Retroanaconda Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Was just thinking that's exactly the sort of thing they'd test. Just bonding a pair of plates together with a ring welded to each would be sufficient, the problem would be measuring the force required to pull them apart. Need one of those force gauges that the Mythbusters guys used to test the phone books myth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Tensile strength (CQP 036-1 / ISO 37) 2 N/mm2 Tear propagation resistance (CQP 045-1 / ISO 34) 6 N/mm Elongation at break (CQP 036-1 / ISO 37) 200% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 so to 8in square plates bonded together should be enough to lift 3500kg using fag packet maths and approximations..... what's rolling resistance in relation to weight? on a tarmac level surface ..... maybe we could all just glue our hitches on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpants Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 One of the other advantages to the adhesives like this over some others (like the common epoxies) is that they are pretty viscous and are good at gap filling so they don't run when you are odd angles and they tolerate some variation in the bond line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Hmmm ??? Reading this makes me wonder again I have flat alli panels to fix to inch square alli tubes. Now this is where the problem lies. If I use Sicaflex or Tiger seal. I have to fit any over panels to the panels already fitted straight away. That might not be possible as it may be over a week before I can do the overpanel. I have some 3M VHB tape. Now that is goox. Except for the price and it lets the panel sit proud of the tube.... So. I'm using pop rivits....How about paint as the "glue" ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Hmmm ??? Reading this makes me wonder again I have flat alli panels to fix to inch square alli tubes. Now this is where the problem lies. If I use Sicaflex or Tiger seal. I have to fit any over panels to the panels already fitted straight away. That might not be possible as it may be over a week before I can do the overpanel. I have some 3M VHB tape. Now that is goox. Except for the price and it lets the panel sit proud of the tube.... So. I'm using pop rivits....How about paint as the "glue" ? When I did the trailer I 'stuck' ali sheet to ali bar it went off to grip resistance within a the hour and I only needed to use one rivet to hold a panel that had a bend in it!! I think when the makers refer to "going off" they mean chemically changed and cured not just able to grip, but to be able to take the fully specified load. A bit like when you paint a car, the paint can take days to 'go off' but it will be dry within a few hours, which then gives you time to repair any drips. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Yes Jason. It's not the first panel to the frame I'm bothered about. It's the second panel attatched to the first panel on the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Mike, I think you will be pleasantly surprised, I only used the rivet to hold a flexing panel whilst I sealed around the frame, I guess it depends on the weight of the second panel etc but as above the tigerseal I used became pretty immovable after an hour and I was able to sit on it (15st +) after a couple of hours. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 That's how I see the problem. It's immovable...How will it react to another panel being fitted later ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 One other property of PU adhesive that's been VERY useful to me over the years is that it's inert to pretty much anything you find on a vehicle including petrol. I've used it as a fuel proof gasket sealant/glue for fitting and sealing fuel senders, extra pickup/return pipes, vent pipes etc to the top of custom ali tanks. Try that with silicon and you end up with a lovely jelly in your fuel filters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 That's how I see the problem. It's immovable...How will it react to another panel being fitted later ? Ah sorry Mike I think I understand now , so you want to remove and renew the panels not just stick other things over the top? If that is case then PU sealant is not going to be your friend, once its gone off you are into angle grinder world to remove it. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 That's how I see the problem. It's immovable...How will it react to another panel being fitted later ? If i understand you are wanting to fix one panel to the ali tubes one week and then another panel to the first panel a week later? The fist will have gone off in that time, but as with all PU sealer adhesives there is a certain amount off give , how much depends on how thick you apply the sealant, so there will be a degree of flexibility when you come to fix the second panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Im confused Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Im confused I'm Mike..... Well I've tried paint on two bits of alli...Grey floor paint that's stuck them together quite well. Then some straight onto metal paint. I'll look at thet tomorrow. A lot easier and cheaper as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 You can get activators. IIRC an 8x4 sheet of ali on a fridge wagon side is stuck still after 30 seconds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 My recent experiences with PU adhesives (Tigerseal in this case) has taught me one thing, that stuff, once cured is completely and utterly impossible to remove from anything. Stuck the rear floor down on my 110 with it then realsied that I'd left a ratchet and some other odds n sods in the crossmembers. The nice sheet of ali looked VERY second hand after I finally got it off.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Oh dear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted March 18, 2012 Author Share Posted March 18, 2012 What would people recommend then for sealing an ali floor into a Classic with the option of future removal as it looks like PU sealant is not the right stuff for the job I have in mind........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 You want a butyl Mastic or tape if you want to remove at a later date http://www.caravan-components.co.uk/epages/BT2955.sf/?Locale=en_GB&ObjectPath=/Shops/BT2955/Products/SBM015&ViewAction=ViewProductViaPortal http://www.caravan-components.co.uk/Sealants/Butyl-Mastics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 Cheers Tony! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Cheers for the advice so far....Boot floor replacement mission plan: My plan is to seal the new replacement floor supports (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANDROVER-DISCOVERY-REAR-FLOOR-REPAIR-KIT-/320792133997?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab0b3816d) in with PU sealant and a few choice located bolts or rivets along their length. Should be as strong as weld and floor is non-structural as RR has separate chassis........ The Ali floor will then be sealed in place with butyl mastic and rivetted - I can them remove in future with ease. Will also use butyl mastic to seal in the original front and rear rubber sealing strips for the Ali floor. Comments gratefully received Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 My recent experiences with PU adhesives (Tigerseal in this case) has taught me one thing, that stuff, once cured is completely and utterly impossible to remove from anything. Stuck the rear floor down on my 110 with it then realsied that I'd left a ratchet and some other odds n sods in the crossmembers. The nice sheet of ali looked VERY second hand after I finally got it off.... Jeff, is there a humorous story to this like the others you've been able to type with the uninjured parts of your body? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobson Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Sikaflex is great stuff, sticks anything to anything! a chap who we used to know who built motorhomes used to use it a lot. Wear gloves when using it though, it's a nightmare to get off skin, i even tried a belt sander, still didn't get it all off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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