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1970 S3 failed MOT no VIN on chassis


sussex-landy

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What a surprise my 1970 V8 beast was in for its MOT and within 10 minutes the tester came and told me I cant test it as there is no VIN stamped onto the chassis. I told him after 40 years and 9 keepers the chassis has been replaced and just about everything else as well as many coats of chassis paint or underseal. Its never failed or pretty been refused due to a lack of a VIN stamped on the chassis.

Any idea if this can be sorted with a replacement VIN plate from the online vensors for classics. My others series 3 plate has pretty much turned to dust over the years and I just put a galvanized chassis on that one.

Thanks

Robert

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That has crossed my mind and i might be investing in a punch set to fix it then punch it into the master brake servo as he epected to see one there like newer cars not exactly the chassis though. Where is the normal place on the bulkhead as my 1972 S3 has it inside the cab near the gearsticks.

thanks

robert

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Pretty sure that the VIN number only has to be displayed on vehicles first used after 01/08/1980 anyway, as per the link below:

http://www.motinfo.g...m4s06000303.htm

Specifically:

5. Check that the vehicle is permanently displaying a legible Vehicle Identification Number. This can be either
  • on a VIN plate secured to the vehicle, or
  • stamped or etched on the vehicle body or chassis.

So even if your Series III was required to show a VIN number (which it's not as it's a 1970), the VIN plate on the bulkhead and no number on the chassis is perfectly acceptable.

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As pointed out above only required from Aug 1980.

Go back and ask the tester to show you where in the testers manual it says you need a chassis no' on a 1970 vehicle.

Then ask for your money back and go to a garage that, 1. knows Land Rovers.. 2. employs testers that can read.

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I get quite a few classics tested over the course of a year and run into this with a lot of them thanks to lost plates. They need the VIN/Chassis number for the new computerised test (apparently), if you take along the V5 they should be happy to take the number off that.

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Thats what I hoped but they refused and said it needs to be on the chassis. To be fair they didnt charge me as they refused to test it.

I might try the replacement plate rivetted onto the normal place and tell them thats all I have and its pre 1980 so shouldnt need more and see what response I get.

thanks

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http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_630.htm

Says ...

A Vehicle Identification Number (VIN or chassis number) is required on all vehicles first used on or after 1 August 1980. except those which are

. kit cars

. amateur built vehicles

and

5. Check that the vehicle is permanently displaying a legible Vehicle Identification Number (this can either be

. on a VIN plate secured to the vehicle. or

. stamped or etched on the vehicle

body or chassis).

Seems clear cut

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My 88 comes under 5.a. the VIN plate is on the brake pedal assembly. My 109 has it on the bulkhead in front of the gearsticks, inside the cab. The 88 is from '83 and the 109 from '71. I did actually make a plate with the chassis number on and weld it to the chassis, the original having gone with the old dumbirons, my MOT man knows its there, but takes the number off the VIN plate on the brake pedal, which he has difficulty getting at.....

A friends 88 has it riveted to the drivers side of the seatbox, there's never ever been an issue with all three - you need to challenge them, or change to a better MOT station.

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A 1970 vehicle would be SIIA, not SIII. VIN plate positions were originally next to the transfer box instruction plate on the inside of the bulkhead, but was later moved to the engine bay side of the bulkhead near the plastic wiring grommet plate. The VIN plate was only ever attached to the brake pedal box on 90s, 110s and 1227/130s, not on Series LRs.

The rules are very clear that only one VIN point is needed, whether it's the chassis stamping or the plate - you don't need both, but both are better than one for theft protection.

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Its neve been a raqnge rover its always been a series with conversions and stuff done by each owner. I have added the V8 and previous owner did running gear onto disco axles and spings. I will go with the plate near the gear sticks and challenge anything else after that,

Is 1970 a IIA or bordeline Series 3, I have a 1972 which states series 3 on the logbook.

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I have one my other vehicle is an almost showroom condition (after restoration) series 3 1972 last of the tax exempt and very original. I do have a VIN plate for that but had the same issues with my galvenized chassis but will be pushing it a bit more now with the info everyone has provided.

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Its neve been a raqnge rover its always been a series with conversions and stuff done by each owner. I have added the V8 and previous owner did running gear onto disco axles and spings. I will go with the plate near the gear sticks and challenge anything else after that,

Is 1970 a IIA or bordeline Series 3, I have a 1972 which states series 3 on the logbook.

The first SIIIs, as Rich said, came out in 1972. On an 88", the main differences between a 1970 IIA and 72 III would be the body work (bonnet and door hinges, dash panel, front door stays and window locks), the all-synchromesh gear box and the clutch, but some of the very late IIAs had SIII transmissions and some early SIIIs had SIIA hinges... you know what LR are like.

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Bit of a surprise when I got home and power washed the mud off as the farmer didnt even know and when you saw it the springs were all bending the wrong way after sat for years and the brakes had gone but the rest was worth it. :)

My 1970 looks nothing like a IIA now its more like a defender with some old bits in it :)

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