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Waxoyl - yes or no?


boaterboy

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I am considering having my 52 reg Discovery 2 Waxoyled.

I would have it applied professionally as I'm unable to do this myself.

It's in good shape underneath although showing the usual surface rust.

What are the pluses and minuses of having this age / condition of vehicle Waxoyled?

What experiences do members have of the benefits or otherwise, please?

I have visions of the surface rust being covered over and carrying on corroding the metal out of sight - or maybe I've got this wrong?

Finally, should the recommendations say 'go ahead' - the names of any West of England appliers of the Waxoyl would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for your help, in anticipation.

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While it doesn't answer your question directly, the Discovery I had until recently had been waxoyled (I think from new?). It was is better condition than the one I recently bought in terms of chassis rust, but only a little. I bet it makes a difference, but I don't think its a miracle cure. It does look nice though, a nice black chassis etc. rather than a brown one!

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Unless you want to be replacing it within the next 3-5yrs then waxoyl away, Rust Buster in Hertfordshire are a company I recommend, Nene Overland has jumped on the band wagn doing it too and as usual with them, they do a good job no matter what they seem to touch although you do pay for it mind!!! Stay away from Barry Chuckle over at Before'n'After, same price for less than half the quality of workmanship from a great many accounts.

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I wouldn't bother with Waxoil as a brand - it no longer lasts or protects like it did.I have been very disappointed with it in the last couple of years.Recently I have been using Dinitrol 4941 instead,this seems to be a much tougher product,yet still remains flexible when dry.Not cheap though...

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I wouldn't bother with Waxoil as a brand

I've had the same suspicion for a few years now. My 41yo RR has a perfect chassis, and was obviously waxoyled most of it's life. I bought a tin to maintain it, and the new stuff is visibly thinner than what was already being used.

So yes, for sure Waxoyl it, but up to you which brand you use. If you search you'll find talk of creating your own my mixing oils/treatments and regardless, treatments can be brushed on, but that obviously doesn't work for the inside of the chassis.

Tell whoever you get to remove the rear bumper and to give the rear chassis special attention. They should spray plenty as far inside the rails as they can get. Then when they think they've sprayed enough... spray some more in ;)

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hi i would use dynax have a look at it really smelly stuff but vv good results ,im not sure who would apply tho i would steam clean it first tho then see what youve got , if its not too bad just a long weekend wire brushing it down and give it either dinitrol or dynax :i-m_so_happy:

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I've had some good experiences with waxoyle (Ooo errr) and its stuck to my struck pretty well for the past few years, but as hinted to before you need a really well prepped surface for it to last anything longer than a season. Last time I used some Tetroseal - really messy and had to paint it on, but I was much more impressed with its ability to deal with a less treated surface, much harder wearing too.

After doing a LOT of work on Discoveries, whatever Land Rover used as there under body sealant was a many nails in its coffin if you ask me, the stuff was almost like a plastic coating and in effect it "Tank" sealed it from the outside, which may seem a good idea, but what it does is then any water that gets into any weld seams just sits and causes a HUGE problem, so I'm a little weary to what I apply to my trucks, waxoyle seems to be good in the way that if there is water behind it then it comes away allowing you to then deal with the issue rather than trapping the water and keeping it out of sight...

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After doing a LOT of work on Discoveries, whatever Land Rover used as there under body sealant was a many nails in its coffin if you ask me, the stuff was almost like a plastic coating and in effect it "Tank" sealed it from the outside, which may seem a good idea, but what it does is then any water that gets into any weld seams just sits and causes a HUGE problem, so I'm a little weary to what I apply to my trucks, waxoyle seems to be good in the way that if there is water behind it then it comes away allowing you to then deal with the issue rather than trapping the water and keeping it out of sight...

This has always been my big worry with sealers/under sealers and because waxoyl is generally easy to come by I've used it quite a lot. Chassis seems ok on the 110. I think a Schutz gun and several applications is useful otherwise it's easy to get it too thin. Need to finish off touching up both land rovers before the winter really.
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well ive just bought shultz grey with a small compressor really good result need couple of coats tho even on the chassis and ontop of that ive hammerited the chassis silver .

The same as on my mates landrover race car its been on there 10 years a BIT OF FLAKING HERE AND THERE but its a race car and waxoil the rest hope this helps

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No mate, it spent it's first 33 years in the UK, and in the north west as far as I know. They are salting the roads in certain areas here these days, have been for years, it's just not a routine thing. I was on the M50 yesterday and noticed a council compound with gritting machines in the yard. I don't know about the rest of the country but the Co.Co. here (Meath) have a map of the gritting routes in the county. Comes right past my door here of course.

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Thank you all for taking the time to help - your input is greatly appreciated.

As I imagined, there is no definitive answer to such a question and in making up my mind I'll try and relate my situation to those described by yourselves.

One thing that does concern me is how an applier of any treatment gets the vehicle thoroughly dry - particularly in the box sections?

Maybe this is a job for a dry summer period?

Incidentally, has anyone heard of / used Chelade made by Chemsearch in the US?

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It is a lot easier in the warmer,dry summer... I have a 300 TDI Disco on my ramp that I'm going to do with Dinitrol this afternoon.Its been up on the ramp with the workshop woodburner going well.Dried out nicely,Spray this afternoon,dry for the customer by Monday morning,ready to go.

Sorry,not heard of the Chelade

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Not really my line of business,diagnostics is more my thing.The car I've done is for an old school friend,so sort of obliged to do it.Before the treatment I had to weld in a new rh inner wing and repair a large hole in the drivers side floor.I'm going to lose a huge amount on it as I don't feel able to charge him properly for all the time I've spent on it.

As long as the car is not actually rusty,£4-500 plus vat should do a nice job - But if you really want it done well - do it yourself.I spent 4 days,cleaning,wire brushing,soft pad grinding and then undercoating and painting the chassis on my own DII.Then I waxoiled it.There is no way that was commercial,but I want to keep the car for a long time. The really annoying thing is that most of the waxoil has fallen off,so it needs doing again.It will be Dinitrol 4941 this time...

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Ally V8 - From the manner of your earlier reply I thought you might run a business specialising in the application underbody treatments. Thank you for all of your comments.

All - Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question.

On balance, I'm tending to come down on the side of Dinitrol.

Has anyone had any experience of Bartlett Motor Technicians of Weymouth, Dorset or Moores Motorcars of Clevedon, Somerset?

Both the above are listed as treatment centres (South Region) on the Dinitrol website.

Many thanks for your ongoing help, in anticipation.

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