HEAD GASKET!!

[gavfurn]

suspect head gasket/head gone,

going attempt it myself with a little help from my brother,

Does anyone have any experience with attempting this???

or can offer any advise other than dont??? lol.

i was in 2 minds cuz mot up in about a month, an needs few things doing. keep getting told to (scrap it) ,

carnt give up on her just yet, i dont have that type of money to take to the garage so either this or it is 6 foot under pushing up daisy's for the old girl,

dont want give in just yet

its a 95 disco 1 300 tdi,

many thanks gav

[Tetsu0san]

Head gasket is quite involving but as long as you take your time it is a pretty easy job. Tools you will need are a socket set, torque wrench and a dial gauge for tightening up the head bolts. I would also get a tipex pen or similar to mark the head bolts you have tightened as it can be easy to forget which one you have done. You tighten them up with the torque wrench first, then you turn them 60 degrees and then another 60 degrees.

People say to replace the head bolts but this is up to you. I think the Haynes manual says you can use the bolts up to 5 times or something, so I don't see the point in getting new bolts, but they are stretch bolts so a new set might not be a bad idea.

Get a good quality head gasket, a Payen one is as good as any and make a note of the number of holes in it as this is a thickness indicator. If in doubt replace with a 3 hole.

I would get the head skimmed and if you can, get it pressure tested. 300Tdi heads are prone to cracking and you can usually spot a crack but sometimes you can't. Also I would re-seat the valves and replace the valve stem oil seals.

Once the head if off I would check the bores for any nasty looking scores and also see if then bores are glazed. If you are thinking of scrapping then this might be the reason to either keep or scrap it. Glazed bores or scored bores could mean a trip to the local engineering shop for either a re-hone or a re-bore and this could get expensive. But again, it depends on how much you want to throw at it. Glazed bores will just give poor performance and probably make the engine smoke.

When you have got it all back together I would do the valve clearances.

And, when you take the rocker shaft off, make sure you don't lose the valve caps either on the floor or inside the engine. That is a right royal pain in the backside.

[benthng]

Hi garfum

As said above its not a difficult DIY job just tedious, You need the following:

Tools:

1. 1/2" socket set & torque wrench as stated above

2. VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR otherwise it will be a very long day

3. 1 set Feeler Gauge (to check valve standdown / piston height)

4. 1' Steel Ruler (to check cyl. head for warpage)

5. Valve lapping hand tool (rubber suction cup on wooden stick)

5. Plastic Scraper (to scrap old gasket etc of head / block)

6. 300 tdi Overhaul Manual http://www.google.com.my/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CC0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.landroverresource.com%2Fdocs%2F300TDi_Overhaul_Manual.pdf&ei=HALJUeWeEZDQrQeXmYC4Dw&usg=AFQjCNGN_xukI_FMyt7csezW_2obba00xw&sig2=d54v79wUgPwahw-JPDw29w&bvm=bv.48293060,d.bmk

7. Note book & Pen to record measurements & faults found

Supplies & Parts (to be determined after visual inspections):

1. Hi temp Gasket Maker (1 tube)

2. Valve Grinding Paste

3. Gasket Paper (if u removing to look see the Thermostat / Water Pump)

4. ELRING Head Gasket (correct thickness to be determined after measuring piston height)

5. Manifold Gasket (any brand but must have metal insert matching exhaust header)

6. Valve stem Rubber Seals - 8 pcs

7. Rocker Cover Gasket

Optional Parts if Really Bad Luck

1. If rockers loose - valve caps may be missing

2. if rocker shaft loose - check stud / bolts / pedestal and also shaft for breakage

3. If push rod bent (roll it on flat table) - check tappet slide for damage

4. If valve cant slide freely - then its bent and its seat will be bad

5. If valve can shake within its slide - valve slide is worn and need to replace

6. Check valve landing area and valve seat for excessive pitting - otherwise hand lap & regrind

7. Check valve collet (tiny clips for valve stem) - change if in doubt

8. Measure all valve spring (straight and same height) - if change use only LR Oriiginal (britpart broke on 2 occasions)

9. Visually check piston bores, if cross hatching still evident leave it alone

Procedures and Step by Step Guides:

1. Cyl Head Takeoff by Les Henson http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8179

2. MEASURING PISTON HEIGHT, checking Cyl Bore & determine Head Gasket Thickness - see 300 TDI Overhaul Manual

3. Check Cyl Head for warpage & cracks (see Overhaul Manual) - dont worry about regrinding, plenty of meat before its over

4. MEASURE VALVE STAND DOWN (Overhaul Manual) and lap / grind valve to tolerance level - dont worry if its grinded in a little too much as long as the seats are still thick enough

5. Reuse the Head Bolts (reuseable 5 times) unless damaged or u had them remove twice already coz bloke before u did 3

6. When installing head to block - make sure the dowels in place on the head and put in the last 2 head bolts & tie them so they dont get in the way (otherwise u cant get the bolts in when head is on the block).

7. BOLT DOWN ACCORDING TO SEQUENCE AS STATED IN ELRING HEAD GASKET PRODUCT SHEET (same as Overhaul Manual).

I think that covers it all, good luck and hopefully happy days!

[gavfurn]

Stupid question

What about the timing????

All the vids I've seen no one mentions it??

I always thought you had to do this (line it up etc) before starting and is throwing us???? :-S

Any suggestions??? Or do you know about this???

thank you gav

[CwazyWabbit]

It's not an overhead cam so you don't affect the timing.

The cam sits in the block so no need to remove the timing belt to remove the head.

[disco_al]

Supplies & Parts (to be determined after visual inspections):

1. Hi temp Gasket Maker (1 tube)

2. Valve Grinding Paste

3. Gasket Paper (if u removing to look see the Thermostat / Water Pump)

4. ELRING Head Gasket (correct thickness to be determined after measuring piston height)

5. Manifold Gasket (any brand but must have metal insert matching exhaust header)

6. Valve stem Rubber Seals - 8 pcs

7. Rocker Cover Gasket

don't forget some anti freeze and an oil filter and oil as well.

it's quite an easy job (apart from the almost guarenteed rounded/awkward manifold bolt/stud (a 3/8ths socket set is useful, along with extensions) allow about a day. as it's your first time, allow a day and a half if all goes well.

if you were closer i'd offer to give you a hand, done this job plenty of times now

[gavfurn]

Thank you very much all of you! Its a big help and very grateful for your replys

And thanks for the offer anyway disco al good of ya, will keep ya posted

[Boydie]

I've changed one on the "road-side" in the bush, I never go anywhere in Oz without a spare head gasket !! Given the tools listed above (and I cary most of them in my on board too, box) its not a problem and when checking the valve clearances remember that the valves add up to 9 (8+1;7 +2 etc) the gasket I carry as a "spare' is a composite one with NO holes drilled, ie its the maximum thickness and will at a push make up for any minor head distorsion, the trick is to monitor your coolant temperatures and levels,

[gavfurn]

cheers guys!!!!

managed get it all off today, 1st time doing something like this so it was quite dawnting, but all off, head cleaned and old gasket, carb cleaned off, tomorrow its a case off making sure its not warped didnt dare check today thought that would be pushing my luck, the head looks clean enough (no rust or dissfigurments) was abit concerened about that,

I see what you mean by its quite easy to take off really, was expecting it be lot harder than that. but like i said didnt want push my luck, (i get alot just ashame its all bad)

can anything be used to help clean all he s#@t from off the head external body, eg house hold stuff or de-greaser, so its nice an clean, to man handle or is there any chemicals to avoid???

When i put the rocker arm back on, are they self adjusters?? someones told me they are?? so does this mean i can put it back on, and it'll sort its self, even tho put pins in they have moved (spun) silly questions i know but like i say 1st time going this far in the engine and wanna be sure,

Many thanks gavin

[Tetsu0san]

You could use some brake cleaner or some degreaser to clean the head, but as it's alloy you have to be careful with some degreasers. If you have access to a steam cleaner that is pretty good, but failing that even just some washing up liquid, a brush and some warm water is good enough. If you can clean the exhaust and inlet ports out you should be able to see if there are any cracks. These will show up as a black line in the casting where the carp gets in and it's not cleaned out. Hopefully you will be OK. Are you going to reseat the valves? If you can it would be good as you can't do this with the head on, but it's not the end of the world.

Clean the surface of the block with a nylon scouring pad. Make sure you get rid of any debris that falls into the bores. Also, just before you put the head back on I would put a little oil in each bore. This will help it starting over when clean and help prevent damage to the bores.

The rocker will just go back on but you will need to check the valve clearances once it's all back together.

Once thing I will say is just make sure that there are no cables or pipes in the way when you put the head back on. It's very easy to get something caught, especially around the back. Just check and check again, just in case.

[Tetsu0san]

I just re-read your question. Don't worry about your timing when you put the head back on. Just put in on and tighten up the head bolts. If this was an overhead cam you would have to worry, but this is a simple engine, nothing to complicated.

Did you make a note of which push rod went into which hole?

[gavfurn]

Thanks tetsu, yeah I put push rods and head pins in pieces of card how they came out an marked from to back,

P.s can the oil be cleaned out the rocker cover part too?? Or is it best just leave that part??

[disco_al]

Cillit bang is quite good

[Boydie]

Send your wife out shopping and while she is spending your hard earned use the dishwasher on pots wash --- works every time but do it before she gets home, women are very perticular about these things and damage to your personal health could result is she comes home early before you get the chance to cover your tracks. My head and associated parts, water pump and housing, inlet manifold etc. came out very well and the bruises and memory of the pain have since faded

[gavfurn]

Hahaha!!! So true, I'd be getting surgery, to get it removed from a certain area shall we say if she caught me doing that,

But yet again! She's at work tomorrow, and I do have the day off??? Mmmmmm

Putting it off another day wouldn't hurt!??!!?

[Tetsu0san]

I wouldn't worry about cleaning the rockers or the shaft, just clean the head. I would have used my dishwasher but I value my meat and two veg...

[gavfurn]

wow gasket and head are back on now, what a pain in the back side, the 2 bolts at the back (16, 18) are to tighten, never mind with the dial gauge, why couldnt it be just tourqe settings like it used be,

never mind all done now, how do you guys do it?? or do you take the engine out???

just got keep popping out now n again keep putting bits on, inbetween the rain drops, (slatting it down)

thanks again fellas, you bin great!!

this rate should be back on the road tomorrow at some point,

just a quick one do you need take your time driving, for a certain amount of miles or something when its running???

i dont thrash it on the roads anyway, rarely go near the 3000 revs (driving miss daisy i know lol) but want make sure??

Thanks again gav,

[Tetsu0san]

No, you can just drive it. It's not like a rebore or engine rebuild.

Just keep an eye on the temperature and drive until the thermostat opens and then check the water levels. Hopefully you have got all the air out of the system anyway but the 300Tdi's can be a pig the bleed.

[gavfurn]

What about checking the head bolts do you have to check them again???

[western]

What about checking the head bolts do you have to check them again???

No need to touch the head bolts again, once fitted / torqued up as specified that's job done.

[gavfurn]

Thanks guys!!!! You've bin a massive help to a complete novice on jobs on this scale,

P.s there isn't a clear marking of flued level on the coolant expansion tank, is it about half way say to the lip????? That's todays job setting tappets, air out the fuel system, and coolant. Then the start up, I know its taken awhile but just taken my time to make sure, then through the rain bin called off,

[Bowie69]

Half way, but make sure you top it up with the engine running and squeeze hoses to get the air out the system, heater switched to ON.

Sounds like you have enjoyed yourself

[gavfurn]

Yeah lots of fun!!

Great experience for someone who's just changed a few parts really, breaks,starters,alternators etc,

Great engine to get started with something as dawnting as a head gasket,

Easy enough work on.

Cheers fella

[davyd8899]

Worth changing the timing/cam belt and poly belt as well, depending on how long they have been on, again lots of really good guides to follow on here, would be a shame to replace the HG for the timing belt to snap further down the line,

[benthng]

Great to know its all done up, congratulations