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Antifreeze Renewal


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If I cut a corner and just siphon the radiator empty and then pour in five litres of neat antifreeze, what damage could I be doing to myself?

Flushing the system would be the correct procedure but I am lacking the will! :wacko:

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on what car?

anything with a 300Tdi has the same risks what ever you do.....

If I make a mixing mistake I get SWMBO to slowly add antifreeze to rad top plug while I let the diluted mix out of the block tap, that way system always full, but that is only if I find I have over diluted the mix to begin with but why not just do it properly? Takes just as long to faff about with the siphon than to drop the drain plug and turn the tap on the engine and then re-fill and bleed.

Just one piece of advice from me, don't cut corners to save time and effort, it often ends up taking a lot longer and a lot more effort, not to mention money the second time around!!!

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If the system is in good order (always been kept with the right antifreeze concentration, and any topping-up's been done with clkean water) then it shouldn't need flushing.

Easy way to drain the system is to park facing downhill, then detach the bottom radiator-hose and one of the small pipes that connect to the heater unit on the bulkhead. Remove the filler-cap and watch the gurgling! So long as what comes out is clear (and doesn't contain rust or anything gritty) you'll be OK.

Then reconnect the pipes and refill with an appropriate quantity of 50/50 antifreeze and water. Your biggest problem is likely to be getting all the air-locks out when it's refilling.

Remember to use the right antifreeze though: it's not recommended to mix 'classic' blue Glycol and modern red Organic Acid Technology (OAT) antifreeze.

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It's a 200tdi, detaching bottom rad hose is work that I can avoid by siphoning. If only I had a drain plug!

It is just the flushing bit i will be missing, so leaving a few litres, in the block, of the old coolant.

I know I am being lazy!

Is it all ok really? :-)

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PS Isn't it amazing that I can have 5lts of antifreeze, delivered to the door, the next day for £11.99 all in.

The cheapest I could find was GMF at £17.50.

I hope Triple QX is as good as needed............

I think it is amazing anyway!

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I though mine would be fine after only a couple of years.

Drained it out by taking bottom hose off and it all seemed fairly clean. Then I thought "what the heck" and stuffed a hose pipe in - well what came out was a surprise <_< and it took a good 10 mins to get all the crud out. Where did it come from? New rad and water pump 2 years ago with new antifreeze but still there's muck in there.

Take the bottom hose off, have a stream of antifreeze up your sleeve, and then flush it - you'll only worry otherwise.

See, you already are by asking here.

Malcolm

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Grr. I was hoping to be let off lightly :-)

I could do it again mid summer!

Why am I so lazy?

Easy, it is winter and it's cold out there, not exactly an incentive to be getting a wet sleeve this time of year is it?

I am too struggling to find enthusiasm for my project as the barn is Fing freezing when the dark draws in!!!

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If you pull the pipe off of the expansion tank (catch what is left in there in a small container) and stick a length of hose up it, you can drain it via the hose into a bucket. If you twist the hose down so it is beneath the rad, it will get about half of the coolant out. Then undo the heater pipes and stick a running hose up each in turn and flush the system (also reverse flush the heater). Remove the bung on the top of the rad and fill that a few times and allow it to drain. Repeat all of this until the mix runs clear. Put the pipes back together. Fill the system with neat antifreeze (you need to add half of the amount that is required to fill) and then top up with water. The water pump will mix the stuff with the clean water that is retained in the system

Doing it this way is easy, avoids getting to that awkward bottom hose, avoids the hassle of the drain on the block and also allows you to collect the waste and dispose of it rather than leaving puddles running down the road for cats and dogs to drink!

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I personally use rain water collected in my water butts from my roof then filtered through a strainer into a plastic barrel for doing such things, ecological and cost effective too..

I would not have guessed to do that :o

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I siphoned the rad, out came 7 litres, poured in 5 litres neat antifreeze and topped up with the old liquid!

By doing this you may have quite significantly reduced the frost protection on your vehicle. Neat antifreeze freezes at a significantly higher temperature than when it is mixed with water. The lowest possible freezing point is when the antifreeze is at around 50% concentration: this is what is usually recommended by the manufacturers of the antifreeze, and they don't say it because it saves you money!

My advise is to buy an antifreeze tester and find out exactly how much frost protection you've got.

Nick.

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Tested the freezing temp with my poundland tester.

Bit confusing as the bulb seems to float at different levels depending on the pressure in the sucker bellows.

It went from -36 down to -20. Quite a difference. Is there a special way to handle these devices.

Is there an alternative recommended tester people know of?

:D

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I have a Sykes-Pickavant one that looks like an ear syringe. It has 4 balls that can float. 3 floaters = 40% which is the recommended mix for a RR Merlin!

I used to ask a trivial question that went like this:

It is -10c and your engine is frozen solid. What percentage of antifreeze are you using?

a 25%

b 50%

c 75%

d 100%

The answer is d.

If you have a ph tester, keep the ph above 8, anything lower is acidic.

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I reckon any tester is better than none. The problem we have here in South Africa is that the stuff is called 'Anti-Freeze' and those living where it never freezes just top up with water. I have overhauled a 300Tdi which was full of rust inside. The blades on the water pump had rusted away and the engine overheated. They do call it "Antifreeze and Summer Coolant" but what they don't emphasize is the corrosion protection.

And here the normal thing is to get rid of that OAT stuff - it turns to glue eventually and clogs up your motor. It is used mostly because it is non-poisonous and not because it is a better antifreeze. Best thing is to use good Ethylene Glycol and change it every two years before it becomes acidic.

My Tdi has 308 000 kms and the whole cooling system is original 27 years later - even all the hoses ..... I do keep an eye on them though.

Oh, and here is a picture of what dry OAT can do to a TD5 casting - strangely enough it corroded under the hose where it was dry ,,,

P9260122Small.jpg

P9260123Small.jpg

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