qwakers Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 i really need to get help from someone that knows the p38 4.0 v8 inside out because i am well and truly stumped now. i would recompense with copious beer? this is a great community and i appreciate your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Perhaps give us a clue whats wrong...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 he did, it's a P38, lol - hat, coat, exit stage left..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie_grieve Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Yup, as above give us a clue.You got the EKA code for it? Does it start? Does it drive? Does it stop? Has it been drowned recently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 just done head gaskets. put it back together. turns over fine wont fire. damn sure the firing order is right but it sounds like it isnt. im sure im missing something stupid but im damned if i know what it is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie_grieve Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Ah, could be a can of worms!! I'd say check the basics first, is there pressure in the fuel rail? Are you getting a spark at the appropriate moment? You just changed the head gaskets so obviously have a good idea what you're doing but sometimes a fresh pair of eyes or ears can just pick something staring you in the face. Keep us posted how you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 yeah. im sure its something stupid... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 is it syncronised? becm syncmate? not sure of the symptoms requiring a resync though, does it say anything useful on the dash? Other than that what about the crank position sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Everything reconnected in the correct order? Crank sensor connected? HT leads on in the right order, etc. etc.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 if the crank position sensor is the green plug at the back of the eingine, then yes. it is connected. firing order.. gonna take the coil pack off and recheck it. im hoping its something simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 is there ANYTHING at all disconnected? go over the whole engine. is it producing a decent spark to start with? again check the leads are not only in the correct order but also in properly connected both ends, check the coil/coils/coil packs for a supply voltage and check their earths Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 no as far as i can see nothing is disconnected. yes it is producing a decent spark. as far as i can tell they are properly connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 is it trying to fire? while turning it over, pull one plug at a time and listen for a difference in sound. if the sound changes, the cylinder is firing, or at least trying to, if there is no sound change, then that is your problem cylinder(s) dont grab a lead while turning over though it hurts a little with 30+000 volts going up your arm sounds dumb but have you got the correct firing order, but mirrored, i.e. on the opposite banks? have you took any plugs out to see if they are wet, i.e. fuel is getting to them all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Are the injectors connected in the right order? I don't know what injection sequence or how many banks it uses, but this could give lumpy running as the mixture will be slightly different between the cylinders? Just a thought! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Fuel pump, fuel regulator, relay, crash cutoff switch, fuses, airflow meter, all pipes, hoses, sensors connected correctly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Success! went down the workshop. turned key and away she went. but its getting rather warm. just before the red. and coolant boiling in the header tank. so could y'all help me with the correct way to bleed the cooling system and the most common reason for overheating? ta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Might have had an airlock in the fuel lines ? Cooling system should bleed itself, provided the coolant is kept topped up. Ignition timing can cause overheating, but more likely to be head gaskets or cylinder liners Im afraid I hope for your sake I am wrong though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 not gonna be the liners or h/g. just done them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie_grieve Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 As said above, it should bleed itself, if not then take the cap off the expansion tank when it's cold and have someone run the engine at a fast idle as you top it up. A stuck thermostat would be a likely candidate if it's running OK, stick it in a pot of water and bring it to the boil. It should be opening by 80C and fully open before boiling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 well i think ive sorted it. it would not bleed. someone has already taken the thermostat out, so i pulled the top hose off at the rad end and poured coolant down it until full. re attached, then res cap off, top up, run for 20mins @2k rpm, and then went for a drive. temp gauge 1/2 way up. i is happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 thanks for the assist, all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 spoke too soon. was fine driving around town and short runs on a roads but as soon as i get on a dual carriageway.... up the gauge goes. could it be the water pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Blocked radiator, either internal or external. When it's hot switch off and run your hand over the rad' surface, it should be uniformly hot, any cold spots indicate a blockage. Did you put a thermostat in it? It needs one to provide a restriction to enable correct coolant flow in the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 externally the rad looks good, much newer than the truck infact. will check for cold spots tomorrow. no i didnt put a stat in and here comes the stupid question... where IS the thermostat on these? i keep reading references to the top hose mounting to the manifold area, and there isnt one there. but then i see references to this pic and i have no idea where that would be or even if it exists.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Have you bought the Haynes anual for it? If not then get one and then find a RAVE link or buy a CD, I bought one for the D1 and it has more info than I will ever need and has been a great help in tracking down stupidly simple problem parts and jobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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