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where to get bolts.


Russell_ds80

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local bolt supplier.unless you want to pay for "special bolts" from someone who will rip you off by telling you they are made especially for the job,"BUL****T" springs to mind.

they'll only be M10 or M12 with nyloc's.

you could also make a spreader plate to mount on the inside of the crossmember to stop the bolts maybe pulling through.

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You could use M12 x 1.5 cap screws/bolts as they are 12.9 strength.

You have to remember that although 12.9 have a higher tensile strength, it comes at the cost of being more brittle. 8.8 are a good compromise of strength, elasticity and resistance to fatigue.

I've had situations where 12.9 bolts have snapped where 8.8 have held on, particularly when high shock loadings are applied.

Si

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You have to remember that although 12.9 have a higher tensile strength, it comes at the cost of being more brittle. 8.8 are a good compromise of strength, elasticity and resistance to fatigue.

I've had situations where 12.9 bolts have snapped where 8.8 have held on, particularly when high shock loadings are applied.

Si

Hooray! At last a statement from a position of knowledge! Thank you Si!!!

The number of times I have tried to get that point across only to be shouted down in favour of 12.9's by the "bigger is better" brigade. For a mostly tensile application like this 8.8 ( or perhaps 10.9 maybe..) is a much more appropriate choice.

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You have to remember that although 12.9 have a higher tensile strength, it comes at the cost of being more brittle. 8.8 are a good compromise of strength, elasticity and resistance to fatigue.

I've had situations where 12.9 bolts have snapped where 8.8 have held on, particularly when high shock loadings are applied.

Si

I never knew that.

Cheers, I'm going to re-spec some of the fasteners on my trike project.

What's the strength comparison with stainless A2, A4 and 8.8 steel bolts of the same size? I can't find any comparison data.

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For those who come to this thread looking for the answer to "where to get bolts", I have always found that Namrick have a good range and quick delivery. Sometimes a bit expensive though...

In terms of strength I don't know of any direct comparison between various grades of stainless and traditional HT bolts, but for an individual application it wouldn't be hard to get the information together (understanding it is another matter!). But I have always shied away from SS in 'heavy duty' situations, preferring as a general rule, to use 8.8 assembled with waterproof grease*. I would only use the stronger grades if some official source (LR Manual, the accessory manufacturer etc) required it

(Or if some particular people who post here said it's a good idea...;) )

Roger

* Waterproof grease (AKA "marine grease") is just that: A reasonable light-duty grease which will prevent corrosion. I was once told many years ago by somebody I trust (well I trust him in engineering terms - the person I'm not that keen on sacked me!) that most normal greases are not waterPROOF and will allow corrosion to occur beneath them, so in certain situations (chassis, running gear, some of the drive-train, body) I tend to use it on assembly rather than my once-time favourite, copper grease which, to be honest - I have never been too impressed with.

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Bolts and bolting is an entire engineering subsection in itself, that can take years to understand.

Like I said earlier a SS A4 only refers to the material. A4 80 would be equivalent to 8.8 steel

strength wise.

However you can get stronger SS bolts as well, even titanium if you want. You need to decide what spec

you want, there are manufacturers that that can supply them. All depends how deep your willing to put

your hand in your pocket.

Then there is torquing up a bolt. Do you know the spec of the torque? Not just NM, but wet or dry?

If wet which lubricant is specified. If you torque up a dry bolt using wet torque, it will probably snap.

Prestretch?

And so on, and so on.....

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I can only echo Q-rover and Si’s sentiments. As a Mechanical Engineer, we spend many hours at work producing calculation sheets for bolt loadings, pre-load, torque, etc to show suitability for the application.

I can have a dig around in the standards at lunchtime today for e.g. the tensile strength of 8.8 bolts compared to 10.9, A4-70 and A4-80…but as Si said that’s not the only factor. It’s worth noting though that you won’t get A4-80 bolts from a stainless supplier unless you ask, and even then they will be f-expensive. In fact they’re usually A2-70!

Best to stick to 8.8 from your local friendly engineering fastener place (GR Fasteners in Avonmouth in case anyone from Bristol is reading this). 10.9 if it makes you feel better…

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This is, to be honest, O level engineering. If any one does it any more as GCSE or something else. Theres a difference between "Strength" and "Toughness" and as has been said there are situations where the correct bolt (and nut) has properties of both and situations where only one is desirable. Usually they have attributes of both but various materials which are tough are not strong, plastic for example and cast iron.

Just for the ones who want a pretty picture....me included.

http://www-materials.eng.cam.ac.uk/mpsite/interactive_charts/strength-toughness/NS6Chart.html

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