be knackered, so don't bother changing those yet. You should have twin strombergs, not SUs, unless you've got an SD1 engine or SD1 inlet manifold? I friend of mine (A proper BL classic nut) recommended dropping the old engine oil out, filling it all the way up to the rockers with oil, before draining it back down to the correct maximum level. It seems like good advice, but I was impatient and didn't bother on mine After doing that and everything else in this thread so far: You've gotta see if she'll turn over . Drop a bit of oil in each of the bores to help lubricate them, and then try starting it. Its not a question of if it will start, it's a question of what is causing it not to start If it's not turning over at all first port of call is the battery, then the starter motor. Pull the starter out and connect it directly to the battery, if it spins up then it works and your problem is somewhere in the ignition circuit. Then it's out with the multimeter (a wiring diagram will be essential here, there are some available online I think). First check the ignition barrel in the steering column, is it receiving and sending the correct signals down the correct wires? Next is starter motor relay, which is a little silver box about 1" cubed located next to the washer bottle on the passenger side of the bulkhead. Is that sending and receiving the correct signal? If all 3 of those things work then it should turn over, unless there's a problem in the wires themselves. (Having a friend / sympathetic parent / significant other is really useful for this bit) If it now turns over but doesn't start it's time to check you're getting fuel and a spark. This is where you're lucky you've got carbs Disconnecting a fuel line after the fuel filter while cranking will tell you if it's sending fuel to the carbs, if not check the filter and fuel pump. (This is probably not the HSE approved method ) Then onto a spark. I went the (not hugely) expensive route and bought new HT leads, new coil, new condenser, new distributor cap (The piece of sprung loaded graphite on the top of mine had snapped off ) a new rotor and new spark plugs (The full list is in my thread) that lot came to about £60 I was in the same boat as you, check my thread to see the list of bits and bobs I had to change to get her to run. Best of luck and get some pictures up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 I'd change all the oils, might as well do it before you run anything as it will be very well drained. I'd prime theoil pump with a drill then crabnk it with the the plugs out untilt he oil light goes off, then connect the plugs up and try to ge it to fire. remmeber that if it's not firing the fuel will be stripping the cylinder walls of oil (bore washing) which leads to high wear, you need to get it started ASAP and preferably that day before the fuel can run past the rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8classic Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 Thanks for all ur replys all this info is great. Hopefully going to finish welding the chassis up tomorrow then gonna get it started. I will try get a few pics up nxt week let u see the old girl and see what you think. While I'm asking the questions I will carry on with I think 1 more for the moment. Is there any way of feeding fuel straight to the carbs without having to re fill all the fuel tank and plumb it back in? Cheers will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwgriffiths Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Is there any way of feeding fuel straight to the carbs without having to re fill all the fuel tank and plumb it back in? There isn't a sensible way I can think of, you could draw fuel from a jerry can into the pump rather than from the tank, but you're going to have to re-do the fuel lines at some point anyway so you may as well do it now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 There isn't a sensible way I can think of, you could draw fuel from a jerry can into the pump rather than from the tank, but you're going to have to re-do the fuel lines at some point anyway so you may as well do it now Since it's on carbs would it not be ok to gravity feed from a tank on the roof (as long as you are not moving it)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8classic Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 Sounds like a good idea three sheds. Hopefully it won't flood it. I will give it a try. Can't believe I'm stuck at work on a sunny day like today. I could be layed under a rusty old rangie! Haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willfromsussex Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 I have got loads of cars running that have been stood anywhere from 8 to 27 years. I love it. 27 year car (Datsun 100A) needed a tow to get the valves to seat and get some compression into the thing, then it started and ran as sweet as a nut! Something very satisfying about hearing something run that has been abandoned for years. Dug a 120Y out of a barn in Essex that had been there since '82. It actually started and ran (just) on the smelly old petrol that was in it. There aren't many cars that will do that. Cooling system had suffered a bit, waterpump had let water into its bearings etc, and it needed new heater hoses etc. But in no time I was blasting around the motorways in it, Devon etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fett Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 lol dont see many of them now will v8classic , is yours a 2 or 4 door? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8classic Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 It's a 4 door wish it was a 2 door I don't know y but they do appeal to me more! Still not got round to starting it! The rear end has taken longer than expected so much welding but I'm enjoying it so I think that's the main point! Haha. Will that's excellent story let's hope mine is straight forward too. It's my first real project so I'm trying to take my time and do things properly. Will have u finished restoring your classic yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willfromsussex Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Pretty much there with mine yes , its on the road, still some work to do on interior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8classic Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 I have took the distributor out today and tried priming the oil pump with a drill. When I did it at first I I went and turned the ignition on and the oil light had gone off then if I turned the ignition off again and back on the oil light would be bk on. Any ideas what's happening? The oil pressure obviously isn't staying. I have filled the filter half full of oil but I haven't put and Vaseline in the oil pump. Do I need to do that? Also the fuel tank isn't on so I have been using a jerry can for stand in but the fuel pump seems to be very noisy. It seems to be picking the fuel up though so imagine that's ok? While I have ur attention the starter motor on mine wasn't engaging so I have took it out and got a second hand one from a breakers yard but it's a different type to the one that's on mine. It's the m45 type rather than the 3m100pe. Will this still work? Any help would be much appreciated once again! Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Sounds like your oil pressure is fine TBH, it's normal for the oil pressure light to come on after you stop drilling, just like when you stall the engine. Though your description is a little vague, so not 100% sure what you were up to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8classic Posted October 28, 2011 Author Share Posted October 28, 2011 I'm back and unfortunately I still don't seem to be able to get it started. The oil pressure is fine and I am getting a spark from the coil and at the spark plugs. The engine turns fine and it coughs and splutters but won't fire. I have renewed the spark plugs so they are nice and fresh. Any ideas? What would be the next step? Anyone close to Sheffield that wouldn't mind having a look? Haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Have you got fuel at the carbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8classic Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Ye I have took the fuel lines off and the fuel is pumping through at the carbs. I'm gonna try pouring some fuel down the inlet of the carb today. I've got another full day of playing ahead of me. When I took the distributor off to prime the oil I was going to change the condenser but my distributor doesn't seem to have 1 in. Is that usual? Thanks for the reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Hi been reading with interest, as i've just brought home a RRC 3,5 V8 Carb, year 1983, that might suffer from same problems, although i suspect the complete wiring to be f..ked up, as all relays are missing , Well that's what you get buy an abandoned project..... Got it started yet ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 If you've had the dizzy off your timing is probably out. Have you set it so that the rotor is pointing at plug 1 lead when piston 1 is at the top after inlet valve 1 has opened and closed when turning the engine in its correct direction of rotation? Once you have done this you can fine tune the timing by rotating the dizzy, space can be pretty tight so you sometimes have to rotate the rotor one extra tooth to get the range you need. I would do all this by ear at this stage, I wouldn't bother trying to use a timing light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8classic Posted November 10, 2011 Author Share Posted November 10, 2011 Nope still not started. Yes i set the engine to top dead centre and had a look where the rotor arm was pointing and it certainly wasnt at plug 1 so i took it back out and re-aligned it. put it all back together and tried again and i had it coughing and spluttering but still not quite firing. How do i know when the inlet valve has opened and closed? I have got a full day on saturday working on it again so i think im going to have a play around with the timing. When the engine is at top dead centre should the rotor arm line up directly with plug one or should it be just before/after? As u have probably read i am a novice at this and trying to teach myself with the haynes manual and this website. Thanks for all your help. Also while i have ur attention how do i tell if my engine is an sd1? i have twin su's on it so im guessing it is. Cheers Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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