Orgasmic Farmer Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Am about to embark on wiring my 110 rebuild. It is a very early 110 hardtop and as such the front to rear chassis loom only has provision for rear lights and fuel gauge (?). Before I pull it through the new chassis I want to upgrade it ready for future upgrades. Things I can think off I might add would be Rear heated screen Rear wash wipe Can anyone think of anything else I might wish to add back there which would benefit from pre-placed wires. Cheers Pike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poohbear Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Wiring for work lamp or load bay lighting & 12v supply for 'accessories', loudspeaker wiring? Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Why not just fit a chassis loom from a better-specced model? Save faffing with adding wires yourself. But since you asked, I would run a couple of permanent supplies fused off the battery, two pairs of speaker wires, heated screen, rear wiper wiring, and maybe some coax for a CB aerial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 I would run a 'heavy' 12v supply suitable for 40-50A or so, include an earth wire for it and then some multicore phone wire, you can then split the supply with a 6 ish way fuse box and use the phone cable to control the relays coming off the fuse box. Easy wiring for worklamps, beacons, 12v sockets, in cab controls for tipping trailer, trailer worklamps etc etc. I'd also put a heavy supply down the chassis for an anderson connecter inside the back door for easy jumpstarting, tipping trailers etc. Probably overkill but Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 My loom appears to be in good nick. If I thought I could get hold of a better specced loom of known quality for the price of 20 metres of cable I would be doing that! Coax might be a good idea and the speaker cables definitely makes sense as does a work light. Additional power will be taken care of direct from the battery box which is being moved to a purpose made locker in one of the forward wheel boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Mark, I take it your loom has towing connections? it may be worth running some cables if you decide to include a split charge 12s socket later also what about rear work lights? Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 If you try to add too many wires you won;t get the loom through the chassis, when i did my rechassis i only just got the standard loom through! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 I wouldnt put it back in the chassis,the inside is full of sharp edges and its not possible to ensure that the loom wont rub on them.I've had loom faults for this very reason on factory installed looms. It is very easy to fit a well protected loom along the top of the chassis where it is easy to inspect/service/modify if need be.It can also dry out rather than hang around in whatever the chassis is collecting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Definitely put a 12v supply down to the rear light cover, Pikey, to run your fridge. And I'd run it along the top too. HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Your potentially asking asking me about how many wires to run................ Have you seen Tim's Truck Regards Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 depends what you want and if you use it for work, whether you tow, whether you do roadside work, if you want to add anything for the looks etc. on mine, i tow, use it for work and do roadside work i also use it for play. on the rear of my cab, i have 2x worklamps, a beacon bar, 2x cb ariels (do use my cb a lot but the second one is for show (will be for the radio antenna) i would also reccomend an interior light in the rear. most of these, in a hardtop need running along the chassis if you want to do it neat. my cab loom also included my roof markers, but as it was a truck cab it had to run up the front pillar then above the headlining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I'd agree with Muddy, large power feed (personally I would run +ve and -ve straight from battery) fused to something like 70A, and then run a nice waterproof fuse box/distribution board in the back of the truck, and run a bundle of 10 or 15 thincore wires of multi colours for switching relays. That way you have a good earth available, ample power and control wires for switching relays, and minimal volts drop over the cable run/connections. Fridge must be fairly hefty -10-20A on start up or so? Plus a couple of worklamps (10A), HRW (20-30A), wiper (5A), couple of cigar lighter sockets..... it will soon add up very quickly. Then some nice thick speaker wire, a pair of RCA leads (for a rear amp in the future?), some coax for CB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 Got me wondering now whether to look for some galvanised C-section tracking to mount above the rail in which I can run the leccy, fuel pipes, brake pipe, coax and anything else I might think of. Would be a neat way of doing it and would be easier to fix to a few key points on the galv chassis rather than trying to mount everything where no holes for fixings exist! Hmmmm, got me thinking now, I will get back to you all. Thanks for comments so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 http://www.cablofil.com/content.aspx?page=24237§ion=57 something like this..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Ahem, Currently strewn across my study floor is the following. For on top of the O/S chassis rail: Full 110 loom (inc HRW, wash/wipe), Re-made in protecty-conduit with proper t- or y-pieces. But kept as LR-standard as possible inc correct colours so fault-finding is easier. Fuel supply and return hoses 12-core trailer cable in separate conduit, y-spliced into two, one for a modern 13-pin trailer socket, one to an old-school 7-pin. This will feed back to the fusebox so I can have a proper trailer+flasher setup) Brake pipe For on top of the N/S chassis rail: ‘Aux functions loom, protected in proper conduit – as per Bowie69 and Muddy’s instructions above, i.e. a thick ol’ positive and negative, various relay control cables, fused at 70 A and additional fuses/switches in a proper box, mounted on the n/s rear quarter. – I.e. accessible with the rear door only partly open, letting me turn on the rear work light/inside light +VE and –VE 35mm2 cables for Anderson ‘jump’ socket/future rear winch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Mark Pm sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 If it's any help, this is what I did with mine: 2 'upside down top hat' brackets attached to the chassis with fuel pipe, brake pipe and loom all attached securely onto it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Run some multi-core trailer cable along, that way you have 7x spare wires already in their own wrapper, and the decent stuff is rated to ~8A per core which is plenty to run a worklight etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyLee Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Don't ever run a long earth from battery just pick it up locallly , otherwise you'll create an earth potential ,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 http://www.cablofil....4237§ion=57 something like this..... I was planning to do that with mine, think it's a good idea Don't ever run a long earth from battery just pick it up locallly , otherwise you'll create an earth potential ,, How so? If you don't run any earths through the body at all would this still be the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 Don't ever run a long earth from battery just pick it up locallly , otherwise you'll create an earth potential ,, Can you explain this to a electrical numpty please.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Can you explain this to a electrical numpty please.... I think he was suggesting that having a clean earth direct to battery and a dirty earth through the bodywork would create a differential in resistance between the two, hence affecting things in a negative manner. Ergo my suggestion of running all the earths down dedicated cables and not having any bodywork earths at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyLee Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Sorry , if all the devices connected to a supply share the same earth i.e. the chassis/body then they have equal potential. If you run a separate earth then this will have a resistance which will be greater than that achieved by using the chassis as earth. This can then cause a potential difference between circuits, This would then make circuits pass current looking for an easier return to earth than the long wire . You notice it in audio with earth loops. Haven't thought about this for over 20 years !! Finding it hard to explain. BUT when I did installation work for vodafone etc ( carphone and radio comms stuff) we used to have to run separate earths to battery and fuse both earths and supplies. ( the fusing earth wires was because of electron flow actualy being from neg to pos if i remember) Does this help ?if not I'll try and find a reference on the tinternet somewhere. Main crux of point was keep earths as short as possible and using a minimum of same thickness cable as supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyLee Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 a good example would be back lights with a bad earth problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Don't ever run a long earth from battery just pick it up locallly , otherwise you'll create an earth potential ,, Edited to add: the fusing earth wires was because of electron flow actualy being from neg to pos if i remember) Neither of these make any sense to me at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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