reb78 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 My bulkhead on the 110 will need attention next spring. It will need: the top corners http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/BT3575.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3575/Products/001 Both lower door pillars http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/BT3575.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3575/Products/047 and the lower feet http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/BT3575.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3575/Products/049/SubProducts/049-0001 This comes to ~£100 from YRM. I might do the footwells at the same time as i;d have the wings off anyway - both would add another £40 in parts - although i might be able to make these as they are less complicated than the pillars. My options seem to be: 1. Repair in situ (removing the doors and wings for access) 2. Remove and repair 3. Replace with a galv version - ~£800 4. Replace with a repaired version that has been shotblasted and primed (~£600 looking around ebay). What would you do? What have you done? And, what wouldn't you do again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 If you're removing and repairing (option 2) what about adding "...then galvanise it"? That would be my choice if you've got the skills & time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 You've missed some important information out Richard. How much money do you have? How much time do you have? How long can you afford for the 110 to be off the road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 If you're removing and repairing (option 2) what about adding "...then galvanise it"? That would be my choice if you've got the skills & time. Good point. That would make more sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I bought a second hand TD5 bulkhead for mine which had been galvanised off ebay, mine was problem free and was quite cheap (relatively speaking, cost £385). If you're not desperate for one now, might just be worth keeping an eye out for one My personal opinion whatever option you choose is hard work and whichever option you take a galvanism finish should be the target! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 You've missed some important information out Richard. How much money do you have? How much time do you have? How long can you afford for the 110 to be off the road? Money wise, I could buy a galv one ready to go on, but that does take some of the 'enjoyment' (?) out of it for me! I've got a MIG and kinda want things to use it on. The 110 can be off the road - have the BMW for when the 110 or disco aren't running - funny thing is, although its the quietest, fastest and most economical vehicle we have, we only really use it when one of the landies is off the road for work! Time wise, if the 110 is off the road, i spend evenings on the longer days working on it (don't have a barn/garage that will fit the 110 though so this is weather dependent). My thoughts are that at some point the 110 will need a new chassis - not for some time though as the one in it is pretty good (although i've put a few plates on it + crossmember), but I do see it as inevitable at some time in the vehicles life. For that reason, I kind of lean towards number 1 - repair on the vehicle for now - and then option 2 or 4 at whatever time a full strip down for a chassis change occurs. Is it a real pain to do these repairs properly in situ though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 If I were to do it in situ you have 1 major upside, you can use the car as a Jig when you do the posts, that way you are guaranteed for it to fit when you re-assemble. The downside is doing a proper job on the footwell will be difficult with the engine / pedals in the way, but that depends how comprehensive you are being. But as you say if you plan to do a rebuild in say 5/10 years then maybe a decent repair will be all it needs for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Some stuff is OK in situ, I did the upper corners on the 127 recently but even then it's a bit of a faff with the windscreen on, I couldn't properly eradicate all the rust as I'd have liked to. IMHO if you possibly can end up with a galv bulkhead one way or another that's got to be the best answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 For repairs in situ have a look at the work MickeyW is doing on his 110, he has a thread on here somewhere. If you enjoy the work then there's no reason not to do it yourself, at least that way you know all the compromises that have been made .... if you just buy someone elses galv'd bulkhead you don't know how good it was before the galv went on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I replaced my bulkhead on the grounds that it was too far gone to economically repair. I bought a secondhand 300tdi bulkhead for £300 and did some minor repairs before seam sealing it and painting it. It took about 5 weeks of evenings and the occaisional Sunday. I was prepping the new bulkhead at the same time as stripping off the old one so time could be saved there. I also resisted mission creep as much as possible and only replaced what I had set out to do I don't keep receipts generally so can't offer a proper total, but adding it up at the time costs came to almost £1000 by the time I had finished. I replaced every seal I disturbed and the cost of these soon adds up. All new fixings were used too. When I rechassis at some future time I'll assess the condition of the bulkhead then, but I'll probably go galv next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I don't keep receipts generally so can't offer a proper total, but adding it up at the time costs came to almost £1000 by the time I had finished. Potentially £1000 on a non-galved bulkhead! I almost want to cry on your behalf! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I got a repaired and galv'd one from ghound for around £500. Fantastic work and haven't looked back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I'd get a just-needs-spraying replacement one [galvanised or not according to personal taste and wealth] rather than repair the existing one. It'll be much quicker/easier to achieve a good result. If you do try a repair, as soon as you attack the old rusty one with the power-saw I can guarantee that you'll find the rot is much-more-extensive than you first thought. Definitely wouldn't try an in-situ repair unless the damage is trivial. It's much easier to work on parts that aren't still attached to the vehicle. Grinder-sparks, welding-spelter and subsequent overspray will always manage to reach parts of the vehicle you thought were well out-of-range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Grinder sparks on glass are an absolute bu&&er, I haven't yet found a way to remove them other than replace the glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 hmmmmmmm. All good points. Maybe I buy one to repair in the garage over the winter and then get it galved ready to fit in the spring. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Smart choice, you could see the 110 only being off the road for a weekend then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I bought a resonable one got it shot blasted to reveal any rust holes, repaired it and and then got it Galved, worked out a lot cheaper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Grinder sparks on glass are an absolute bu&&er, I haven't yet found a way to remove them other than replace the glass. I've also seen them melt their way into paint and primer: you only subsequently notice them when the rain washes the dust off and leaves behind an eruption of tiny little dots of rust from the embedded metal-fragments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sighnbox Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 What about remove and blast then repair then get it galvo dipped. Ash tree land rovers will do a bulk head for OCHHH just looked £800 oh sorry that's them supplying one....no price to do your own but I know they do it ...what about the YRM stainless foot wells as well .....My policy is do it once do it right end of it......Says the man who put all brand new genuine landy doors on 7 years ago loads paint cavity waxed the insides and guess what .............I was a beat down man for a few weeks but ...I'm not giving up and yes it will be all new doors again and re spray again.......unsure yet all metal doors ..or galvo frames with alli skin glued on...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim1 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I was lucky got one of ebay for £50, its being shot blasted at present £60, then goes for repair not sure what that will cost yet but rust wise it don't look to bad, last thing will be galvanised then painted and fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I put new corners, footwells a-pillars and feet on my bulkhead. Thought I was doing the right thing doing it all on the chassis and using datum points for refitting, only to discover once transferred onto the new chassis that the old ones' front outrigger and a-post were out of line due to rot and a whack on that side...countless hours of welding and grinding up the swanny. I still have this one and will drill the spots and rejig it using the other one for measurements. After the above setback I sourced a td5 one requiring a 1" patch to the footwell, got it blasted for £30 and galved for £60. Most annoyng thing was retapping the holes and drilling out the hinges for the flaps. At one point I did consider the ashtree one but at £1k it's a lot of money... If you have the time and patience then do it yourself, just make sure it's all lined up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I've got the same to do for all three of my series. I'm going to build a jig frame from the spare, rebuild it, and then send it for galv. Build it up, swap it over for an existing one, then do it all over again with the one just removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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