santalars Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Hi, although not new to the forum, I am new in the series forum (still have my defender though). I have just bought an 1964 109 soft top. I have so far not a clue what i'm talking about I will pick her up on Saturday. What I know so far is that it was running 5 years ago. It turns over and probably gets fuel. However, it does not have a Spark. The radiator is "new". It would be much appreciated if you could have a look at the photos and let me know what you think I might have to expect. Bought it for 1200 NZD approx 600 pounds. So excited to get my hands on her Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Oh she looks pretty! one day I'll try a series. Have you got a plan for her? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Looks sweet! Bit concerned what's going on here: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 ^^^^ Looks as if a pulley is a little off centre^^^^^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 No idea about the belt, but the Landy looks in good nick and should be a great project. Another one saved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Very nice It looks like an ex-military one from the headlight mounts and electric sockets in the rear panel That crank pulley looks to be almost off the crank , you can see the shiny oilseal surface on the pulley boss - check the bolt in the end , you'll need a deep socket or box spanner to get it as the crank handle dog is all part of it ..nice rust free bulkhead , you lucky man! cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 She looks lovely! I wouldn't try turning it over until something's done about that crank pulley... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Ah, I saw this one on TM as well, and was sorely tempted! It's ex military indeed. Keep us posted!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco2hse Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Good stuff. Is it 24 or 12V? I wonder if the top pulley has been replaced. This model had the big alternator too didn't it? If it did, then there will have been two belts driving the alternator and the top pulley is a single only, instead of a double. Maybe a new water pump at some time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Many thanks for your replies so far! - this will alway be the best forum of all !! As said I will pick up on Saturday and have not seen her in real yet - so there will be surprises for me. I hope it is 12 v Well spotted with the pully. The current owner said that he had that fixed now for his trials to fire it up. The problem with it not starting is as he described "it has power at the coil but not from the coil - no spark" Any early idea what could be wrong - apart from the coil itself. can I use any coil or do I need a specific one (i mean for sure as long as it is the right voltage) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Well it looks like it is a 24v to me but the coil and HT leads etc have been changed to the normal 12v stuff with the coil fed from the dropper box. Check that the coil is a 12v one and not a 10v for a ballast system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Look slike 24V to me too, with that dropper box on the rocker cover. It does appear though, that the alternator is a much more standard, i.e. not the old Rover 'Generator' and panel system. which was huge, used for charging the radio batteries at 90A. So if that is the case, you may find the generator and shunt panel gone, which is good as they can be troublesome... and a modern 24V alternator bolted in place. 24V electrics have many advantages over 12V, don't worry yourself about it too much Lack of spark could well be rusted up points, failed rotor arm, dead dizzy cap. You may find it easier just to replace them all (plus condenser) as they are cheap (well over here they are...) as it has been laid up for along while, corrosion plays havoc with these pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Many thanks! I will look into these issues over the weekend and keep you posted. My aim is to get her over the wof and on the road with a minimum and the I'll care for all the lots of bits and details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted September 22, 2012 Author Share Posted September 22, 2012 ok, here we go. picked her up today. Looks tidy, not too bad. quite a bit of welding has ben done but not too bad. Could somone please have a look at the photos and let me know if the wiring for the coil is approx as it should be? Its 24 volts and it looks like we have negative ground. The current comming out of the dropper box is 24 volts ??? very strange. there is 24 volts a the output of the dropper box even directly behind the resistor. I thought that should be 12v ? power goes through so no problems. is that how it is supposed to be? batteries ar hooked up to give it a go tomorrow. ah, and I already made some progress, the horn is working ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 The dropper box is just an electrical choke. It has a resistor winding which drops the voltage, but only when the current is flowing. Imagine a restriction in the middle of a water pipe - with the tap turned off, the water pressure will be at supply pressure all the way to the tap, but once the tap is opened, the pressure down stream of the restriction will drop. You'll find that with the engine running, the output from the choke will be 10V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 No spark - clean the points and re-adjust them. Its the problem with 90% of petrol engines that have been standing. Don't do anything until that pulley's sorted. The timing chain mechanism may fall apart and wreck things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted September 23, 2012 Author Share Posted September 23, 2012 Thanks guys! I got her running !!! The pully is a tensioner. i fixed it temporarily but need to sort that out permanently. The issue with the spark was a broken wire inside the distributor connecting point to coil. easy fix but hard to find. I checked that petrol was fresh and made sure that it gets delivered to the carb. Had an in line fuel filter installed too. Well then it needed two new batteries - which was the pricy bit ...plugs checked, pistons oiled, manually turned a couple of times... I've been told that "odi" ,how I will call her, stood for 5 years in the shed. Now the amazing bit: a very short touch of the Starter button and we had sweet and smooth running !!!!! yay !! It's a solex carb. does anyone now how to properly tune? now onto the clutch and brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 Great stuff! It's amazing how many "stood for x amount of years" stories you hear which end with that result, with a relatively easy fix. I wonder if your clutch was like mine and frozen to the flywheel with rust... Hope not! Purchase a Haynes manual if you haven't already, it will cover a total "how to" on solex carbs and they are an invaluable addition to any workshop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 Solex carb, if running OK, then leave well alone! You can only tune the idle mixture anyways, the main choke is pretty fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 Hi jjm, good oint you mention there with the clutch .... yep frozen. just found out after I got the hydrailics sorted before I take it al apart does anyone has an idea how to "unfreeze" at least to try? ok, I guess I know ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Hi jjm, good oint you mention there with the clutch .... yep frozen. just found out after I got the hydrailics sorted before I take it al apart does anyone has an idea how to "unfreeze" at least to try? ok, I guess I know ... Teather the vehicle with ground anchors and wheel chocks, engage 1st low and start the engine with the clutch pedal pressed down. Just make sure you do it in a safe location where if it jumps the chocks and slips the teathers you won't harm anyone/anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 I've done similar to the above. Start in gear with the clutch down, allow some speed to build. Jam on the brakes. Hard. It normally lets go with a bang - just to warn you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 As Mr Reckless says. I've done the same on our old Ford 3000 tractor. It sees little use of the winter and the clutch is frequently stuck in the spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 I would give it a try but the problem is different. I got all the clutch hydraulics going and I can now, with quite some force required, press down the clutch pedal and get the mechanism moving. However the clutch does not engage. I can put a gear in with running engine and nothing will happen. Clutch pedal is really heavy to press and only comes back very reluctantly. Because of this I hope it's "just" a clutch problem and not a broken shaft. can the clutch become stuck in the open position? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Ah, yes I know what your saying. The pedal returns very slowly but goes straight to the floor (but heavy to press)? My old s2a did that, it had been stood for 20 years in a paddock. My brakes were also like that. However, I found that pumping the pedal increased the pressure a lot until the pedal literally froze halfway in, and wouldnt come back out. I pretty much leaned on it really hard, nearly jumped on it.. Then it went clunk! And the pedal went straight to the floor but returned far faster with a spring loaded feel to it. After that it worked perfectly! I think I had a either a frozen release fork, clutch release bearing, slave cylinder or master cylinder. They are expensive to replace if you use something like Landroverparts.co.nz but if you use paddock spares its cheaper (although shipping to our neck of the woods is pretty up there) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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