o_teunico Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 Posted 12 March 2013 - 07:08 PM o_teunico, on 12 Mar 2013 - 15:54, said: [img=http://www.famousfou...s/ff005666.jpg] Will MkIII have same problem as MkI?(centre tube not rotating) Will MkII Polybush be OK fot one link? MkIII uses a clip or similar at oposite side of lip? No as there a balljoint the centre is free to rotate. Yes a polybush would be fine for a one link....but in my view a ball joint is better. Yes on the back of a l322 or 5 series there is a cir clip on the other side as it will see side loads in this configuration. I machined the lip of mine and just pressed them in to a sleeve ther will only really ever see compression or tension in a link never really side loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Do you think it would be worth making some of these? To go with the Range Rover L322 wishbone joints. I'd figured on an M27 x 1.5mm pitch thread on the boss as it's a (fairly) standard, easy to obtain size for taps, lock nuts etc. I'm guessing they would cost about £25 - if I ordered about 100 off. That would give you a joint with more offset than a Jonny Joint for less than half the money? Having played with them a bit - I'm nothing but impressed with the design & construction. They look to me like an ideal choice for some suspension components - and being a standard LR part, easy to find spares! Further to my last post, the patterned joints seem to max out at exactly the same angle as the LR Genuine ones. They look like the same part! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 I'd figured on an M27 x 1.5mm pitch thread on the boss as it's a (fairly) standard, easy to obtain size for taps, lock nuts etc. Hi Si, If you kept the thread imperial then anyone that has already got links with JJ's in them could use yours.... plenty of opportunity for sales here in NA Post it up on D90 & Pirate & see what the response is..... BTW, your X-spring cans make good bump stop targets with a plate welded to the top of them too..... yes, there is a poly stop to go on there too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Do you think it would be worth making some of these? To go with the Range Rover L322 wishbone joints. I'd figured on an M27 x 1.5mm pitch thread on the boss as it's a (fairly) standard, easy to obtain size for taps, lock nuts etc. I'm guessing they would cost about £25 - if I ordered about 100 off. That would give you a joint with more offset than a Jonny Joint for less than half the money? Having played with them a bit - I'm nothing but impressed with the design & construction. They look to me like an ideal choice for some suspension components - and being a standard LR part, easy to find spares! Further to my last post, the patterned joints seem to max out at exactly the same angle as the LR Genuine ones. They look like the same part! Si I think that could be a good seller. Could you also do a version without the threaded bit, so you could weld them to a tube? Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomark10 Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Do you think it would be worth making some of these? To go with the Range Rover L322 wishbone joints. I'd figured on an M27 x 1.5mm pitch thread on the boss as it's a (fairly) standard, easy to obtain size for taps, lock nuts etc. I'm guessing they would cost about £25 - if I ordered about 100 off. That would give you a joint with more offset than a Jonny Joint for less than half the money? Having played with them a bit - I'm nothing but impressed with the design & construction. They look to me like an ideal choice for some suspension components - and being a standard LR part, easy to find spares! Further to my last post, the patterned joints seem to max out at exactly the same angle as the LR Genuine ones. They look like the same part! Si 1" unf might be better as the weld in treaded tube inserts are hard to find above that size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 I've never really liked the look of the ones with the weld on stubs. In my opinion if you could do a forged direct replacement for a Johnny joint you would have an excellent seller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Seems like a plan then! Forged would be great, save for the tooling cost! In practice, if welded by a Grown-Up (Nick Watts) they will be fine! I'd opted for metric because its much easier in Europe. If you want to make your own bosses, the tap will cost more than the joints. However, a direct replacement for JJ threads would make sense. If I get joints made, I'd get threaded bosses made at the same time as well as half nuts to lock them. It would also make sense to offer the rings separately in appreciation of the fact that more people can weld than machine stuff. I don't think I'll post them on Pirate - least not until they are real. Even with a yellow star - I think I'll be flamed on some account! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Could you redesign the stub to be a larger diameter at the housing? I realize it would increase the material and machining cost, but it would help them resist bending if there asked to resist indirect loads Given that you won't have any control over how badly people mount them, this could greatly help longevity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 I don't think I'll post them on Pirate - least not until they are real. Even with a yellow star - I think I'll be flamed on some account! Never.... get flamed on Pirate.... whatever next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Posting a picture of a modified Steak on Pirate would have it well done, and then some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLineMike Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 1 1/4" unf would get my vote (thumbs up) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 I've asked my fixings supplier for a quote for the jam nuts. Most metric sizes come out at about £1. 1 1/4" at a whopping £7 - just for the nut! I wonder if anyone would in practice swap out a JJ for one of these? Other than a bit more offset and easy parts availability, it doesn't offer much advantage. Also, the hole through these is 16mm where JJ's seem to be 7/16" / 5/8" / 9/16" - so, other than the 5/8" you would need some 'modification' doing. M27 or M30 x 1.5 look the most promising to me anyway. M30 will be strong enough for axial loading - though maybe a bit big for trailing arms? Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Also, the hole through these is 16mm where JJ's seem to be 7/16" / 5/8" / 9/16" - so, other than the 5/8" you would need some 'modification' doing. You have a point there.... maybe spin up some tube bungs as well to go with them (with flats for a spanner).... and ya got a winner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 I've asked my fixings supplier for a quote for the jam nuts. Most metric sizes come out at about £1. 1 1/4" at a whopping £7 - just for the nut! I wonder if anyone would in practice swap out a JJ for one of these? Other than a bit more offset and easy parts availability, it doesn't offer much advantage. Also, the hole through these is 16mm where JJ's seem to be 7/16" / 5/8" / 9/16" - so, other than the 5/8" you would need some 'modification' doing. M27 or M30 x 1.5 look the most promising to me anyway. M30 will be strong enough for axial loading - though maybe a bit big for trailing arms? Si I think your probably right Si, M30 would work nicely with 45mm OD 8mm wall cds, you'd just about be able to tap the tube without the need for a slug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 8mm wall cds I thought you had taken to lightweight construction these days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomark10 Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 The older celica rear arms also use the ball joint bush. About 45mm od Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomark10 Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 Got a bit of a question... is the a desired or maximum length for a 1 link, other than packaging reason's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 Ill have a stab at that. Now mind you with zero experience, I would say that it would want to be the same length as the prop shaft it is under. I would think that longer better than shorter given that it is always going to be angled down to the axle and the effects that has on ride and handling. lets see what the pros say? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomark10 Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 See I was thinking about the prop.. but the they are extendable for a reason! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 yes but if the 1 link is the same working length as the prop shaft then the pinion angle change through travel should remain constant with the prop shaft angle change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 Would I be correct in saying the longer the 1 link, the less change in pinion angle? (in relation to he transferbox flange). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 yep, if you had a 6 inch long link and 6 inches of down travel you would have about 90* of pinion change, if you had a 40 inch long link and 6 inches of down travel you would have about 8.5* of pinion change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomark10 Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 Ok, so I'm almost at the stage to start my 1 link and I've been looking at joints for it, Is this worth while? http://www.zuksoffroad.com/ZOR1link-basic-kit-one_p_175.html My old man goes to the US a few times a year due to family living there so I can get one here reasonably easy. I believe this joint is greasable too, my only worry about a joint is wear where as a bush wouldn't, but a bush would perish or even tear eventually depending on how much you push it. I would ideally want a fit and forget (other than maintenance) solution and I'de have to put a boot on it, maybe from a large'ish CV. The other Idea I had was to make a larger pin/bush like a D1/fender radius arm (chassis end). I've looked at other bushes/joints and to me they don't look strong enough or the right type of configuration. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 Ok, so I'm almost at the stage to start my 1 link and I've been looking at joints for it, Is this worth while? http://www.zuksoffroad.com/ZOR1link-basic-kit-one_p_175.html My old man goes to the US a few times a year due to family living there so I can get one here reasonably easy. I believe this joint is greasable too, my only worry about a joint is wear where as a bush wouldn't, but a bush would perish or even tear eventually depending on how much you push it. I would ideally want a fit and forget (other than maintenance) solution and I'de have to put a boot on it, maybe from a large'ish CV. The other Idea I had was to make a larger pin/bush like a D1/fender radius arm (chassis end). I've looked at other bushes/joints and to me they don't look strong enough or the right type of configuration. cheers I am using a 4"dia x2 1/2"wide Metalastic type trailing arm bushing from a Kenworth truck 6 rod rear suspension for my One Link. Set and forget ? Perish ? It is exactly the same bush from the One Link of my old 6x6 Landy from 35 years ago ! And it was second hand when I got it.! When I get around to modifying my present rear One Link, due to space constraints I will be replacing the Landcruiser radius arm bushing with a 'doctored' adjustable A frame ball joint off an old Rangey.I use them on the chassis end of my present 3 link front, and they are the dogs danglies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 I am using a 4"dia x2 1/2"wide Metalastic type trailing arm bushing from a Kenworth truck 6 rod rear suspension for my One Link. Set and forget ? Perish ? It is exactly the same bush from the One Link of my old 6x6 Landy from 35 years ago ! And it was second hand when I got it.! Definitely not Britpart then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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